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Old 06-21-2019, 08:40 AM   #1
Laminar Flow
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Question Front strut replacement, couple of questions

I'm getting ready to replace my front struts. I've researched the procedure in posts here, the 101 book, and the Bentley manual, and I have a couple of questions.

First, when I’m reinstalling the strut should I jack up the wheel carrier to compress the strut assembly before torquing the drop link/wheel carrier pinch bolt and the three top mount nuts? It seems to me pre-loading it with some weight would eliminate the possibility of “settling movement” after the front is back on the ground.

Second, I don’t think I have a lower control arm with an adjustable caster installed in the front, so do I need to mark the position of the bolt head relative to the control arm/frame to keep anything aligned when I’m re-tightening?

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Old 06-21-2019, 05:59 PM   #2
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Yes to the first (I do), and on the second, some aftermarket LCA recommend not tightening that one until the suspension is loaded with the weight of the car. The Porsche guides, Bentley etc don't say that (and I didn't the last time) (but for sure do on the inner bushing)
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Old 06-21-2019, 06:41 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by steved0x View Post
on the second, some aftermarket LCA recommend not tightening that one until the suspension is loaded with the weight of the car. The Porsche guides, Bentley etc don't say that (and I didn't the last time) (but for sure do on the inner bushing)
Okay, so I don't need to mark anything on the lower control arm bolt where it attaches to the frame to return it to the same spot. But how do I get to that bolt to tighten it while it's loaded with the weight of the car? I don't have a lift. Would having the wheels on the ground and the tires turned provide enough room? Or, use ramps maybe?

Edit: I'm assuming the inner bushing is the one at the end of the LCA where it attaches to the frame/crossmember.

Last edited by Laminar Flow; 06-21-2019 at 06:43 PM.
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Old 06-22-2019, 12:21 PM   #4
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Inner bushing is the one that attaches to the subframe and there should be a mark so you can lift that corner and load the suspension to tighten. Ramps probably, wheels on ground I doubt it. Naturally I can't find a picture that shows the notch...
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Old 06-22-2019, 06:16 PM   #5
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Haha, I’ll have to re-watch my own video. Seems to me that I preloaded the fronts on ramps.
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Old 06-22-2019, 08:20 PM   #6
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Hah! I love reading this stuff and knowing I can return for sanity check.
My thoughts (like anyone cares) is mark it. Doesn’t meaning that’s the setting but it’s a reference.

I’m looking into my front now, since I did the rear last year (rhymes) and worked some kinks out, especially the clatter from the trailing arms. I’m hearing clatter up front and I’m ready for coil overs all around, along with judicious suspension replacements for all those stupid aluminum parts with hard worn rubber.

Yeah, I’m not going racing even though the pca mag keeps trying to convince me.


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Old 06-22-2019, 08:24 PM   #7
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BTW, any comment on yellowspeed? I’m leaning towards this for coil over based on price and apparent engineering.

Don’t tell me about 4000 options being the best, because that isn’t gonna happen.


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