starting issues after car sits for a while

[deemce1]

"remember these issues started as soon as i refurbished injectors and the gas tank was opened as well by my mechanic who supposedly tightened down the fuel pump which was loose. car never had an issue starting up before. "

thanks,

Cristian[/QUOTE]

When this happens to me, I always go back to the old saying "If it was working and you did something and now it no longer works..... you broke it. Go back and retrace your steps"

Good luck. We can feel the frustration in your posts.

[CrisZenithBlue]

Wanted to update this post, because i did and learned some things in the meantime. The P1128 and P1130 codes were actually caused by having the wrong MAF version, i did sort that out quite a while ago and no more codes, definitely closed the book on those.

The P0455 code was indeed from a major evap leak, it was actually the fuel sender unit. Under the battery tray the plastic neck that the line connects to snapped of, it was old yellow brittle plastic. i replaced the fuel sender, made sure the fuel pump was sitting right and fixed that issue right away, no more fuel fumes coming into the cabin.

I still have the hot start issue, and i believe what is happening is what Blue62 and particlewave (in an older post here) mentioned, fumes ending up in the intake, when i press the gas a bit more air is mixed in and it starts right up, never takes more than 2-3 seconds. it's most likely something in the EVAP ecosystem that is not doing its job.

I was going to change that valve that sits behind the right headlight, i have the part just never got around to replacing it. I thought it was supposed to go on the charcoal canister according to DYI guides but i guess that was for a different version, mine goes behind the headlight along with another valve. If that doesnt do it i'm considering replacing the charcoal canister.

I'm gonna do that soon and report back. Thanks to all that shared really valuable info, very much appreciated!

[Stl-986]

Originally Posted by CrisZenithBlue

Wanted to update this post, because i did and learned some things in the meantime. The P1128 and P1130 codes were actually caused by having the wrong MAF version,

Not sure where you read that, but that isn't right at all. 1128 & 1130 make many people think it's the maf and it almost always isn't the maf.

[CrisZenithBlue]

Originally Posted by Stl-986

Not sure where you read that, but that isn't right at all. 1128 & 1130 make many people think it's the maf and it almost always isn't the maf.

I know what you're saying. Those codes were the first issue I ever had with the car and i did the whole shebang, smoke tested for vacuum leaks and all that good stuff. I later realized that I didn't buy the correct MAF for my car, I bought the updated one but it wasn't the right one for my ECU. When I replaced the MAF with the right one the codes went away. This was a few years ago.

[blue62]

Cris,
The EVAP system can cause all kinds of issues.
It is a simple system the issue is access to all the hoses and valves.
Stay with it and concentrate on that system. As you know your hard starting is from an over rich mixture when hot.
Not many things can cause that.
The EVAP system is the most likely at this point.
Let us know how you go. Always interested in outcomes.

[Rob175]

STILL wondering...........IF the car didn't have this problem BEFORE you had your mechanic work on the car AND NOW YOU DO.........why didn't you just take it back to the mechanic and tell his "it's not right, fix it!".........Just wondering?

[blue62]

Cris,
Have you tried reclibrating your E-gas (throttle)?????
To see if it helps your hard starting when hot issue???
It's a long shot but easy to do.

I do really think it is an EVAP issue.
Perhaps when the mechanic removed the intake he did something to the EVAP hoses valves or connections. Hoses and some valves for the EVAP are right there.

If you want to give recalibrating the E-gas a shot, this is what you do.
Disconnect the battery for a few minutes so the ECU drops the E-gas calibration settings.
Reconnect the battery.
Turn the ignition to the on position "do not start the car"
Do not touch the gas pedal.
Let it set that way for at least 1 minute.
Turn key off for at least 10 seconds.
Start car.
Thats all there is to it.

[CrisZenithBlue]

Originally Posted by Rob175

STILL wondering...........IF the car didn't have this problem BEFORE you had your mechanic work on the car AND NOW YOU DO.........why didn't you just take it back to the mechanic and tell his "it's not right, fix it!".........Just wondering?

Looking back, i think i might have had that issue before but i didnt realize it or pay attention to it. In that time i was only doing round trip drives with the car and would almost never shut the engine off and restart except once when first starting up so i didnt notice. I think i noticed the hot start issue when filling up with gas on a very hot day but chalked it up to "probably not a big deal" since it started right up.

the only work the mechanic recently did was taking the injectors out, i got them refurbished and then he put them in again. i think i did eliminate the possibility of the injectors not sitting correctly or having a pinched seal and losing fuel pressure because i did the fuel pressure test and it seemed fine (also documented on here). Also, the car starts right up even after sitting for days so that tells me the pressure doesnt bleed out.