Brake caliper bolt issues

[Burg Boxster]

Wheel bolts and the wheel are what really holds rotor hat tight against hub.

Set screw basically keeps rotor/hat in place / aligned when they are not present. Thus why when replacing hand tight is the torque spec.

Textar pads are fine.

Might try running tap thru carrier first to clean up threads instead of immediately jumping to helicoil. Especially since you were able to extract caliper bolt w/ just some heat and penetrating oil. Threads actually look decent all things considered... Tap could be right fix and obviously save you a ton of time.

Good luck

[356Guy]

I'll run the tap through but the threads didn't look so good. I have to order some bolts and screws now.

[PaulE]

Originally Posted by 356Guy

I'll run the tap through but the threads didn't look so good. I have to order some bolts and screws now.

FWIW Porsche recommends using new mounting bolts every time the caliper is removed and reinstalled. They are about $5 each for OEM and it made sense for me to do it when I changed my front rotors and pads. I don't know how the experts feel about that but would be curious to hear others thoughts on it.

[BYprodriver]

Originally Posted by PaulE

FWIW Porsche recommends using new mounting bolts every time the caliper is removed and reinstalled. They are about $5 each for OEM and it made sense for me to do it when I changed my front rotors and pads. I don't know how the experts feel about that but would be curious to hear others thoughts on it.

I assume it's due to deterioration of the hex head & thread coating. I remove the bolts with the best tool available, (Snap On) & coat threads with anti-seize for reassembly, I have the OE bolts in my 2000 Box. ( living in So. CA helps alot, YMMV)

[tommy583]

I snapped a bolt when doing the front brakes a few years ago. I had to get a hub from woody.

[356Guy]

I was worried about breaking the bolt so when it stopped moving with the short snipe on it went to the torch. It would be a pia to have to remove the rear carrier. I ran the tap through the holes today. They all got quite a bit tighter near the bottom threads. This is where the problem started.

[lkchris]

Originally Posted by PaulE

FWIW Porsche recommends using new mounting bolts every time the caliper is removed and reinstalled. They are about $5 each for OEM and it made sense for me to do it when I changed my front rotors and pads. I don't know how the experts feel about that but would be curious to hear others thoughts on it.

Porsche are the experts ... there are no other.

BTW, there’s a major difference between recommendation and specification ... Porsche specifies.

I’d really think these screws stretch when torqued to specification. In many applications this is indeed considered a one-time event.

Bolts are for putting nuts on ... when you don’t, it’s a screw.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by lkchris

Bolts are for putting nuts on ... when you don’t, it’s a screw.

Please stop screwing up... LOL

sorry, could not resist

[Burg Boxster]

Originally Posted by lkchris

Porsche are the experts ... there are no other.

BTW, there’s a major difference between recommendation and specification ... Porsche specifies.

I’d really think these screws stretch when torqued to specification. In many applications this is indeed considered a one-time event.

Bolts are for putting nuts on ... when you don’t, it’s a screw.

All bolts are screws but not all screws are bolts is more meaningful than all bourbon is whiskey but not all whiskey is bourbon...

I leave you to inform Porsche all the corrections needed in owner manuals, part catalogs and workshop manuals re: bolt vs screw.

Good luck