Otto's adventures w/2003 S
 

So I have posted a few things in the New Members forum as well as on a few other threads. I decided to start my own thread that will detail my trials and tribulations with my newly acquired 2003 S.
Just to review...
I found the car on CL in Santa Cruz. Seller was very cool. Said it had zero compression in #5, no inter mix and no metal in oil. He had recently replace the water pump, alternator, RMS, IMS w/LN ceramic unit, had the tip trans fully serviced, new axle boots, new rotors, pads, etc...I got the car for a very good price. (see Found on CL thread) The seller was really great, open and honest.
http://i65.tinypic.com/2mzlh6u.jpg

And I also scored a Hardtop from another CL seller for another great price (see CL Thread)

My Father-in-law has a shop locally and thankfully allows me to use his facility. I have some experience with wrenching, but its just a hobby. (see New member intro for my other projects). I am a middle school teacher and father of a very busy HS junior. She plays water polo and is an accomplished violinist. My hobby time is very limited.

Originally I was going to try and address the issue of cylinder #5 in car. I scoped the hole (couldn't really see much) and ran my own compression tests. #5 was indeed not pumping up. I pulled the exhaust manifold and could see the exhaust valves in their seats. The problem had to be with an intake valve..top of the head, hard to reach.
Because I was not even getting a bump on the needle during the compression test, I figured that one of the intake valves must be hung open.

It was at that time I decided to drop the motor. Because of my access to the luxuries of a repair shop, I was able to drop motor and trans together. Lots of great resources on this forum as well as books made a very intimidating job manageable.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1541363690.jpg

Once the motor was out, I could dig deeper. I pulled the cam cover and hiding behind the intake cam was the forward-most intake lifter for #5 sitting down in its bore. Kinda hard to see...
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1541364284.jpg

Off came the cams

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1541364585.jpg
...now its easier to see the deflated lifter.

Next came the cam cradle/lifter guide.....and what I was able to see with that out of the way.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1541364716.jpg

Pulling the spring out of the way...a little damage. Not bad.
http://i67.tinypic.com/2a5iwlg.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1541364744.jpg


The lifter did not want to come out the way the others did. I tried a magnet wrapped in a shop cloth and that didn't work. However, once I had the cradle off the stem, i was able to easily push it out. Must have been hung up on the stem by some of the shrapnel?

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1541365011.jpg
I tugged on the stem a little to see if it was able to slide in the guide....but nope. So, the head needed to come off.
Once off, I could see the valve had contacted the piston, but not bad.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1541365180.jpg
..and of course, the valve still hanging open...

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1541365255.jpg

So, that's where I'm at. Hope to send the head out this week for rebuild.

Any guesses as to what happened? Spring broke first, allowing the clips and retainer to migrate? Once no spring to pull valve back to seat, contact with the piston and then bent?

Nice work. Are you going to leave the piston contact alone and just have a valve job on #5 or this head and put it back together? I don't have anything constructive to offer you, other than I applaud your work and I'm curious and will be following. Please keep us posted.

Thanks for the write up. I look forward to following your work.

Yes...that's the plan. I will emery cloth the shiny spots on the piston to make sure there are no burs that can lead to hot spot detonation. They are not really bad at all.

Send the head out for machine.

I figure I should replace all the springs with new as well as a set of lifters for this bank...

Following this. Looks like a great thread!

Great job Otto,

I believe that Len Hoffman (Hoffman Automotive) always replace ALL the valve springs for the same reason, hopefully the valve was not damaged and you can assemble back the engine with only a head job.

The car looks great and you should end with a nice driver, congratulations :)

Porsches love curves....just not in their valves...
http://i65.tinypic.com/2n68zn8.jpg

The lifter guts and valve retainer and keepers did nick the lifter bore.
http://i67.tinypic.com/dc4x1t.jpghttp://i64.tinypic.com/2jfkhv6.jpg

So, I am in need of a good replacement. Not sure if its the same as the 2.7 or if 03-04 3.2 years will innerchange with other years?
Maybe someone can chime in....
Anyways, please let me know if you have one. They are on epay, but I would like to deal with a member here if possible.

You don't think a light hone and polish would dress that up?

You know, my gut says yes. Heck, I am inclined to try just lapping in a replacement valve and spring and call it good.
...but I get to reading about the 03-04's having lifter problems and being prone to breaking springs....etc
I have almost talked myself into a new set of springs and lifters for the head and 'might as well' pick up a replacement lifter carrier....

