Rear Lower Stress Bar Feeler

[mgfranz]

Originally Posted by edc

I have a version of the Pedro one made of hexagonal Alu. As much as I like the thought and look of your bar have you not overthought this? Mines been on for 4 years or so and doesn't appear to have had any issues.

"Overthought"? Maybe, I tend to do a lot of over-engineering. In my past I worked at a fabrication shop building everything from headers, to rollbars, to entire tube chassis, so yeah, I will build something to perform beyond it's means. Besides, it's for a Porsche, has anyone in Germany ever told Porsche "you're overthinking..." ;-)

I looked at the Pedro bar, and quickly thought, "for the price I can do better". The Pedro bar is fine if you just want to stiffen the stress points, but I wanted something better with some minute adjust-ability. What I saw first with the Pedro bar was there was no room for error between the attaching points, I read that some users had problems lining up the bolt holes...

[rfuerst911sc]

Any thoughts of installing " flats " on either end of the tube to allow a wrench to turn/adjust vs. the knurled section you currently have ? I picture the car being on an alignment rack with the holes in the aluminum plate being slotted . Loosen the nuts/bolts on the aluminum plate and now adjust with your cross bar to whatever alignment spec's can be achieved . Tighten down the secondary nuts on your bar and then tighten down the aluminum plate hardware . Is that the general idea ? I'm thinking turning the bar with a wrench vs. your finger tips on the knurled section would be easier . Just thinking out loud .

[mgfranz]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

Any thoughts of installing " flats " on either end of the tube to allow a wrench to turn/adjust vs. the knurled section you currently have ? I picture the car being on an alignment rack with the holes in the aluminum plate being slotted . Loosen the nuts/bolts on the aluminum plate and now adjust with your cross bar to whatever alignment spec's can be achieved . Tighten down the secondary nuts on your bar and then tighten down the aluminum plate hardware . Is that the general idea ? I'm thinking turning the bar with a wrench vs. your finger tips on the knurled section would be easier . Just thinking out loud .

Not a bad idea, however the wall thickness of the link tube would probably be greatly compromised if there were "flats" put into it. I suppose an alternate could be to weld a pair of nuts on the ends of the tube. I used jackstands when I installed mine and had no problem turning the tube by hand.