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Old 02-11-2017, 12:50 AM   #1
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Huge boxster problem...

So the car recently just won't start it cranks but doesn't start and the top doesn't work it doesn't go up Or down the lights on so i cant get to the engine to fix it and I don't know how to fix this.

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Old 02-11-2017, 03:53 AM   #2
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Click on the link the the below that says, "so your top is stuck in the closed position?"

https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/thetop-itsmaintaince%26replacement
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Old 02-11-2017, 08:20 AM   #3
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No start:
The short answer is to ask here for a competent ,honest Indie in your area.
The diagnosis list is long and complex to act on. But let's try one simple thing- when the engine cranks, does the tachometer needle move slightly?
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Old 02-23-2017, 11:42 AM   #4
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No start:
The short answer is to ask here for a competent ,honest Indie in your area.
The diagnosis list is long and complex to act on. But let's try one simple thing- when the engine cranks, does the tachometer needle move slightly?
No it doesnt move at all
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Old 02-23-2017, 12:36 PM   #5
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Sounds like it may be the crank position sensor.
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Old 02-23-2017, 01:02 PM   #6
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CPS, Crank Position Sensor, not working!
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Old 02-23-2017, 01:31 PM   #7
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No it doesnt move at all
That indicates the CPS is defective.

Last edited by Gelbster; 03-08-2017 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 03-05-2017, 01:29 PM   #8
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Timco had an issue a while back that looked like a CPS and it turned out to be the fuel pump. Although the rpm not moving sure sounds like CPS, not to be confused with a camshaft sensor.
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Old 03-05-2017, 02:19 PM   #9
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I replaced it , it did nothing so your wrong.
What ohms did the sensor read when you did the test before replacing it? Is the new one reading different or could it be a faulty one out of the box?
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Old 03-05-2017, 06:20 PM   #10
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Sounds like your muffler bearings need to be re-packed. I recommend using 30 weight grease. Let me know if you need a DIY.
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Old 03-06-2017, 05:34 AM   #11
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That indicates the CPS is defective.
Here is the definitive test from JFP:
"Remove the CPS sensor connector, connect your multimeter to pin #1 and pin#2, at 68F it should read 0.8-1.0K ohms; then connect the multimeter to pin #1 and pin #3 and it should read infinite ohms; if it does not read correctly in either range, can the sensor and replace it."
What does "at 68F" mean? Are you referring to temperature? I am standing by for ridicule, but I am also suffering from starting issues. Unfortunately I posted the CPS failure post before I saw this one.
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Old 03-06-2017, 05:50 AM   #12
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What ohms did the sensor read when you did the test before replacing it? Is the new one reading different or could it be a faulty one out of the box?
I asked but still don't see the answer, what did you get for ohm values when you tested it? Replacing a part with a new part is usually a way to eliminate something but it can also get you into a whole world of problems when you assume the new part functions as it should without testing it because you will chase other problems when the real problem can still be that part.
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Old 03-06-2017, 05:55 AM   #13
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68 degrees Fahrenheit!
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Old 03-06-2017, 06:04 AM   #14
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What does "at 68F" mean? Are you referring to temperature? I am standing by for ridicule, but I am also suffering from starting issues. Unfortunately I posted the CPS failure post before I saw this one.
Start a new thread. Glad to help. Back to basics. Does the tach move when you crank?

Check fuel rail pressure next.
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Old 03-06-2017, 06:45 AM   #15
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Start a new thread. Glad to help. Back to basics. Does the tach move when you crank?

Check fuel rail pressure next.
Tach just sits there and does nothing, not even a quiver. However, the tach does the same thing when it starts.
New thread started under the heading CSP FAILURE???
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Old 03-06-2017, 01:23 PM   #16
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I asked but still don't see the answer, what did you get for ohm values when you tested it? Replacing a part with a new part is usually a way to eliminate something but it can also get you into a whole world of problems when you assume the new part functions as it should without testing it because you will chase other problems when the real problem can still be that part.
Hey i didnt test it i just figured if i change the cps it would do the trick
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Old 03-06-2017, 01:24 PM   #17
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Hey i didnt test it i just figured if i change the cps it would do the trick
Im screwed
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Old 03-06-2017, 01:26 PM   #18
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Start a new thread. Glad to help. Back to basics. Does the tach move when you crank?

Check fuel rail pressure next.
Thanks for everyones help and im sorry for being rude if i was , but idk what im doing and im just gonna have to spend $1000+ to get it fixed
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Old 03-06-2017, 02:42 PM   #19
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Not screwed yet by far. It's all good man.

CPS is pretty cheap. If you can't test it, I'd still start there. Not super easy to get to. If you want to do more testing first, verify fuel pressure is present.

These are not cars to own if you can't scrounge up $2k if needed unless you can do your own testing and wrenching to make it more affordable. You may have got a great deal, but to fix anything on it it's still a Porsche all the way around.
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Old 03-06-2017, 03:03 PM   #20
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Apology accepted.

Things that make the car not start.

Fuel pump

You can pull the fuel pump relay and jumper it to run the pump. Search the forum for fuel pump and you'll run into it. If the pump runs scratch that off the list.

CPS - but usually fails hot and it seems you replaced it already.

Immobilizer under the drivers seat. Is it wet under the drivers seat? This is a whole new adventure if it is.

Top not working -I'm assuming the top motor is not running. Make sure the parking brake is on ( I made this mistake once). If the parking brake is pulled cycle it a couple of times to see if the top micro switch is failing.

Latch and unlatch the top a few times as well (another micro switch)

I don't understand what you mean by "the lights on so i cant get to the engine to fix it"

If it were me, I'd jumper the fuel pump next. Very common failure and easy test to run.

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