Aluminum diagonal brace
 

My right side diagonal brace does not want to go on. It was tough to get off so I was expecting this. My mechanic had mentioned it was tough to put back on when he did some work a few months ago. The car drives straight as an arrow. Are the four bolts in a straight line. The one third from the front doesn't seem in line with the other three. Not sure if it's that or the brace is bent.
Any suggestions?

Are you referring to the diamond shaped plate under the transmission?
When you say it won't go back on, are you having trouble getting one of the bolts in, or all of them?

If you can get most of the bolts in, I would take it to an alignment shop and have them reinstall the final bolt, and check the alignment, which can get thrown off by removing the brace.

Here is some more info on dealing with it:
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/56230-rear-diagonal-brace-removal-question.html
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/53796-can-not-get-transmission-cover-back.html

I just put a straight edge against the side. It is not straight. The other side (left) is straight. Are they both suppose to be straight?
I did not remove the chassis reinforcement plate. I just took off the four nuts back to front and loosen the nuts under the sill. I had to wrestle off. Left side came right off and went back on. I guess I start there.

I'll check again tomorrow with more light. Thanks for the response.

Hello DWBOX2000,

are the rear wheels mounted on the car? Remove them. They pull the axles down.

Also you can support the axles a little bit. The brace should than move in / out without force.

Regards, Markus

Wheel is off. I'll try a little pressure tonight.
Thank you,
David

Some folks have had to put a ratchet strap on the structure and pull those two bolts together. Or if you have a rear suspension support bar, like the techno brace, this provides additional support and keeps those two points together. You probably don't want to spend any more $$$, but this would be the perfect time to install one. I've got one, and the last time I had the sheet metal brace off it went back on easy :) The first time I had the brace off it was pretty tough to get back on... I had to use a rubber mallet.

Porsche Boxster Rear Suspension Support and Pedro Bar - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article

Well I talked to my mechanic. I was told I should not have lowered the left (all done) without the right support on. It could warp the suspension. I did not see any mention of this in the instructions I used. I could have missed. I thought I was helping since the car had been on jacks for 2 weeks. I thought it would relieve some stress. Ughhh.

It was a bear to get off. Left came right off and went back on without a hitch.

Thanks.

If the car is up on 4 jack stands while the work is done, I don't see how this could affect anything.

I don't think you are supposed to put the car down on 4 wheels with those diagonal braces and sheet metal brace off though (although with a quick search I can't find my reference for that). Did you do the work by jacking up a corner at a time? If not you should be OK. Even if so, you probably would just need an alignment, which you need anyway due to the new lowered springs.

Thanks Steve.

I had the front on the ground at all time.

I raised the whole back and then proceeded with the steps. I got all the way with both except connecting the axles and braces while the entire rear was in the air. I connected the left axle and brace and lowered. Actually lI connected the left brace before doing the left axle if it matters. Immediately moved onto right. Connected axle and then tried to put on brace. Brace wont go on.

As I mention, it was a bear to get off.

Not sure it would matter but when the IMS was done (500 miles ago), the mechanic left a few nuts and a bolt off that I realized at home. I think a nut was missing on the brace, one on the mount that supports the tranny (At rear of car - hangs down) and some other bolt I didn't realize. I noticed at home after 500 miles or so and drove back to shop which the nuts were then added.

So what is the consensus on the Pedro Bar mentioned by Steve ?
Has anyone made their own diy version ?
This type of mod is common on many other cars - Miata ,S2000, BMW.

Porsche Boxster Rear Suspension Support and Pedro Bar - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article[/QUOTE]

Insite & other well respected members had some great ideas:
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/10817-driving-impressions-lower-stress-bar.html
http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/12915-diy-rear-suspension-brace.html
This looks simple?
http://www.cheetahonline.com/products-page/porsche/porsche-rear-suspension-brace-3/
This link above loads slowly -be patient.

Several folks have made their own a while back, there is a thread here somewhere about it (oh it looks like you kinked it with your edit). I think a few other vendors, rennline might be one, that sell a version of this bar.

