Afraid of the answer.....

[Nine8Six]

Originally Posted by robdelorenzo

No question that my indy can do it. He's $140 an hour though.

Totally feel you. That is the main reason I've purchased a VW Lavida 1.4TSI under warranty. I just can't afford to drive a Porsche everyday man, even less afford to buy a new one under warranty. One day I will tough One day lollll

Try to see if you can get a (cheap) pressure test kit with a Porsche adapter for less than $40~50. If this exist?... Harbor freight? Autozone....

WP is fine imo... the car would overheat instantly if you'd have failed impeller(s). Certainly would run much hotter that what you are describing anyway.

[robdelorenzo]

The reality of my situation is that I am a recent cancer survivor.
I was laid off during my treatments and had been doing delivery work that involved using the vehicle while I looked for a real job.
I was able to afford the necessary maintenance until the meltdown.
I'm at the crossroads now of just how much more I can put into this car to hopefully keep it for a few years while I save up some cash.
Or to cut my losses and get out of it if it's a money pit.

I'd like to keep the trips to the $140/hour guy to a minimum right now while I evaluate what my next move is going to be.

If there are things I can do, I want to try those first.

My experience so far with The Boxster has been good medicine while I recover.

It brings joy into my life and that **************** eating grin that anyone who drives one knows.

That is worth fighting for.

[Nine8Six]

Originally Posted by robdelorenzo

The reality of my situation is that I am a recent cancer survivor.

Great hope for those who are fighting, thanks for sharing.

Survivor myself. Survived suicide tendencies only one week ago (also Porsche/part/price related lollll). First time it even happen to me and hope it doesn't again. Porsche cars looks so much better when they work. Hope you'll (our indy, I suspect) get it fixed

[robdelorenzo]

Someone on Rennlist suggested that I check the coolant hoses that flow both in and out of the radiators to see if the water pump/thermostat are working.
This makes sense to me and not something I had considered.
He suggested that it be done on a lift, though.
Can I get the front end up high enough to get under it and run it until it's hot enough to get under it and squeeze the hoses that go in and out of the radiators to check them?

This is a good proactive action that I think I want to try.
I still have 2 more days of a long weekend with a car that's really only useful to take to the grocery store at the moment.

Any other tests, ideas, or things that I can check in the next few days would be greatly appreciated. I'm tempted to try and take out the thermostat and even the water pump to see what's going on.

This car is my daily driver and I'm willing to try as much as I can first before going back to the mechanic on Tuesday. Not out of shame or ego, but I'm running out of $ to throw at the problem. There's enough left for one last repair at the moment.
If we can get this leaking problem licked, I am able to keep earning in the mean time to make my next move.

The other issue is that if it is the water pump and missing impeller blades are clogging water channels somewhere in the engine, am I correct in my thinking that it's really then just a matter of time until the thing grenades on me? If so, then I cannot sink much more $$ into the car.

Agonizing to say the least.

I'm not spilling my guts here for :ah:

I'm just being as honest as I can possible be so I can formulate a plan working with what I have for the best possible outcome.

There are people here with decades of accumulated knowledge about these cars that are willing to share it freely and I'm grateful for their help.

[911monty]

Well since it's been too damn hot for golf or driving the Box (115 deg yesterday) I guess I'm your Huckelberry, if you're interested.
While your temperature sender apparently needs to be changed I think we still need to verify the leak issue. I have attached a few pics since they're far better than words. So to be clear, your leakage looks exactly like the last pic in the thread I attached yesterday? From the same hose? Maybe this is simple but long range troubleshooting and assumptions don't work. You can verify by having someone pour water into this area while you observe it draining out the hose from below.

In this image I am pointing to the drain. As you can see the only sources (normally) are the cap and the purge/bleed valve.


In this image you can see the tank is two pieces bonded together. The forward nipple is the nipple for the drain to the manifold where it passes thru the trunk. If you look closely you can see that this nipple has very little clearance between it and the tank. There is a possibility this seam has failed here from the overpressure and is leaking coolant. If you can with engine running,and coolant leaking, look down into that hole and see if coolant is coming between the seam. As long as the cap and purge assembly are not leaking, then this really is the only point coolant can drain to that hose.