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Old 06-17-2017, 02:37 PM   #1
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Slight problem during oil change, what to do next?

Hi,
I am changing my oil on my 99 Boxster (Standard, not an S). I've always changed my own oil but this is my first time on the Boxtster. I used a ramp on the rear driver-side wheel and rolled up that so I can get my drain tub under there. I let it drain for an hour at least and going back to it there's still a slow but constant drip coming out. No problem- without turning the enging on I rolled it down the ramp and got a smaller container under there. Sure enough, a faster drip ensued so I thought ok good, let it drain some more. Waited a while, went back to it, it's time to get the drain plug back on. I couldn't reach so I had to start the engine and I ran it for the 5 seconds it took to back up the ramp. However, in that short time it definitely made a loud grinding noise. In my other cars I would occasionaly have to run the engine just long enough to reposition the car but never heard a grind. I haven't even added the new oil back in yet, figured I'd check with you all and see if there's anything special I need to do here. Do I just add the new oil and hope for the best?

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Old 06-17-2017, 02:47 PM   #2
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You ran an engine with no oil? Yikes
That's an incredibly bad thing to do. Maybe you got lucky, but it sounds like you caused some serious damage. Have it towed to a competent mechanic and next time, no matter the car, just use a jack.
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Old 06-17-2017, 02:56 PM   #3
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^ this.

Or if this was my car, I'd just scan it for faults as 'some' would have certainly registered if a mechanical failure would have occurred. Turn the key/ignition to ON > Scan for faults/code using a generic OBD handscaner.

If no code I'd just fill it with oil and go play!

That noise you heard... it was the ramp moving man, not the IMS

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Old 06-17-2017, 03:08 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by particlewave View Post
You ran an engine with no oil? Yikes
That's an incredibly bad thing to do. Maybe you got lucky, but it sounds like you caused some serious damage. Have it towed to a competent mechanic and next time, no matter the car, just use a jack.
Can't add much to this, starting the engine without oil was a very bad idea. Get it flat bedded to a Porsche mechanic, I would leave the oil out.
Next time don't use ramps, and you won't have any issues getting all of the oil to drain out.
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Old 06-17-2017, 03:15 PM   #5
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I suspect Fred is right, the sound you heard might have been the ramp moving a bit. That said, holy lapse in judgment, Batman: you started the engine in your Porsche with no oil in it? Yikes. Good luck. The most prudent course has already been identified: flat bed it to a Porsche mechanic.
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Old 06-17-2017, 03:25 PM   #6
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Just curious, what happen next? I mean what will the mechanic do to identify if the engine is in good shape? Does he have to 'open up' the engine to confirm?

Would a slight misfire not register as fault? Cam sensor, whatever... ? Can these engine really grind/destruct themselves without alarming?
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Old 06-17-2017, 03:29 PM   #7
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Wow. That is all I can say (and I am biting my lip to keep from saying what I want to say).

If you're sure that it was the engine making the grinding sound, then I'd have it flatbedded to a shop for an eval.
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Old 06-17-2017, 03:30 PM   #8
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To clarify, the noise was not the ramp, definitely the engine. And again, it ran for less than five seconds, and was not hot.
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Old 06-17-2017, 03:31 PM   #9
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Just curious, what happen next? I mean what will the mechanic do to identify if the engine is in good shape? Does he have to 'open up' the engine to confirm?

Would a slight misfire not register as fault? Cam sensor, whatever... ? Can these engine really grind/destruct themselves without alarming?
A shop can use a boroscope to check for damage inside the cylinders.

They can also try slightly rotating the engine by hand to feel and listen for any grinding.

They can also pull the valve covers to check the timing chains.
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Old 06-17-2017, 03:32 PM   #10
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To clarify, the noise was not the ramp, definitely the engine. And again, it ran for less than five seconds, and was not hot.
At this point, be conservative. Flatbed it to a mechanic. You still have a very good chance of driving it away after having it checked but you don't want to take the chance of making anything worse by starting the engine.
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Old 06-17-2017, 03:35 PM   #11
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To clarify, the noise was not the ramp, definitely the engine. And again, it ran for less than five seconds, and was not hot.
Codes? Just take a taxi to your nearest autozone and buy that 9.99 scanner on sale.

Mine does all kind of slapping, ping'ing, tok tok tok sounds each and every time I start it. Was like that when NEW also mind you

Got M1 oil. Some says its the same as not having oil at all
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Old 06-17-2017, 03:35 PM   #12
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I am hoping that the noise you heard was the hydraulic lifters or some other oil fed component simply running dry and the engine might be ok. But if something really went south, you don't want to start it or you'll be forcing metal into every corner and crevice and machined space in the engine while its running and that would be really bad.
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Old 06-17-2017, 03:35 PM   #13
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Another point- disregarding the grind noise for the moment, when changing our oil, we all let it drain for a good long time. Then we add the new oil. Then we start it and drive away. Is there any difference when we start our cars in the morning? All the oil has drained into the pan overnight and that's ok.
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Old 06-17-2017, 03:43 PM   #14
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No. Not the same. The oil has to stay in the cylinders and chains over night, every nights. Otherwise, boom brother

Sorry, tired bud, can't help (I wish). Scan the car
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Old 06-17-2017, 03:51 PM   #15
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Another point- disregarding the grind noise for the moment, when changing our oil, we all let it drain for a good long time. Then we add the new oil. Then we start it and drive away. Is there any difference when we start our cars in the morning? All the oil has drained into the pan overnight and that's ok.
Big difference. In the morning, the engine is only without high pressure oil for a very short moment. Whereas 5 sec's is much, much longer.

As I said, the odds are in your favor, but since you heard something that wasn't normal, the logical thing to to is to have it checked out rather than risk it.
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Old 06-17-2017, 04:29 PM   #16
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Ouch!

Put the wrench down, and step away from the car....
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Old 06-17-2017, 04:47 PM   #17
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I've got a durametric, is there anything in particular I should be looking for?
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Old 06-17-2017, 05:12 PM   #18
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Durawhat? We don't have that here in China so can't confirm what to look for. If it scans for faults, then do that. Don;t run the engine - just twist the key until you see dash lights and then stop loll

Code 666 = engine is dead
Code 777 = engine is good

But do let us know what other fault codes you may find before starting that car. Sure some here knows Durametric better than I do and will chip in
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Old 06-17-2017, 05:19 PM   #19
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Hopefully not the rod and/or main bearings....
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Old 06-17-2017, 05:23 PM   #20
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I've got a durametric, is there anything in particular I should be looking for?
Best I can help with. Under fault tab >

Curious to see what 'grindding' you'll find in there, let us know.


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