I just put one of mine back together yesterday. Some of this may be helpful.
http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/63154-replacing-rear-suspension-bracket.html#post510170

I made one back when it first appeared on 986forum, very simple, cost about $12, versus Pedro's expensive, albeit shiny bar.
More info here: :cheers:
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/10817-driving-impressions-lower-stress-bar.html

You just have to push and pull. I used ratchet straps, as Steve mentioned. Alignment may or may not be necessary, but it never hurts (when all the work is done).

Some of the links and photos have 'died' in this old thread.
rbcbearing.com has a good pdf showing the solid rod ends available
Here is a current Speedway Motors link for tube and joints:
for example a 1" o.d. x 18"x 3/4"-16 tube(measure yourself!!) is here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Speedway-IMCA-Approved-3-4-Thread-Swedged-Steel-Tube-18-Inches-Long-/261872099895?hash=item3cf8cb2237:g:HuMAAOSwBLlVQsx B&vxp=mtr
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Swedged-Steel-Tube-3-4-Inch-Thread,2091.html
cheap solid rod end LH:
Standard Steel Heim Joint Rod Ends, 3/4-16 LH Male
You would need RH and the correct bore size for the bolt (7/16" = 0.4375")

Gelbster, I have a folder in my 986 archive with all the original pictures from the 'Driving Impressions' thread. If you PM your email, I will send it over. :cheers:

Hello Gelbster,

the good idea of the Pedros / Ernie design is that you fix the head of the bolt with the bar itself. There is not much / no room to access it, if you want to mount it above.

Shure, you can also mount it below and use the parts you've mentioned. I personally would always prefer the above solution.

In general i think the products are overpriced, because they are not too complicate to fabricate.

There is also a triangular solution. Don't know how good product quality is: PORSCHE BOXSTER 986 ULTRA RACING 4-point Rear Lower Bar UR-RL4-1105

Because it seems to be jammed on the connection points, i think it's not as stable as the Pedros / Ernie design.

Regards, Markus

Going back and forth with Woody, the car was hit on the right side right where the brace attaches next to the jacking point. Woody was able to know the mounts from my pictures weren't correct for the car. Applying magnet to sheet metal confirms bondo as well. That bolt seemed to float a bit compared to left side.
Car drove great before so goal for now is to get the brace on. I will eventually need to go to body shop and have them fix everything correctly. That's a ways away unfortunately.😢
David

That is a great deal at $107 ! From Malaysia !

My mechanic recommended putting a ratchet stap on the two wheels and pulling them together. Do I put the strap through the rims and torque away? How much can I torque? Suggestions?

Until the bolt moves :) Shouldn't be much.

Your mechanic may be the best one to ask. I'd say, Just enough to move it unless it doesn't move with 'moderate' force.
Looking at the rear frame structure, the lower end of the 'side section bracket' is the part that you are going to be moving. The front part of it is bolted to the crossmember and will not move much. The aft lower part of the bracket is most likely the part that needs to be adjusted and it should move without a lot of force. With the diagonal brace and sheet metal plate off, the only thing providing stiffness to it is the connection to the stabilizer bar (through a rubber bushing).
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1474032263.jpg

When I did this, I did not pull on the wheels, that would seem to place a lot of stress on a lot of components that I didn't want to stress. Instead, I put the ratchet strap on the rear suspension brackets. Also, have the wheel alignment checked when you're done.

Thanks guys. I was just out there (day off after 9/15 tax deadline) and decided to throw the towel in. There are too many things that could go wrong. My mechanic is going to come down next week and help me out. He was able to get it on before with straps. Bummed I didn't cross the finish line. It would have been my biggest automotive feat to date.

Thanks everyone for all your help.
David

That picture is very helpful 78f350. Thanks.

Look at how much you did! You got a little help at the end, no worries :) Still you biggest automotive feat!

Hello Gelbster.

did someone exact measurements for a Ernie / Pedos solution?

