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Old 12-26-2016, 01:57 PM   #1
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removing wheel liner with wheel installed?

A few weeks ago I replaced the door latch on the drivers side with a used part from Woody because my window micro switch was going out. I thought I tested the key afterwards but I guess I didn't. Not sure why this would have changed unless there is some alignment I didn't do.

Fast forward to this week where I went out of town for 7 days. Car went into sleep mode as expected but the key won't open the door. I feel the resistance and the key returns to the neutral position automatically but nothing engages inside the door.

Car is parked with parking brake on and 1st gear engaged.
Wheel lock is in the frunk.

I think my two choices are to A) call a lock smith to jimmy the lock or use an airbag on the window or B) take the passenger side liner off and fish for the frunk release.

So, any pictures or help in removing the liner with the wheel installed?

Or any other suggestions for getting in the car?

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Old 12-26-2016, 02:09 PM   #2
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Would setting off the alarm (by rocking the car) bring the car out of sleep mode so that you could use the key remote to open the doors?
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Old 12-26-2016, 02:21 PM   #3
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I ran outside to try, either I didn't rock it enough or the alarm is asleep too.
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Old 12-26-2016, 02:36 PM   #4
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I ran outside to try, either I didn't rock it enough or the alarm is asleep too.
LOL Too funny. Good luck.
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Old 12-26-2016, 02:57 PM   #5
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I think this is a good example of FUBAR.... Initially I couldn't see any good reason to open the frunk and then you tried to set off the alarm, Yeah that would be a good reason.... So search for how to remove the lock nut but I believe now's the time for excessive force. Find a socket that almost fits over the lock nut then using a BFH hammer the socket on and remove the locknut and properly dispose of it. remove the liner, open the frunk and at least you can now disconnect the battery for the neighbors sake if you set off the alarm.

http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/61000-remove-locking-wheel-nut-without-key.html

Now the key issue. Are you saying you replaced the door handle assembly But didn't transfer the lock from your old handle?

(I'll let someone else give you grief over the frunk release and the tow hole hack)

Last edited by 911monty; 12-26-2016 at 03:11 PM.
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Old 12-26-2016, 03:02 PM   #6
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Quote:
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I ran outside to try, either I didn't rock it enough or the alarm is asleep too.
Haha, that's funny. Here's a thread where a guy in same situation just pulled out the pass side side marker light and then fished out the trunk release line. Hope it's as easy for you. Then, you can disconnect the battery and then reconnect it which should bring it out of sleep mode.

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996/242353-sleep-mode-remote-keys-door-does-not-open-mechanical.html

EDIT: Reread the thread above, and he stated that by opening the frunk, it set off alarm which woke car from sleep mode, allowing him to use the remote. So, you can just set off alarm to wake the car up. Rock the car harder!
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Old 12-26-2016, 05:33 PM   #7
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All the more reason I'm glad I rerouted my release cable to the center lower portion behind the front bumper. Easily reached from underneath!
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Old 12-26-2016, 06:40 PM   #8
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I remember one time I set off the alarm by jacking the car up. Ya don't ask why I had locked the car before jacking it up, needless to say I already had the lock nut tool out.
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Old 12-27-2016, 07:57 AM   #9
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Now the key issue. Are you saying you replaced the door handle assembly But didn't transfer the lock from your old handle?
I didn't change anything with the key, just the black latching mechanism with the door handle micro switch. I can't see how the key wouldn't work unless there is some alignment or something I missed. I clipped on the handle stud to the black box but didn't touch the tumbler in any way. Didn't even touch the door handle. The cylinder has tension and returns to the neutral upright position when released. Maybe it never worked, I can't remember a time when I had to use the key to get in.
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Old 12-27-2016, 08:49 AM   #10
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You get this sorted?
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Old 12-27-2016, 09:03 AM   #11
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I didn't change anything with the key, just the black latching mechanism with the door handle micro switch. I can't see how the key wouldn't work unless there is some alignment or something I missed. I clipped on the handle stud to the black box but didn't touch the tumbler in any way. Didn't even touch the door handle. The cylinder has tension and returns to the neutral upright position when released. Maybe it never worked, I can't remember a time when I had to use the key to get in.
So you replaced the door latch? I attached a picture of the back side of the handle. You can see the paddle that has to be inserted into its receptacle on the latch mechanism. The Pelican DIY doesn't discuss this. This was either not inserted when you installed the lock mechanism or it is broken.
So did you get the wheel off and hood unlatched?


