2001 Boxster Camshaft issues

[blue62]

Originally Posted by kbod

I specifically remember when I took apart the camshaft tensioner, I used white nail polish on the dimple on the gear and its corresponding chain link. when i put it back together It all lined up with my paint marks. I did notice that my ims locking took does have a bit of play even when it is "locked" which is why I want to just adjust my camshaft a tad, I just don't know if i should nudge it clock wise or counter clock wise, do my deviations say what direction it is off in?

deviations are usually stated in positive or negative form.
So I would think advanced would be positive and retarded negative.

I just did a little reading on how the cam timing is set up on these engines.
I see where your going with the attempt to "adjust the cams, makes sense.
If your cams have the four bolt setup on the sprocket, timing could have "slipped there at some point.
You just have to figure out which direction to go.

Keep us posted on the results.

[kbod]

Originally Posted by blue62

deviations are usually stated in positive or negative form.
So I would think advanced would be positive and retarded negative.

I just did a little reading on how the cam timing is set up on these engines.
I see where your going with the attempt to "adjust the cams, makes sense.
If your cams have the four bolt setup on the sprocket, timing could have "slipped there at some point.
You just have to figure out which direction to go.

Keep us posted on the results.

Went back and spent 5 hours adjusting the timing yet again. when i started the car it sounded really good but after 20 seconds... yep. back to bad. I took it on a drive and it settled in at 7.4 for deviation 1 and -6.5 for deviation 2, both variocam actuators are doing their job aswell at -.29 for bank 1 and .09 for bank 2 actual values at idle. the biggest thing is when i take it on a test drive if i hit the brakes hard when the car comes to a stop it dies, I have to slow down sooooo gently then the idle drops really low and shoots up to keep the car allive. checked the codes, same 123 missfire and p1341

wow this car really doesn't want to work :/

[blue62]

Originally Posted by kbod

Went back and spent 5 hours adjusting the timing yet again. when i started the car it sounded really good but after 20 seconds... yep. back to bad. I took it on a drive and it settled in at 7.4 for deviation 1 and -6.5 for deviation 2, both variocam actuators are doing their job aswell at -.29 for bank 1 and .09 for bank 2 actual values at idle. the biggest thing is when i take it on a test drive if i hit the brakes hard when the car comes to a stop it dies, I have to slow down sooooo gently then the idle drops really low and shoots up to keep the car allive. checked the codes, same 123 missfire and p1341

wow this car really doesn't want to work :/

You have the cam deviation on bank 1 down interesting that it still throws the code and missfires.

[kbod]

Originally Posted by blue62

You have the cam deviation on bank 1 down interesting that it still throws the code and missfires.

Is it time for a smoke test? Or maybe the fuel tank vent valve is shot which is causing the gas station fill up issues and the stalling at red light issue? to which my concern is. If my fuel tank vent valve was bad, wouldn't driving the car without a gas cap allow for it to "vent" and run right or would the siphon prevention valve still seal the tank off. I am running out of things to replace and go over. One thing I will add is that before I replaced the variocam solenoid/actuator, the car would run perfect, but after I took it past 3,000 rpm it would idle bad since the variocam actuator would stick. but now it doesn't stick and the car always runs like crap below 1k rpm... why does the car still run so bad?

[blue62]

Originally Posted by kbod

Is it time for a smoke test? Or maybe the fuel tank vent valve is shot which is causing the gas station fill up issues and the stalling at red light issue? to which my concern is. If my fuel tank vent valve was bad, wouldn't driving the car without a gas cap allow for it to "vent" and run right or would the siphon prevention valve still seal the tank off. I am running out of things to replace and go over. One thing I will add is that before I replaced the variocam solenoid/actuator, the car would run perfect, but after I took it past 3,000 rpm it would idle bad since the variocam actuator would stick. but now it doesn't stick and the car always runs like crap below 1k rpm... why does the car still run so bad?

I would think that your issues with the EVAP system contribute to your stalling issues.
I am not schooled on all aspects of EVAP system operation but I do know it is constantly testing for vacuum integrity. It looks like a simple system but access to all the hoses and parts looks like a PITA.

