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Hook it up and see what you can do with it. You got it with the Porsche program right? If it is in fact a 510 it will do everything mine does. |
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1341 cel
I am still driving my car until I reach the 1000 mile mark, then the Pcar shop is going to do an engine flush in the hopes of clearing a potential clogged oil gallery that feeds the cam actuator. In the meantime I’m seeing a definite pattern to when the 1341 CEL is thrown. After ~36miles, then I clear the code. It can happen sooner in heavy traffic. But never more than 36 miles, so far. Does That make sense? There must be an algorithm for what activates the Cam timing error code that involves time or miles, huh?
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My guess and it's just that, a guess. Is that a sensor like the cam position sensor has a limit (voltage level) that the DME/ECU sees. when it hits that limit the code is set. Or the voltage level is far enough out of spec. that the DME/ECU sees it and triggers the code. I do know that on an O2 sensor when the signal response time slows down to a certain point that the DME/ECU has a response time limit that when hit it triggers a O2 sensor aging code. I found that info in some literature put out by Bosh. Bosh developed and produced the DME/ECU in our cars So I think everything (when it comes to codes being set) is either signal response time or voltage level related as far as the sensors are concerned. Hope that makes sense. Remember that's just a guess |
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So now the shop I’ve been taking the car to, wants to do an engine flush to see if it can clear an oil gallery feeding the actuator. Seems like a Hail Mary, but I guess I’ll do it. Am still convinced the problem is the green o-rings have disintegrated and may have clogged a gallery, who knows? But when I start the car now, I often hear the clatter of the timing chains for about 2-3 secs until the oil pressure comes up. Tells me the engine is not gonna last a long time. So here is my question. Would I be well served to run a heavier engine oil? The shop has been using Swepco at $16/quart. I baby this car for the most part, don’t need a high performance oil. Was going to ask the shop to just fill it with Mobile 1 at maybe a 40 weight? Might improve the starting clatter? Unless the engine flush miraculously cures the oil pressure problem in the actuator, I figure to drive it until the car dies. Oddly enough, it’ll probably pass smog tests, as it did last month. And as of now, despite the CEL, it runs great. |
I don't have an answer to your latest question.
But I am very interested in the outcome of your engine flush. Keep us posted. |
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This was another $450 procedure after a $1000 solenoid replacement procedure which again, resulted in absolutely no change. I should just let it go, and drive the car until the next disaster then scrap it. It just runs so great and a perfect car for me now. But after all this, now I am annoyed. I’ve had my doubts about this shop all along. So now think I will try to find the best Boxster shop in NorCal. I know S Car Go Racing cannot be it. To get some fresh eyes on the problem. If anyone reading this knows of a shop in NorCal, I’d love to hear about it. |
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Sorry for the bad news. Did you get the alleged faulty solenoid back?
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Another annoyance was that I was never able to get the old solenoid from S Car Go, despite my documented request to receive all parts, made prior to work beginning. They “forgot”. Was thinking of giving S Car Go a chance to make it right tho. Explaining all this to them. At least asking them to Cover the costs to R/R the valve cover. That cost is nearly $1000 alone in these shops. Or should I just have Modderman Porsche do the job and go the Better Business Bureau route to reclaim some of my loses? |
I would give them the chance to refund some of the $$,.If you don't get the parts you requested ( I forgot ) isn't your problem,.so I think you should be compensated, I know modern engines can be difficult to diagnose but that's their world I'am not sure why they would charge you 500.00 to clean your engine,( seems a bit greedy).But that solenoid should have been in the trunk !
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There is a writeup and good pictures on the pelican parts site that should be of help. Looks like once the cam cover is off that there are two bolts holding the solenoid in place. |
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Also if the old part is gone,the receipt for the new part should be available a profit for service is fine..a profit for ripping...is not..
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This is the end of the saga for now am afraid. I made a mistake (again) with interpreting a diagnosis. This time from Modermann in Palo Alto. I thought “Needs adjustment, that’s all” (my words, not theirs) was a straightforward procedure. Like adjusting valves. I learned later it means, pull the cam cover off then start looking for the problem. Which can range from an additional $500 to $4-5k. And since there are no symptoms suggesting tensioner or chain rails, the problem is likely on the more expensive end. Decided I am just going to drive it until it requires a smog cert. And since it just passed smog after S Car Go cleared the CEL, maybe it will again next year. If not, sell as is for peanuts.