Last edited by 911monty; 12-27-2016 at 09:53 AM.
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Old 12-27-2016, 11:50 AM   #12
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Ok success!

24mm deep six sided socket (this was sacrificial for me) with BFH.
Pull wheel off, start at front of liner and remove screws, pops, nuts and torx fasterners.
find cable on other side of headlight (use small screw driver to create a T handle and not cut fingers), pull pretty hard.
Open hood, disconnect battery wait 20 mins for good measure (re-route cable to tow hook thru removed passenger light while waiting), re-attach battery and presto; remote works again,

I didn't change anything in the handle (just the black electric latch attached to the edge of the door with 2 triple square bolts) and I did re-attach the little stud with the snap over collar. Maybe I didn't get the paddle in the receptacle? I'll have to look at that next.
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Old 12-27-2016, 11:56 AM   #13
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Good to hear you got the car open. Maybe if you leave the car in the garage, just don't lock it?
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Old 12-27-2016, 02:05 PM   #14
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Ok the adventure isn't quite over yet. the frunk latch won't engage for the second lock. The safety mechanical lock engages and keeps the hood from popping open but the hood won't close completely ,(second click). Did I pull too hard and the latch hasn't reset? Did I break it? It was going out over the last few months (not popping up all the way), is it just now giving up the ghost?

The frunk open light is NOT lit up on the dash either.

How hard is it to replace the frunk latch mechanism?
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Old 12-27-2016, 02:09 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Good to hear you got the car open. Maybe if you leave the car in the garage, just don't lock it?
No garage, just a carport. I know sacrilegious; and I drive mine everyday too.
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Old 12-27-2016, 02:54 PM   #16
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Ok the adventure isn't quite over yet. the frunk latch won't engage for the second lock. The safety mechanical lock engages and keeps the hood from popping open but the hood won't close completely ,(second click). Did I pull too hard and the latch hasn't reset? Did I break it? It was going out over the last few months (not popping up all the way), is it just now giving up the ghost?

The frunk open light is NOT lit up on the dash either.

How hard is it to replace the frunk latch mechanism?
Here's a tutorial on how to adjust it. It's for a 996, but the latch is the same...

https://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/201-adjusting-the-hood-latch-mechanism/
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Old 12-27-2016, 02:55 PM   #17
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No garage, just a carport. I know sacrilegious; and I drive mine everyday too.
Ok, then I guess it needs to be fixed then. LOL. Nuthin wrong with driving it everyday!
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Old 12-27-2016, 04:18 PM   #18
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Ok success!

24mm deep six sided socket (this was sacrificial for me) with BFH.
Pull wheel off, start at front of liner and remove screws, pops, nuts and torx fasterners.
find cable on other side of headlight (use small screw driver to create a T handle and not cut fingers), pull pretty hard.
Open hood, disconnect battery wait 20 mins for good measure (re-route cable to tow hook thru removed passenger light while waiting), re-attach battery and presto; remote works again,

I didn't change anything in the handle (just the black electric latch attached to the edge of the door with 2 triple square bolts) and I did re-attach the little stud with the snap over collar. Maybe I didn't get the paddle in the receptacle? I'll have to look at that next.
Good Work! Now take the lock lug bolt key and remove the other wheel locks and toss them, then have Woody send you 4 lug bolts to be rid of the locks 4EVER!!!!

And yes if you don't remember reaching in and guiding the paddle home then I'd say that will solve the key issue.

You might pull the trim panel between the bumper and frunk and see if somehow the manual release cable is stuck in the unlatch position. But all in all seems to be a successful de-fubaring!
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Old 12-28-2016, 01:41 AM   #19
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Ordered 4 bolts from Woody yesterday lol.

Off on a quick trip today (and maybe tomorrow). Then I'll need to sort out the paddle and the frunk release.

Thanks for the help so far!
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Old 01-01-2017, 11:40 AM   #20
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Ok. Replaced the frunk switch since mine was weak and going. The emergency wire had locked the switch in the "open" position. Still not happy with the routing of the wire, seems very restrictive even routed to the tow hook opening. The frunk switch has a cable wire at the bottom with a press fit end connector. I had to go to an auto parts store and use a wire stop that screwed onto the wire after I cut the old one off. Will need to remove front bumper and see if I can find the interference.

The paddle was indeed not in the lock. Thanks for pointing this out.

All lock bolts replaced. Managed to salvage the 24mm deep socket too.

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