Brake wear and ABS light

[Luckyman01]

After refreshing struts and all suspension parts, these two lights have stayed on, I was able to turn off other lights, however not these two. Does anyone have the solution?

[Stl-986]

did you check to make sure you have the connectors connected at the wheels?

[PLP]

or if they are plugged in into the correct holes...

I did not check when I was doing mine, but is it possible to swap them?

[Jasper7821]

Originally Posted by Luckyman01

After refreshing struts and all suspension parts, these two lights have stayed on, I was able to turn off other lights, however not these two. Does anyone have the solution?

I have a 2001 S and my lights are on too. Actually I got the pad wear light to go off. I had an accident and broke the hub carrier and a bunch of other stuff. The ABS and pad wear can't be plugged into the opposite.
I rented a Durametric Pro and found out that it's my left rear. In my case, I think the cable by the connector on the hub carrier may have been pinched so I'm putting in another cable and hope that fixes it.

Did you unplug the plugs when you did the work? Maybe they're not pushed in all the way.

[Stl-986]

No, they are keyed so you can only put the right connector in the right plug. At least, they are from the factory.

[Huey]

Originally Posted by Stl-986

No, they are keyed so you can only put the right connector in the right plug. At least, they are from the factory.

It depends on the year. On my 99 it is possible to have them reversed. The plugs are the same physical size but the wire connectors inside are keyed differently. So it’s possible to have them in the wrong holes and not realize it. It’s also possible to have them in the correct holes but not pushed in all the way.

[PLP]

Yeah, when I was putting them back on I looked.
No way to swap them. Idiot proof.

On 2003 - is it OEM or not.... looks original, though. Yes, one could slide it in not all the way... maybe. But would be hard to clip it, I guess.

One could put 180 degree brake sensor, but that would not make any difference.


I would pull all of them out and test or at least visually inspect. There is a chance insulation of the wires got stripped somewhere and is shorting.

I just finished my whole suspension refresh and no lights are on. Yet, I know it is easy to damage the sensors if one is not careful.

[Jasper7821]

My pad wear / ABS lights are all good now. I pushed the harness more into the connector and no ABS light now. I'm still going to install the harness that's coming to me cause the light will probably come on again.
I was going to cut the shielding to see what's pinched or shorting out, but I think I'll just change the harness when the light comes on again.

[Stl-986]

If it is working I wouldn't touch it.

[78F350]

The harness for the rear brakes goes to a yellow connector that is on the left side firewall in the trunk. If you are running wires for the rear camera, this is a good time to get a look at it anyway.
Just pull the trunk liner away from the firewall and you'll see three or four large rectangular connectors together in the left corner. It's kind of a pain to get them separated and access the pins, but it is 'cleanest' way to replace the harness.
I'll try to get pics and remove the harness tonight.

[Jasper7821]

Originally Posted by 78F350

The harness for the rear brakes goes to a yellow connector that is on the left side firewall in the trunk. If you are running wires for the rear camera, this is a good time to get a look at it anyway.
Just pull the trunk liner away from the firewall and you'll see three or four large rectangular connectors together in the left corner. It's kind of a pain to get them separated and access the pins, but it is 'cleanest' way to replace the harness.
I'll try to get pics and remove the harness tonight.

Thank you, I'v been working on this car non-stop for the last few months, (thank god for Quickjack) and I think I'm just going to leave it alone until the light comes back on. Since it seems to be a pinched wire, it will probably come back on but we'll see.
I bought a de-pin kit just in case it comes back on in the future.

[Jasper7821]

Originally Posted by Stl-986

If it is working I wouldn't touch it.

it is working now, but I haven't driven it yet, it's up on the Quickjack and no more time to work on it today. I'll take for a ride in the morning and see what happens, hopefully it will stay off.
And probably tackle the bumper removal tomorrow.
It just gets so hot here in the AZ summertime, working in the garage is brutal, especially when my other car is charging and it puts out tons of heat.
I need to get a mini split for the garage.

[Stl-986]

I got mine off Ebay. One of the best "tools" I have ever bought. Keeps my garage in the mid 70's year round even where there is a foot of snow outside.

[78F350]

Glad to hear that it's off. That confirms that you won't need the durametric to reset it.

Good news/Bad news:
Bad, I started pulling the harness off my parts car and found out that the connector is cracked worse than the one I already pictured. I checked another car and there were cracks in that one too.
Good, I can still send the one that I already pictured on Monday and refund part of your money. The Right side connector on that one is in good shape, just the left side had the crack and will still be fully functional if you want it. Just let me know what you'd like to do.

Here's a pic of the trunk with the liner removed showing where the yellow plug is:

[Jasper7821]

Originally Posted by Stl-986

I got mine off Ebay. One of the best "tools" I have ever bought. Keeps my garage in the mid 70's year round even where there is a foot of snow outside.

Ya, can't wait to get one.

[Jasper7821]

Thanks, it's for sure pinched wire right by the harness like in the picture I posted. Because now I have the ABS and my pad wear lights back on. They stayed off while driving for a few minutes then came back on.
As fas as the harness, maybe best to refund me and Pelican sells a new aftermarket one for $80 and that should do it. I really don't want to use a cracked connector. i really do appreciate the photos for visuals.
And that yellow plug looks huge, isn't there only 4 wires in the harness?

Originally Posted by 78F350

Glad to hear that it's off. That confirms that you won't need the durametric to reset it.

Good news/Bad news:
Bad, I started pulling the harness off my parts car and found out that the connector is cracked worse than the one I already pictured. I checked another car and there were cracks in that one too.
Good, I can still send the one that I already pictured on Monday and refund part of your money. The Right side connector on that one is in good shape, just the left side had the crack and will still be fully functional if you want it. Just let me know what you'd like to do.

Here's a pic of the trunk with the liner removed showing where the yellow plug is:

[Stl-986]

I have a 2 ton unit for my garage, which is almost as big as my system for the house. I got a bigger unit then I needed and still spent under $800 installed. I did everything myself except the final line hookup. I did the electric back to my sub panel which I also installed myself. Called inspector out and he said it was better then some work he has seen licensed guys do.

[Jasper7821]

Originally Posted by Stl-986

I have a 2 ton unit for my garage, which is almost as big as my system for the house. I got a bigger unit then I needed and still spent under $800 installed. I did everything myself except the final line hookup. I did the electric back to my sub panel which I also installed myself. Called inspector out and he said it was better then some work he has seen licensed guys do.

Very nice, my friend sells them but only has 1 ton 110v units. Still debating on if that would be ok in this heat if the garage was opened/closed it would have to start all over again to cool and wonder how long that would take.