New buyer questions

[gsy4771]

Good morning, I'm in the market for our first Boxster. Our budget puts us in the 2000-2004 range, approx 60k to 100k miles. I have been reading this board for months and looking forward to our purchase. I was hoping to get some confirmation/opinions on the following

1. We are looking at a 2000 base, 50k. I'm talking with the owner this afternoon and do not believe the IMS has been replaced. The only way to tell if it is a single or double IMS is to remove the transmission? I have read a visual check is necessary but wasn't sure to what extent the transmission has to be removed.

2. What is the thought on length of time for service interval? I'm looking at a 2002S with 90k that had the IMS and clutch replaced about 5.5 years, 35k miles. with LN Engineering IMSB. LN Engineering lists that bearing with a service interval of 4 years / 50k miles. The owner has taken great care of the car and has good service records but I'll admit I fallen victim to the IMS fears I read on the internet.

3. I have read about suspension refreshes needed around 100k, does that only pertain to mileage? I was thinking that all the cars I'm looking at are 16+ years old and the suspension will age whether it is driven or not.

4. I'm pretty sure we have ruled out a 1999 but what does it mean that the blocks were porous? There is a 1999 w/ 67k miles that looks very appealing but I do not understand the block issue. I also know this has the 2.5 engine, I think we would be ok because we are thinking this is a 'gateway' car, planning to upgrade after a few years.


I'm sure I'll have other questions and wanted to start with these. We also understand this will be a much different adventure than our Hondas and this car will take more care / feeding, just trying to go into it with as much information as possible.

[10/10ths]

Buy a 2003-2004.

[tonythetiger]

You want an s and the IMS bearing replacement is some nice piece of mind. The service interval isn't scientific, I have never heard of a LNB retrofit failing, so I'd forget the 4 year interval, sound arbitrary.
Suspension is a fact of life, but the parts bolt right on and you can find them well priced.
I replaced everything in back except struts (that's next), plus the drop links upfront for under 500 bucks, labor included. Motor and transmission mounts are wear items also.
Just my thoughts

[78F350]

Originally Posted by gsy4771

...
4. I'm pretty sure we have ruled out a 1999 but what does it mean that the blocks were porous? There is a 1999 w/ 67k miles that looks very appealing but I do not understand the block issue. I also know this has the 2.5 engine, I think we would be ok because we are thinking this is a 'gateway' car, planning to upgrade after a few years. ...

I've had four '99s that I drove fairly frequently. Two that I sold are at about 180k miles and 150k miles, still fine with the original engine and IMSB. The two that I have are about 140k (replaced IMSB and RMS about 130k miles) and 86k miles (original IMSB, but will change with next clutch). The one with 140k miles had the suspension fully refreshed at about 125k miles. My daughter uses it now as a reliable, fun daily driver. I think that the porous block and slipped sleeve issues were mostly in the '97s and early '98s and those failures should have run their course by now.

The 2000 S I bought had a failed engine with intermix prior to my purchase, probably a cracked head. Cracked heads on the early 3.2Ls concern me more than any issues with the '97 - '99 engines.

The 2001 2.7L I have had a failed engine from a broken rod bolt prior to my purchase. It's strong and reliable on another '01 engine now. I replaced the IMS bearing when I did the engine swap. Removed a good, but grease-less dual row bearing and used the PelicanParts kit (single row). There's no way to know what you have without removing the transmission.

My 2004 S is still a bit of a recovery project from being in a flood, but runs and drives great. I can easily tell the difference in power and acceleration from higher speeds when compared to my '99s, but is it more fun to drive? Not really. They are all great cars.

If you are going to always worry about an IMS problem, get a car that has the "LN IMS Solution", or have it installed after purchase.

[boxfix]

I have a very nice 2003 base model with Tiptonic that I am selling if you are interested.

It is a CA car and no rust anywhere. IMS and RMS replaced and a new trans, new tires new battery, New vacuum lines and canister. New O2 sensors, MAF, all filters. A/C perfect and everything works

Body and paint perfect no scratches or dings. Arctic silver and black leather, cruise control good premium radio. 17" wheels.

It is in CA, but you could do a PPI. Most work done by TRE all records. CA smog cert. Clean title.

I love the car but gotta cut down the fleet. $104xxx miles. $13K OBO

[mikefocke]

1. The trans has to be removed so you can see the flange and determine which flange is used which determines which bearing is behind it.

2. The LN dual row IMS is really now thought to be capable of much much longer use than was originally thought. The figures LN gives you are mostly lawyer dictated. Is The Solution the best? Yes. But if it were a LN dual I wouldn't worry. (If it were a car I intended to keep forever, I'd do The Solution but then I'd also address all the other week points known and those run the costs up to far more than buying an excellent replacement car.)

3. Suspension refreshes can be done as they appear to be needed or all at once.

4. The 99 blocks were not porous. Only 97s. The 99's were subject to slipped sleeve issues but if it hasn't happened by now.... (I haven't heard of one in years)

More info here

I've been following the IMS issue since before it was public knowledge. I've bought two Boxsters, a '99 and an '01S. Both wonderful cars. I was more worried about their basic maintenance than the IMS (not that it can't happen and not that it won't be very expensive if it does) and promptly put probably $3k into my second Boxster to bring it up to my standards (brakes, tires, 90k service, alignment, fluids) and then drove it very close to daily for 5+ years with no issues. Wonderful reliability (better than same year Honda). Two owners later it was still on its original IMS last I heard. I should also say I wasn't cash constrained and would have put in a $20k+ total upgrade engine had the engine failed but with a 1% per car year failure rate I could afford to gamble.

[gsy4771]

Originally Posted by mikefocke

2. The LN dual row IMS is really now thought to be capable of much much longer use than was originally thought. The figures LN gives you are mostly lawyer dictated. Is The Solution the best? Yes. But if it were a LN dual I wouldn't worry. (If it were a car I intended to keep forever, I'd do The Solution but then I'd also address all the other week points known and those run the costs up to far more than buying an excellent replacement car.)

Mike does your opinion change if it is LN Single row bearing?

[Racer Boy]

I just had a LN Single bearing put in my 2002 when I had my clutch replaced, and I don't worry about it at all. My car has 147K on it, so I was starting to worry about the original bearing that was in the motor. When I had it replaced, I pulled the grease seals off the original bearing, and I was relieved that I'd had it replaced. The grease was nearly gone, so it wasn't long for this world.

[gsy4771]

I'm looking at 99 that had the engine replaced @ 52k. The owner states it has a series 2 IMS, the same one installed in '01. I thought I have read that replacement engines would have the same bearing as the original which in this case would be the 'sturdier' double row.