The "might-as-wells" will always get you. ;) That being said, and considering how far you've torn down (and not to mention the price you picked the car up for), to me it seems the "might-as-wells" are almost no-brainers...and far better than the "wish-I-would-haves". I try to live by "do it once and do it right", with heavy emphasis on "try". Lol.

Yeah nothing worse than trying to figure out the “how much time, effort and money” equation. I’m usually of the sort to just do it all while you can. These cars in particular. They aren’t very hard to work on, but things are hard to get to, and that’s half the battle!

So I will swallow my ego and just ask....when I was picking up after removing the head, this was lying on the ground with my tools. It had to have come from the head. Any help? Whats it called? Where does it go? Pics help the most....
http://i63.tinypic.com/qof1y0.jpg

that thing reminds me of an inline fuel filter (not FI)..

It goes into the hole in the head where the valve solenoid goes. The solenoid goes in on top of that.

Thanks....I don't have the head right now since it is in for machine so I will try and figure it out when I get it back....

I have been looking for a replacement cam follower housing and it has been interesting. No shortage on ebay, but hard to figure out which one is correct based on part number. The R in the part number apparently is not "R for Right". Most available seem to be for "right" side. The part number is actually the same for 2.7 and 3.2 from 2000-2008 and it can be for drivers or passenger side.(please correct me if anyone knows different)
With that being said, I am leaning toward cleaning mine up and using it.
http://i68.tinypic.com/29m5f2g.jpg

While waiting for the head to come back from machine, I did a 'might as well as long as its out' change of the motor mount.
http://i65.tinypic.com/r8xw04.jpg
....and finally got the head back. All new springs and a good cleaning. Can you spot the new valve?
http://i64.tinypic.com/oh24h5.jpg
http://i67.tinypic.com/a9x1qv.jpg
Wont be able to do much until after the holiday.....

I dont know why all my pics are sideways...they look right before I download. Luddite...

They don't look sideways to me. That kind of thing happens a lot.

So the holiday has come and gone and now back to the project.
The lifter bore polished up nicely so I will be reusing the old one.
I emery clothed the piston top and smoothed out the nicks. It didn't take much. Really glad the damage was so minimal. (sorry, no pics)

I am ready to mount the head back on. Regarding the mystery pic above, I know where it goes, but not sure which way it goes in. Maybe someone can chime in...

Does the metal button face out towards the cam cover (pic 1) or does the seal with yellow triangle end face out toward the cam cover? (pic 2) The later seems to fit the best but I obviously don't want to screw this up,,,,
http://i67.tinypic.com/fvd3x3.jpg
http://i64.tinypic.com/16irwpz.jpg

Picture #2 shiny side down the triangle part up.

Thanks...thats what I thought but I really appreciate your feedback.:cheers:

Just waiting on my head gaskets and a little spare time...

Had a little time to mount the head with the new gasket and new bolts.
Interesting process for those that have never done it before (me).
First you tighten, in sequence, all 12 bolts to 22 ft/lbs....and then loosen them back up. Next, you tighten them in sequence to 15 ft/lbs. Then, you use a torque angle gauge and tighten them 60* more...same sequence. Finally, you tighten each another 60*.
http://i65.tinypic.com/mvno5l.jpghttp://i68.tinypic.com/vxf5eg.jpg
I will try and get cams back in by the weekend....

.....and I got lucky at an estate sale a couple weeks ago. Have wanted a lift for a while and could not pass this up. Works great.
There was some serious redneck engineering involved in getting it home.....fully assembled....7 miles.....on the back of a 5x8 Uhaul trailer.

No tickets.
http://i68.tinypic.com/30stvvd.jpg
Should make oil changes at home much easier....

Well done sir!

Went to install the new lifters today. Brand new INA units. I could not depress them at all. My old used units could easily be 'plungered' with firm finger pressure.
Can I assume the new units are full of oil from the manufacturer and do no require pumping up on the bench?
Also, my access to shop computers wont resume until monday...does anyone have an online source for torque specs for cam follower housing, cam caps, etc?

Thanks

Big day today. Was able to finally mount the cams....twice!
http://i64.tinypic.com/1q1ova.jpg
After tinkering for a while to get the bottom/exhaust cam to seat into its drive sprocket and getting everything torqued down....I did a victory lap around the shop. Once back down to earth, I grabbed my next baggie of bolts which contained the 3x5 note card and 4 bolts. The card read "Head Bolts-3 external, one internal".