In the meantime, the car starts and runs beautifully. Tho the cams being 6deg off, I expect the engine must not be too happy. And staring at the CEL lit up is annoying. |
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Reviving the vario cam discuss
Thought I’d update my 1341 CEL issue. After spending nearly $2k trying to solve the issue, I gave up. Either I can smog the car for another 2 years or I sell as a parts car. I’ve been driving the car nearly daily since I last chimed in. The car still runs beautifully despite one cam 6 degrees off. The CEL is thrown in exactly the same pattern. Only when the car is fully warmed up and only during City driving. I can still jump on the freeway and drive to LA without throwing the CEL.
As it turns out, I need another CA smog cert this April. The plan is to return to S Car Go in San Rafael. They got the car smogged last spring. Evidently, the smog test itself does not trigger a CEL. The shop obviously can clear the CEL and set the drive cycle readings. So am hoping it’ll still pass. Finally, I am really amazed the car can run so well with the cam timing so far off. Wouldn’t being off by 6 degrees cause a symptom? Backfiring? Performance issues? |
The shop got my car to pass smog! And I am heading out in a few minutes to receive my 2nd Covid vaccination. It’s been a very good day.
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Congrats! For both! :cheers:
If the car works fine and passed smog then I guess you can just keep using it as is. Maybe it needs just a slight adjustment at the cam sprocket and no need to move the chains around... Did Modderman say anything specific about the required repair? |
Thanks!
The car runs great. I guess the cam adjusts too slowly and throws the CEL. I assume the nature of the smog test doesn’t test for the rate of timing adjustment. I think the car sits on rollers and the exhaust is measured at idle and at a high rpm. So yeah, in theory, I can drive it as long as I want. But in the end, it is still essentially a parts car. I am coming around to it tho. Liberating, really. I don’t worry about it like I did with the 911s I’ve owned. It’s kinda nice. Modderman thought it prob needed to be torn down. If it had been a 911, I’d have done it. But a 20yr old 2.7 Boxster, it didn’t make sense. |
Low engine temp effecting CEL?
As described below, I’ve had a 1341 CEL issue for over a year. Exhaust cam timing. The interesting part is that the car always runs great. And if the CEL is fully cleared with the Porsche Durametric scanner, it will pass CA smog (I’ve done it twice).
I put in a low temp thermostat a few months ago. The car def runs cooler unless in traffic on a hot day. Then it runs as it had with the stock 185 thermostat. But it appears running cooler seems to effect the 1341 CEL. I have a cheap scanner and periodically clear the CEL when I annoys me. With the lower temps tho, the CEL isn’t thrown so quickly. I can go weeks now and it was days before. But now, if I leave the CEL on, the computer clears it once in a while. I assume it’s because the vario cam works better with a cooler motor? Anyway, weird. |
We have installed literally hundreds of low temp thermostats in these cars; to date, not one has thrown a code associated with the lower temperature thermostat. Your problem lies elsewhere.......
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Any idea why the CEL would be clearing on its own? Is it documented anywhere what the 1341 CEL algorithm might be? What sets it off? How many degrees off, at normal engine temp, and maybe the number of times it has to happen? Over a period of time maybe? |
Hate to tell you but it's time for the cam actuator & pads to be replaced...at a minimum.
There isn't an adjustment you can make on it. You adjust the timing which is either in time or it isnt. |
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Each issue or code has it's own number of non occurrences before resetting the CEL. Sorry I don't know the algorithm for the 1341 to set. Most issues that are not immediately harmful to the Catylitic converter's have to happen twice or back to back over two drive cycles. On the first occurrence the code is set in the pending area of memory. If the issue happens again on the next drive cycle that code is moved to the permanent area of memory and the CEL is set. Issues that are immediately harmful to the cats like misfires set the CEL on the first occurrence. That's my limited understanding of how it works. |
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