If you are still throwing the P1341 code then something is still off with the timing.
If the car ran well below 3000 RPM before the actuator change out and now it does not. Then something is not right with the cam timing, the actuator, sensor or the DME/ECU.

Your timing code issue is a big issue perhaps you need a fresh set of eyes on the issue. Cam timing affects vacuum, fuel mileage, idle, power, and is most likely the cause of the miss fire codes.
I will have a friend who is also a car nut look at an issue when I am stumped just to get fresh eyes on the issue. Sometimes he sees something that I missed or just didn't see as set up wrong.

Another thing is in your posts you have mentioned that most of the SAI hoses were toast or not hooked up.
The hard starting at fill up.
The sticking actuator.
So it sounds like the car was not maintained well and that you have multiple issues in various systems.
Sorry I am not more help

[Gilles]

I believe that tonight, Tony Callas will be doing a "how to find vacuum leaks" this may ne of interest to you

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLKNhSePDKmOzZyk3PWKu8OfQkDW2RmFSH

Good luck troubleshooting and fixing your car!

[kbod]

Originally Posted by blue62

I would think that your issues with the EVAP system contribute to your stalling issues.
I am not schooled on all aspects of EVAP system operation but I do know it is constantly testing for vacuum integrity. It looks like a simple system but access to all the hoses and parts looks like a PITA.

If you are still throwing the P1341 code then something is still off with the timing.
If the car ran well below 3000 RPM before the actuator change out and now it does not. Then something is not right with the cam timing, the actuator, sensor or the DME/ECU.

Your timing code issue is a big issue perhaps you need a fresh set of eyes on the issue. Cam timing affects vacuum, fuel mileage, idle, power, and is most likely the cause of the miss fire codes.
I will have a friend who is also a car nut look at an issue when I am stumped just to get fresh eyes on the issue. Sometimes he sees something that I missed or just didn't see as set up wrong.

Another thing is in your posts you have mentioned that most of the SAI hoses were toast or not hooked up.
The hard starting at fill up.
The sticking actuator.
So it sounds like the car was not maintained well and that you have multiple issues in various systems.
Sorry I am not more help

I went back again and changed the timing. we are now at -0.36 for camshaft position 1 deviation, and -6.22 for camshaft position 2 deviation. When I first started the car the actual angle for camshaft bank 1 was 0.37 and the actual angle for bank 2 was 7 degrees but after i drove the car they both would switch to 22-24 once variocam engaged, and would go back to 0 at idle. but now the car is significantly worse at idle, and it stalls at every single stop light no matter what. It stalls even when I'm moving if I'm not going fast enough.


Yes the car was obviously neglected and sat for years before I bought it. poor little thingy has a million billion issues, its power seats don't work, convertible top gears don't work, drivers door lock don't work, paint is faded... cv axles are done..... I am going to order a smoke tester and test the vacuum system for air leaks next. as far as codes its the same p1341. For the evap system what should I order and replace first to get started ruling pieces out? It must be something significant Because the car idles like a muscle car with a cam.

[blue62]

Originally Posted by kbod

I went back again and changed the timing. we are now at -0.36 for camshaft position 1 deviation, and -6.22 for camshaft position 2 deviation. When I first started the car the actual angle for camshaft bank 1 was 0.37 and the actual angle for bank 2 was 7 degrees but after i drove the car they both would switch to 22-24 once variocam engaged, and would go back to 0 at idle. but now the car is significantly worse at idle, and it stalls at every single stop light no matter what. It stalls even when I'm moving if I'm not going fast enough.


Yes the car was obviously neglected and sat for years before I bought it. poor little thingy has a million billion issues, its power seats don't work, convertible top gears don't work, drivers door lock don't work, paint is faded... cv axles are done..... I am going to order a smoke tester and test the vacuum system for air leaks next. as far as codes its the same p1341. For the evap system what should I order and replace first to get started ruling pieces out? It must be something significant Because the car idles like a muscle car with a cam.

For the EVAP system from what I have seen it sounds like the purge vale has an issue.
Watch the video that Gilles mentioned in post 43 he explains what happens in that video.
How does it run at higher RPM????