Aluminum diagonal brace

[DWBOX2000]

My right side diagonal brace does not want to go on. It was tough to get off so I was expecting this. My mechanic had mentioned it was tough to put back on when he did some work a few months ago. The car drives straight as an arrow. Are the four bolts in a straight line. The one third from the front doesn't seem in line with the other three. Not sure if it's that or the brace is bent.
Any suggestions?

[rick3000]

Are you referring to the diamond shaped plate under the transmission?
When you say it won't go back on, are you having trouble getting one of the bolts in, or all of them?

If you can get most of the bolts in, I would take it to an alignment shop and have them reinstall the final bolt, and check the alignment, which can get thrown off by removing the brace.

Here is some more info on dealing with it:
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/56230-rear-diagonal-brace-removal-question.html
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/53796-can-not-get-transmission-cover-back.html

[DWBOX2000]

I just put a straight edge against the side. It is not straight. The other side (left) is straight. Are they both suppose to be straight?
I did not remove the chassis reinforcement plate. I just took off the four nuts back to front and loosen the nuts under the sill. I had to wrestle off. Left side came right off and went back on. I guess I start there.

[DWBOX2000]

I'll check again tomorrow with more light. Thanks for the response.

[Smallblock454]

Hello DWBOX2000,

are the rear wheels mounted on the car? Remove them. They pull the axles down.

Also you can support the axles a little bit. The brace should than move in / out without force.

Regards, Markus

[DWBOX2000]

Wheel is off. I'll try a little pressure tonight.
Thank you,
David

[steved0x]

Some folks have had to put a ratchet strap on the structure and pull those two bolts together. Or if you have a rear suspension support bar, like the techno brace, this provides additional support and keeps those two points together. You probably don't want to spend any more $$$, but this would be the perfect time to install one. I've got one, and the last time I had the sheet metal brace off it went back on easy The first time I had the brace off it was pretty tough to get back on... I had to use a rubber mallet.

Porsche Boxster Rear Suspension Support and Pedro Bar - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article

[DWBOX2000]

Well I talked to my mechanic. I was told I should not have lowered the left (all done) without the right support on. It could warp the suspension. I did not see any mention of this in the instructions I used. I could have missed. I thought I was helping since the car had been on jacks for 2 weeks. I thought it would relieve some stress. Ughhh.

It was a bear to get off. Left came right off and went back on without a hitch.

Thanks.

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by DWBOX2000

Well I talked to my mechanic. I was told I should not have lowered the left (all done) without the right support on. It could warp the suspension.

If the car is up on 4 jack stands while the work is done, I don't see how this could affect anything.

I don't think you are supposed to put the car down on 4 wheels with those diagonal braces and sheet metal brace off though (although with a quick search I can't find my reference for that). Did you do the work by jacking up a corner at a time? If not you should be OK. Even if so, you probably would just need an alignment, which you need anyway due to the new lowered springs.

[DWBOX2000]

Thanks Steve.

I had the front on the ground at all time.

I raised the whole back and then proceeded with the steps. I got all the way with both except connecting the axles and braces while the entire rear was in the air. I connected the left axle and brace and lowered. Actually lI connected the left brace before doing the left axle if it matters. Immediately moved onto right. Connected axle and then tried to put on brace. Brace wont go on.

As I mention, it was a bear to get off.

Not sure it would matter but when the IMS was done (500 miles ago), the mechanic left a few nuts and a bolt off that I realized at home. I think a nut was missing on the brace, one on the mount that supports the tranny (At rear of car - hangs down) and some other bolt I didn't realize. I noticed at home after 500 miles or so and drove back to shop which the nuts were then added.

[Gelbster]

So what is the consensus on the Pedro Bar mentioned by Steve ?
Has anyone made their own diy version ?
This type of mod is common on many other cars - Miata ,S2000, BMW.

Porsche Boxster Rear Suspension Support and Pedro Bar - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article[/QUOTE]

Insite & other well respected members had some great ideas:
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/10817-driving-impressions-lower-stress-bar.html
http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/12915-diy-rear-suspension-brace.html
This looks simple?
http://www.cheetahonline.com/products-page/porsche/porsche-rear-suspension-brace-3/
This link above loads slowly -be patient.

