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-   -   Slight problem during oil change, what to do next? (http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67165)

JBauer 06-17-2017 05:56 PM

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1497750933.jpg

Mauiguy 06-17-2017 06:14 PM

Durametric scan said no faults, but doesn't the engine need to be running for it to show everything? Obviously I didn't start it...

particlewave 06-17-2017 06:38 PM

An absence of codes really means nothing. You are still in the same predicament.

The way I see it, you have two options:
1) Fill the oil and take a risk as is or
2) take it to a mechanic and confess your crime. ;)

Option 1 is not a good choice.

algiorda 06-17-2017 06:49 PM

Oh, just put some new oil in it and drive it.

Fintro11 06-17-2017 07:03 PM

............ ouch next time find a small kid to crawl under there and at least get it finger tight

Nine8Six 06-17-2017 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mauiguy (Post 541102)
Durametric scan said no faults, but doesn't the engine need to be running for it to show everything? Obviously I didn't start it...

No. Needs eng running only if you need access to live data. Stored faults can be read with the key removed from the ignition in fact. Mine does anyway.Just not sure about Durametric... better not to take any chances. therefore ignition ON.

So... looks like your car fires at the right time and mix its gas & air properly. Anything you worry about that much that prevents you from running the car with oil? If any gears went 'grinding' in there, surely related to the windshield washer pump. My guess mind you

Disclosure: I know nothing about cars. Everything will be fine as long as it looks good :D

Your call

ps: second hands P engines are $1500 here now, twice less than what labor cost to open your valve covers. Those half-plastic $1500 engines installs in an afternoon with a mate or two also. Cost 4~5 pizza and few beers after.

JBauer 06-17-2017 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by algiorda (Post 541106)
Oh, just put some new oil in it and drive it.

I'm guessing that's what will end up happening.

rexcramer 06-17-2017 07:34 PM

One man's opinion. Don't put any oil in it until you jack it back up and pull the sump plate off. Look for shiny bits laying about.

Nine8Six 06-17-2017 07:59 PM

wroom wroom?? we're waiting... we are waiting to find out if we can run those M96 without oil. Tired to change my oil every 2500km... I'd like to extend this maintenance every 15,000 ;)

911monty 06-17-2017 08:47 PM

Slight Problem?????? :eek: Definitely candidate for understatement of eternity!!!

Mig 06-17-2017 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by algiorda (Post 541106)
Oh, just put some new oil in it and drive it.

The damage (if any) is done. a boroscope won't tell you anything about main bearing or connecting rod bearing damage.

If this was my car I would put the oil in. Cross my fingers and start it up.

Good luck.

Nine8Six 06-18-2017 06:24 AM

^ this. +1

911monty 06-18-2017 06:36 AM

Pulling the pan will also tell you nothing. The damage if any will be localized and with no oil flow from lack of oil, to move debris, will still be at the point of origin.
At this point the primary concern IMO will be the chain tensioners. With lack of oil pressure they are likely now retracted further than normal. If your cam timing hasn't already slipped, it could slip on restart when there is resistance to rotation from cylinder pressure.
With the skills demonstrated previously I'd recommend a professional look at your engine. BUT in this case the potential damage if any is certainly catastrophic, (main and rod bearings, wrist pins and valves from slipped timing, the Other end of the IMSB ?!?) and I don't see an engine inspection teardown as likely, Then pull the spark plugs, fill with oil and crank the starter for a good minute or two to get oil back where it should be. Hopefully pumping up the tensioners. Reinstall spark plugs, liberally apply Maui Wowee, cross your fingers and hope for the best. Could get lucky.

JFP in PA 06-18-2017 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mauiguy (Post 541102)
Durametric scan said no faults, but doesn't the engine need to be running for it to show everything? Obviously I didn't start it...

Sorry, but there is no code for "owner stupidity".........

algiorda 06-18-2017 02:53 PM

If there was synthetic oil, wouldn't the residue cover essential surfaces for the small time he ran it without oil?

JFP in PA 06-18-2017 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by algiorda (Post 541187)
If there was synthetic oil, wouldn't the residue cover essential surfaces for the small time he ran it without oil?

That residual film is good for maybe a faction of a min. until oil pressure builds up. He started it and tried to drive it back up the ramps, which is way too long to be without both the lubrication and cooling of the oil as the engine was now under a load. Add in that the engine started to make ugly noises, and the prognosis in not good.......

JayG 06-18-2017 03:16 PM

For starters, there are tons of threads and web postings on changing the oil

The car needs to be level to properly drain, not lifting one corner

Nine8Six 06-18-2017 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by algiorda (Post 541187)
If there was synthetic oil, wouldn't the residue cover essential surfaces for the small time he ran it without oil?

Debatable. Modern automotive lubricants are designed for very high temp and are thick (effective). You can test/rub two metal parts together for quite a long time! The problem here is the owner had "old oil". Old oil can run-off quite quickly leaving practically nothing to protect metal surfaces.

When load and rpm hits, heats immediately burns off the ineffective oil :/

pidj 06-18-2017 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbauer (Post 541112)
i'm guessing that's what will end up happening.

+1 . :d

Fintro11 06-18-2017 04:23 PM

Waiting for his reply and some pictures


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