I'm asking because today i did a little tour with some Porsche friends in the Black Forest. Mostly cars with a little more power than mine. And my problem besides a failing front brake (by fading) was a not very unstable rear. Not shure if all motor / transmission mounts are OK (will check that too). But it seems that the rear was kind of unstable at narrow high speed corners on the brake and with strong acceleration. No so much a problem when corner were protracted and speed was higher > 100 Km/h and above.

So i think an additional lower stabilizer bar might be a good idea. Also did order new Brembo HP 2000 brake pads some days ago and will also do a brakefluid change. Did a change last year, but not shure about the brakefluid used. Seems the right front brake has a problem. Will also replace all stabilizer rubbers.

Regards, Markus

PS:
This car did also attend. Technically it's a 993 chassis with a 300 HP engine. Very fast car. because it weights less than 1.300 KG.

http://www.mostreliablecarbrands.com...ergreen-22.jpg
http://www.mostreliablecarbrands.com...ergreen-33.jpg

I'm currently on my own again. Front to back I can get the first two bolts to line up in the brace. The next two I can see 1/2 the bolt end when looking up and through, so it is close. It is clear, the two bolts are bent a smudge towards the right tire. Can I put a nut on bolt and try to bend back with a hammer? How about just making the holes a little bigger. Laying on my back, I am not in a good position to whack the brace because of its location. Desperation has set in.

Or a block of wood and whack?

Desperation +Hammer+ confined space is not a good combo.
Suggest you wait for a few comments to help avert a disaster.
What happened to the ratchet strap idea?They are cheap ,safe and controllable.Harbor Freight has them, less tan $20 with your 10% off coupon:
3300 lb. Capacity 2 in. x 27 ft. Heavy Duty Ratcheting Tie Down 1 Pc
Get the free mini flashlight while you are there. It fits in your mouth (!) so you have both hands free while you are crawling around under the car like a lizard.
Take your time & be safe !

I tried the straps. First, not a good place to grab. They slide to the good area. Second, the brace twists as pressure is put on it. It does not stay flat.
Thanks for responding.
I have light and I have two large wood blocks next to me at all times so the car can't not fall on me.

Hello DWBOX2000,

don't widen the holes. That is a very bad idea, because you ruin the geometry. This brace is a big stabilizer for the rear axle construction.

Is it too wide or too tight?

Where exactly is it too wide or too tight? Direction front of car or rear of the car?

Where exactly did you put the strap and did you use 2 straps (front / rear)?

Regards, Markus

The strap I put on was connected to the brace on both ends of the strap. I looped through the tire and started pulling. The two bolts that do line up were held in place with the car jack.
As mentioned, I can see 1/2 of the bolts when I look up through the holes so I am close. I will try and post pictures later.
Thanks.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1474373693.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1474373719.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1474373730.jpg

It is the two closet bolts in the picture that are not lining up. Both bolts curve towards the right wheel. Can I put a block of wood on the two bolts and whack them back to line up? This a bad idea?
Thanks,

David

For as much effort as you're putting into trying to get the holes to line up, you might as well go ahead and replace that bent cross member along with the correct rear subframe.

If I was going to whack something to get those bolts in the holes it would be the free end of the diagonal brace with a rubber mallet.

Ah, OK, i thought you'd have problems to get the aluminium brace in. See picture attached.

Where the bolts marked green and yellow in general don't make any problems, but the bots marked red can make problems to fit to the aluminium brace.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1474374494.jpg

I'm not shure if all bolts are in one line. If they are and it is only a problem to get the 2 bolts on the red arrows side in line with the aluminium brace, this could easliy corrected with a ratched strap.

If the bolts are not in line on one side, this cross member has to be replaced.

Regards, Markus

I don't disagree with Markus and Woody, but also not sure I totally understand the issue. If I understand the problem correctly, you are trying to get the two right rear bolts to line up. Try using the strap on the mounting point for the stabilizer bar brackets.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1474375720.jpg