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Old 09-13-2019, 06:26 PM   #1
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Anything off the shelf is low grade, at best. Most are useless.

Call around to some paint shops and see what they’ll charge to spray them with automotive UV clear coat. It will last as long as the original.
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Old 09-13-2019, 07:50 PM   #2
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Anything off the shelf is low grade, at best. Most are useless.

Call around to some paint shops and see what they’ll charge to spray them with automotive UV clear coat. It will last as long as the original.
X2. I sprayed an automotive clear over my headlights over 3 years ago and they still look brand new. The front of my car gets a daily dose of Texas sun too
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Old 12-08-2019, 06:13 PM   #3
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X2. I sprayed an automotive clear over my headlights over 3 years ago and they still look brand new. The front of my car gets a daily dose of Texas sun too
Hi Woody, I'm working on a pair of headlights and when I'm finished I'm going to use this Eastwood 2k clear for the UV sealing. When I get the lenses completely clear and scratch free, should I then go back and wet sand them with 800 grit again before spraying them?
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Old 12-08-2019, 06:25 PM   #4
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Hi Woody, I'm working on a pair of headlights and when I'm finished I'm going to use this Eastwood 2k clear for the UV sealing. When I get the lenses completely clear and scratch free, should I then go back and wet sand them with 800 grit again before spraying them?
No, 800 grit would leave deep scratches. Use 2000 to 3000 grit.
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Old 12-08-2019, 06:38 PM   #5
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No, 800 grit would leave deep scratches. Use 2000 to 3000 grit.
Thanks I thought I saw 800 somewhere. If the lenses are polished after the 2000 or 3000 will they be too smooth for the clear coat to adhere?
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Old 12-08-2019, 07:21 PM   #6
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1500 or 2000 is fine. It's very important that you do very light coats and leave time for them to dry in between coats. If you put it on too heavy the clear will get spider cracks.
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Old 12-08-2019, 07:27 PM   #7
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Once you get enough light coats on, then you can start laying it on thicker so you get less orange peal.
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