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I asked for advice really about whether it matters if I put an LN or Vertex or whatever else kind of IMS in the car. I should have known better than to expect sensible, unbiased advice. My point about LN cornering the market - originally the retrofit was a lifetime for and forget. Then it changed. Now it is every 75k miles. I would do the same if I had invested time and more importantly $$$$ in developing a product only to see the market size become fixed and smaller after every product sold. In reality, the bigger issue is that hype about the IMS failure has gotten to the point that people will not take a risk on a car that doesn't have it done as they prefer to not have to take care of it themselves and will pass on a car, unless it us ridiculiusly cheap and we are talking about way more than $1k off..... |
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From a buyer's perspective below: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxdvSq_byZw&t=175s |
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I doubt there's anything new to be said about 986 IMS bearings. Everything in this thread could be repeated by selectively copying from other threads. At least oil formulations change, making the "what oil should I use" threads a little more relevant.
The Pelican Parts IMS bearing is virtually the same as the single row bearing that Porsche used (with an improved stud). Perhaps that would have been a more useful answer to Traco than the statement about only being available as a unit including the shaft. If the IMS bearing is being replaced concurrently with a clutch, the additional labor is trivial (at my personal shop rate). Here's some good reading with posts from Wayne Dempsey and Mike Focke: LN vs Pelican IMS bearing replacement - Pelican Parts Technical BBS To Nedlands: Seriously, you could just type your thread topic into Google and pick the answers you like from there. and finally, here's a picture of a cat looking up torques in my 986 workshop manual. It's as useful as anything else in this thread. ;) http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1498405524.jpg |
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Long life to PelicanParts man - Go Go Go! |
Fluffy didn't get the fish fillet today? Who would trust such a huge cat with a look like that. Man feels like he's about to launch and kill you in the face lolll
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Forgive me....
....if my advice was neither sensible nor unbiased.
It just seems to me, that if you are going to take the time and effort to drop the transmission and replace the IMS, it's not THAT much more money to install the permanent solution instead of a temporary one. Why would you choose another roller bearing, when there is a replacement out there that uses a plain bearing that floats on oil with no balls or rollers to fail? The major cost is the labor, not the parts. You can charge more for the car and not lose any money. As more and more young people buy up these old Boxster and troll these forums for information, there will be a growing market for cars with the "Solution" as folks will want to invest in a car they don't have to worry about. As far as me being biased, well, yeah, everybody is. I just don't understand how anyone with any sense of how machinery works would replace one failure prone roller bearing with another one when there is a plain bearing option. And another benefit of the "Solution" is the spin-on oil filter adapter that goes with it for better oil filtration and easier service, and elimination of the possible failure of the OEM drain back system. I'll shut up now and promise to no longer contribute to these threads. Good luck. And Miata's ARE awesome, I had one for 22 years before buying the Boxster two years ago. :cheers: |
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Although, you don't need to be a scientist to understand that all of those products are better than the oem. Proof are all over = NONE FAILED (we're all ims grown up now loll) Quote:
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Thanks...
...Honestly, I am very sorry for coming across in a non-friendly manner. It's just the nature of printed communication, you can't get the tone across.
Also, I did drop the ball and skimmed over the OP about just searching for a quick solution for a quick and dirty sale of the vehicle. I apologize for that. I'm just of a nature that makes it hard for me to part with a vehicle and hard for me to not invest in an old car to preserve her for future enjoyment. I just sold my 1990 Miata that I turbocharged to a nice guy in Chicago for only $2,400. I've dropped $20,000 in that little car over the past twenty years. Did I lose my shirt? Not at all. I learned a tremendous amount about modifying vehicles, drove the car for 250,000 miles, and passed her on to another fellow enthusiast who will get years of enjoyment from her. For the first time in over 23 years I do not own a Miata. This Boxster is my dream car, and I'm loving every minute. We are taking her to the Grand Canyon soon from our Louisiana home, and can't wait to get busting bugs. As far as the IMS thing, it's really simple to me, fewer moving parts equals better reliability. All the best, everyone. I'm honored to be a part of this awesome community that has helped me tremendously as I enter the second half of my life as a new Porsche owner. :cheers: |
10/10ths....i probably should have been clearer about what I was meaning in my original post. I wasn't taking your responses as unfriendly and excuse my sarcasm about your cat.
