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I am not schooled on all aspects of EVAP system operation but I do know it is constantly testing for vacuum integrity. It looks like a simple system but access to all the hoses and parts looks like a PITA. If you are still throwing the P1341 code then something is still off with the timing. If the car ran well below 3000 RPM before the actuator change out and now it does not. Then something is not right with the cam timing, the actuator, sensor or the DME/ECU. Your timing code issue is a big issue perhaps you need a fresh set of eyes on the issue. Cam timing affects vacuum, fuel mileage, idle, power, and is most likely the cause of the miss fire codes. I will have a friend who is also a car nut look at an issue when I am stumped just to get fresh eyes on the issue. Sometimes he sees something that I missed or just didn't see as set up wrong. Another thing is in your posts you have mentioned that most of the SAI hoses were toast or not hooked up. The hard starting at fill up. The sticking actuator. So it sounds like the car was not maintained well and that you have multiple issues in various systems. Sorry I am not more help:( |
Vacuum leaks
I believe that tonight, Tony Callas will be doing a "how to find vacuum leaks" this may ne of interest to you
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLKNhSePDKmOzZyk3PWKu8OfQkDW2RmFSH Good luck troubleshooting and fixing your car! |
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Yes the car was obviously neglected and sat for years before I bought it. poor little thingy has a million billion issues, its power seats don't work, convertible top gears don't work, drivers door lock don't work, paint is faded... cv axles are done..... I am going to order a smoke tester and test the vacuum system for air leaks next. as far as codes its the same p1341. For the evap system what should I order and replace first to get started ruling pieces out? It must be something significant Because the car idles like a muscle car with a cam. |
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Watch the video that Gilles mentioned in post 43 he explains what happens in that video. How does it run at higher RPM???? |
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Should be lots of info. Evap system problems are a somewhat common issue here on the forum. I think the tank vent valve is the one mentioned on the video that causes the hard start problem after refill. |
I know this is a totally different train of thought here, but have you checked your alternator and battery? If an alternator is bad, or the battery is shot, it can cause stalling at low rpms, even when moving.
Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk |
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The battery is brand new and the car is 24/7 on a tender and the voltages are great :/ |
How about the alternator? Any shop can check it for you. If an alternator is going bad it may not crank out enough amperage to support the car at idle, hence the rough running or even stalling. Even with a perfect battery this can happen. This happened to my wife's escalade while we were moving across country - the extra load on the air shocks while towing tipped the balance and if she slowed below 1500rpm the car would stall. We even bought a new battery on the road...it bought us a few hundred miles and then she stalled. We were able to limp along and finally made it - new alternator a week later (along with the leaking air struts that caused the demand) and problem solved.
It very well may not be this, but I would at least check this before dropping the engine. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk |
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Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk |
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If I could throw in my 2 cents. I would not drop the engine until I checked/replaced the canister purge valve and or canister purge solenoid. On most setups there are normally closed valves. When they stick open and you fill your tank it pushes all those vapors from your tank to your intake. Will cause engine to run rich due to the unmeasured hydrocarbons in the combustion process. O2’s will pick up on that in closed loop and try to cut injector pulse width to compensate. Thus running ****************ty after car is in fuel control (closed loop). Probably why it doesn’t run like crap for the first 30-60 seconds depending on how long o2’s take to warm up.
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I just saw this thread. For what it’s worth, I’ve been fighting the P1341 CEL code for nearly a year. No luck. Am told bank one is off 6 degrees. Yet the car runs perfectly. Surprisingly (to me), it has passed CA smog test twice in the last year. I have the CEL cleared at a Porsche shop and they take it to the smog station. Evidently the test itself does not create the conditions to throw the CEL. But both times, within 30mins of picking up the car at the shop, the 1341 CEL comes back. I’ve decided to just live with it. I know it has little resale value now so I will just drive it until something breaks that I don’t want to pay to fix. Kind of liberating actually. I don’t worry about the car as I had with my old 911’s. And I hate to admit it, but the 986 is actually more fun to drive than my 70’s 911 cars. Good luck with your car. I’ll be watching for updates.
Below is the 1341 thread, which you’ve probably seen. http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/78167-variocam-thoughts-questions.html |
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