[78F350]

I just put one of mine back together yesterday. Some of this may be helpful.
http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/63154-replacing-rear-suspension-bracket.html#post510170

[rick3000]

Originally Posted by Gelbster

So what is the consensus on the Pedro Bar mentioned by Steve ?
Has anyone made their own diy version ?
This type of mod is common on many other cars - Miata ,S2000, BMW.

Porsche Boxster Rear Suspension Support and Pedro Bar - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article

I made one back when it first appeared on 986forum, very simple, cost about $12, versus Pedro's expensive, albeit shiny bar.
More info here:
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/10817-driving-impressions-lower-stress-bar.html

[steved0x]

Several folks have made their own a while back, there is a thread here somewhere about it (oh it looks like you kinked it with your edit). I think a few other vendors, rennline might be one, that sell a version of this bar.

[NewArt]

You just have to push and pull. I used ratchet straps, as Steve mentioned. Alignment may or may not be necessary, but it never hurts (when all the work is done).

[Gelbster]

Some of the links and photos have 'died' in this old thread.
rbcbearing.com has a good pdf showing the solid rod ends available
Here is a current Speedway Motors link for tube and joints:
for example a 1" o.d. x 18"x 3/4"-16 tube(measure yourself!!) is here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Speedway-IMCA-Approved-3-4-Thread-Swedged-Steel-Tube-18-Inches-Long-/261872099895?hash=item3cf8cb2237:g:HuMAAOSwBLlVQsx B&vxp=mtr
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Swedged-Steel-Tube-3-4-Inch-Thread,2091.html
cheap solid rod end LH:
Standard Steel Heim Joint Rod Ends, 3/4-16 LH Male
You would need RH and the correct bore size for the bolt (7/16" = 0.4375")

[Smallblock454]

Originally Posted by Gelbster

Some of the links and photos have 'died' in this old thread.
rbcbearing.com has a good pdf showing the solid rod ends available
Here is a current Speedway Motors link for tube and joints:
for example a 1" o.d. x 18"x 3/4"-16 tube(measure yourself!!) is here:
Speedway IMCA Approved 3/4 Thread Swedged Steel Tube, 18 Inches Long
Swedged Steel Tube, 3/4 Inch Thread
cheap solid rod end LH:
Standard Steel Heim Joint Rod Ends, 3/4-16 LH Male
You would need RH and the correct bore size for the bolt (7/16" = 0.4375")

Hello Gelbster.

did someone exact measurements for a Ernie / Pedos solution?

I'm asking because today i did a little tour with some Porsche friends in the Black Forest. Mostly cars with a little more power than mine. And my problem besides a failing front brake (by fading) was a not very unstable rear. Not shure if all motor / transmission mounts are OK (will check that too). But it seems that the rear was kind of unstable at narrow high speed corners on the brake and with strong acceleration. No so much a problem when corner were protracted and speed was higher > 100 Km/h and above.

So i think an additional lower stabilizer bar might be a good idea. Also did order new Brembo HP 2000 brake pads some days ago and will also do a brakefluid change. Did a change last year, but not shure about the brakefluid used. Seems the right front brake has a problem. Will also replace all stabilizer rubbers.

Regards, Markus

PS:
This car did also attend. Technically it's a 993 chassis with a 300 HP engine. Very fast car. because it weights less than 1.300 KG.

[DWBOX2000]

I'm currently on my own again. Front to back I can get the first two bolts to line up in the brace. The next two I can see 1/2 the bolt end when looking up and through, so it is close. It is clear, the two bolts are bent a smudge towards the right tire. Can I put a nut on bolt and try to bend back with a hammer? How about just making the holes a little bigger. Laying on my back, I am not in a good position to whack the brace because of its location. Desperation has set in.

[DWBOX2000]

Back together. My friend came over. He was a little less gentle than I.

[Gelbster]

Originally Posted by Gelbster

Some of the links and photos have 'died' in this old thread.
rbcbearing.com has a good pdf showing the solid rod ends available
Here is a current Speedway Motors link for tube and joints:
for example a 1" o.d. x 18"x 3/4"-16 tube(measure yourself!!) is here:
Speedway IMCA Approved 3/4 Thread Swedged Steel Tube, 18 Inches Long | eBay
Swedged Steel Tube, 3/4 Inch Thread
cheap solid rod end LH:
Standard Steel Heim Joint Rod Ends, 3/4-16 LH Male
You would need RH and the correct bore size for the bolt (7/16" = 0.4375")

http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/10817-driving-impressions-lower-stress-bar-3.html