I have had my Boxster for 2 years. I have renewed many parts and done most of the maintenance work usually needed except for the IMS and clutch. I have two other cars and don't use the Boxster enough so it needs to find a new owner who will drive it more frequently. My point in posting was that in talking to potential buyers most want the IMS done. I am going to do that but don't want to make a mistake and pick the wrong brand and then have people reject it.the conversation goes: Buyer - have you done the IMS? Seller - Yes. Buyer - which kit did you use? Seller - XYXZ.... Buyer - Oh.... I want one with AbC..... I'll pass I guess...... I guess I need to know from a buyer perspective if the brand matters or whether it has been doine is sufficient. And btw.... it's not a quick and dirty sale. I wouldn't have done any .maintenance items if that were the case...... |
So, i will add my opinion as a potential purchaser of a Boxster and someone that has had a lot of conversation with Nedlands lately about his...Great guy by the way, total car nut and we have a similar automotive history. If we lived closer i think we would get beers and talk about our "Ex's" and which ones we wish we had back.
I had a friend looking at B6&7 S4's with the V8's that have timing chain issues that has erupted into the same "fear" as IMS issues for 986's. Cars without proof the $4-$6k job of pulling the motor and replacing the chains and guides simply were not selling to anyone "in the know". I went with a buddy to look at one that had the work completed with documentation. Saw the car, had a PPI done, the shop doing it was suspect about the paperwork, did some leg work and found the "invoice" was faked and the shop that supposedly did the work actually did not. It was a forgery to sell the car luckily my friend figured it out and reported the ad as a scam. I tell that story because it is similar to IMS, you cannot simply pull the transmission and check to make sure the work has really been done. However, with LN they have created a system, and as silly as it sounds that sticker they provide stands as proof to many that yes in fact the IMS bearing was done and it is correctly documented and tracked by a reputable company. So from a buyers perspective, it is a small bit of reassurance when buying a car that has the proof of completion. Secondarily, you can always take very detailed pictures of the swap, and if not using LNE save the old bearing to show there was no real damage and the engine should be safe for the new owner. Sorry for the long post and aggressive use of "quotes" but wanted to offer an non owners and potential buyers perspective. Good luck! |
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My apologies. Great community. :cheers: |
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Are other aftermarket IMSBs as good as LNE products? Who knows, probably yes. But, from a knowledgeable buyers perspective proof is proof and only LNE has a system in place to track their bearings. Regarding the LNE limited warranty, I sure that they were advised by their legal counsel to set the mileage and year limits. As for selling price, for me the difference with or without IMSB replacement is not $1,000, it would be more like $3,000. That's to say that, all other things being equal, I would consider a 986 without firm proof of a recent IMSB replacement worth $3,000 less than the same car with proof. Just my opinion, but I spent my $15.5k on a 986 with reliable proof of the recent IMSB replacement. Eventually, I'll pop for "the solution" because I enjoy the car so much. |
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I owned a '92 Miata before my '98 Boxster. Huge upgrade, btw. I paid about $5k for the Miata, drove it for 6 years and put another 7K into it during that time...a mix of upgrades (roll bar, frame stiffener...), missed maintenance and stuff that just wears out on a car that old (wheel bearings, water lines...etc.) Sold it for $3,500 with the additional 30k mile I added. While I agree that you shouldn't expect to get your money back and you should be making mods and fixes for your own benefit (not resale) I also feel I'm not as inclined to spend so much time turning a wrench. I'm at the point in my life I want to drive more and wrench less. Having said that, I'm not ready to fund a mechanics kid's education. So, with the Boxster, I do what will make the car more reliable (preventative maintenance) and what makes it more fun for me (radio upgrade) but I don't do maintenance that seems unwarranted or is just for resale. I've got a '98 with the dual row bearing and change the oil regularly (with Porsche approved synthetic) and send it out to Blackstone for checks (they measure the microscopic metal in the oil which will give an alert way before finding shavings in the oil filter.) I'm going to keep driving it until an oil report tells me differently. If that hurts me a little on resale so be it. I doubt I'd ever recoup the $2k in resale anyway....closer to $3k if I let someone else to it (especially because it isn't a garage queen and will likely be venturing into the 100k territory when I sell it.) |
Try this...
1) put the car up for sale and, if you get your asking price, then problem solved 2) if you don't get your asking price, then put the LN in b/c it going to be the one most likely to give buyers the assurance they want. BTW: someone said it, the $s are in the labor not the parts so why go cheap? |
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went with the LN solution (have the serial number decal for reselling) and so happy I did it. one less thing I have to worry about |
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