WTF? Internal?

It was at this time, he realized he ********* up.

I even remember thinking when I was tearing down...'Don't want to forget about that one'...

It was located behind the chain after it looped over the intake sprocket. The only way to get to it....undo all the progress of mounting the cams and start over.
http://i68.tinypic.com/s6qb02.jpg
The second time was much easier...probably had the whole thing done in 20 minutes.
Surprisingly little amount of torque on cam caps @ 10nm/7.5ft lbs and for the exhaust cam sprocket mounting bolts at 13nm/10.3 ft lbs...

I hate it when that happens! I always seem to forget something and have to start over. I’m glad I’m not the only one. Nice work :cheers:

Got the 4-6 bank all buttoned up and started to tear down the 1-3 side. Much quicker this time since I have the experience of doing the other side under my belt. My thinking is since the motor is out, I will replace springs and lifters on both sides as well as even up the head surface amounts.
Got all the way down to the head studs and hit a snag.
I know there is a small bolt hiding behind the upper chain guide (see earlier post for how came to know this so well). However, that chain guide did not seem to want to drop down to give me access to that bolt. I undid the rail pivot pin on the side of the head but the guide seems to hold firm. I know there is one deeper back, but I still have the transmission bolted to the motor and can not see where that pins head is accessed.
So, question for the experts....should that guide pivot downward with just the front pivot pin out? If not, where is the rear pin located?
Thanks in advance for any guidance...
This is a 3 chain motor.
http://i65.tinypic.com/b3ttds.jpg

Looked at some pics and I see what appears to be my answer....the allen-head of the rear pin just to the right and above the IMS bearing....inaccessible with the transmission still mounted.

Can someone confirm whether or not the guide will pivot with the front pin removed?

On the Twelfth day of Christmas my true love gave to me....Twelve installed new valve springs! (Ok...she didn't give those to me, but she did let me sneak down to the shop for a few hours to get them done).
Head is staying on so I just installed them myself with a valve spring compressor. Working with magnets and dental tools to place the keepers correctly all the while trying not to mar the smooth surfaces that surround the springs...
http://i64.tinypic.com/5m0bpf.jpg
http://i66.tinypic.com/30svn9i.jpg

Pretty big day....
For all you guys that have experienced that moment when you turn the key and it comes to life.....sure is a rush.
Smoke cleared up after a minute or so.....a little residual in the cylinders to keep them lubed during the build.
https://youtu.be/nOvUWr3ckR4

Nice, has to be a great feeling :cheers:

Great job, Otto.

Andrew

Well done sir. That is great feeling indeed. :dance:

awesome job!

Congrats! You buttoned it up quite quickly, I`m still so far behind with mine but coming along slowly.

Well the Durametric is showing a p1341 code.(Porsche fault code 900-inlet camshaft bank 1) I am certain the cams were reinstalled in the exact spots prior to disassembly, both banks were locked using the cam lock tool while the crank was pinned at TDC during the operation.

The data shows no deviation for the first few minutes. Then, bringing the motor off of idle to @ 2000-2500 rpm, the Durametric starts showing CP1 Dev at -0.98 and CP2 Dev at 1.14 where they stay steady regardless of rev or idle.

No CEL light on.

Any thoughts?

The car has had the IMS done using LN bearing....

second test an hour and a beer later...
Car idled for 5 minutes.....no deviatiion.
Ran the revs up to 3000 rpm for 5 minutes...no deviation

did several revs up off of idle to 3500-4000 and let back to idle when it finall started showing a p1341 again. This time Cam 1 -0.89 and cam 2 1.28

Still no CEL

What are the allowable deviation values and could it be I am within them?

Otto, I believe that in order to get an accurate cam deviation reading you should drive your car for at least 20 minutes to ensure it is properly warmed up.

I've read elsewhere on this forum that deviation numbers up to 7 are "acceptable". Anything over 5 though, should indicate a problem.
Your numbers seem just grand to me. Considering the imperfect way the cams are driven.... it's amazing we can get THAT close, honestly.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Well...I had to go on a test drive :dance:

I have logged 30 miles and temps are holding well.

Deviations are as well.....
Cam 1 -0.75
Cam 2 1.28

...and they have not really moved off of those numbers. I think getting the car warmed up and in proper operating temps was important.

Still no CEL

I wonder if they ever came from porsche with dead-on numbers?

Thanks for the input!

Going to try for a smog cert tomorrow....

:cheers:
Otto