09-20-2016, 02:00 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: LB, Germany
Posts: 1,515
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Hello DWBOX2000,
don't widen the holes. That is a very bad idea, because you ruin the geometry. This brace is a big stabilizer for the rear axle construction.
Is it too wide or too tight?
Where exactly is it too wide or too tight? Direction front of car or rear of the car?
Where exactly did you put the strap and did you use 2 straps (front / rear)?
Regards, Markus
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09-20-2016, 03:09 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Scituate MA
Posts: 929
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The strap I put on was connected to the brace on both ends of the strap. I looped through the tire and started pulling. The two bolts that do line up were held in place with the car jack.
As mentioned, I can see 1/2 of the bolts when I look up through the holes so I am close. I will try and post pictures later.
Thanks.
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09-20-2016, 04:20 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Bastrop, Tx
Posts: 2,644
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For as much effort as you're putting into trying to get the holes to line up, you might as well go ahead and replace that bent cross member along with the correct rear subframe.
__________________
Woody
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09-20-2016, 04:15 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Scituate MA
Posts: 929
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09-20-2016, 04:18 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Scituate MA
Posts: 929
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It is the two closet bolts in the picture that are not lining up. Both bolts curve towards the right wheel. Can I put a block of wood on the two bolts and whack them back to line up? This a bad idea?
Thanks,
David
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09-20-2016, 04:26 AM
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#6
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Motorist & Coffee Drinker
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 3,940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWBOX2000
It is the two closet bolts in the picture that are not lining up. Both bolts curve towards the right wheel. Can I put a block of wood on the two bolts and whack them back to line up? This a bad idea?
Thanks,
David
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If I was going to whack something to get those bolts in the holes it would be the free end of the diagonal brace with a rubber mallet.
__________________
I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril.
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09-20-2016, 04:32 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: LB, Germany
Posts: 1,515
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Ah, OK, i thought you'd have problems to get the aluminium brace in. See picture attached.
Where the bolts marked green and yellow in general don't make any problems, but the bots marked red can make problems to fit to the aluminium brace.
I'm not shure if all bolts are in one line. If they are and it is only a problem to get the 2 bolts on the red arrows side in line with the aluminium brace, this could easliy corrected with a ratched strap.
If the bolts are not in line on one side, this cross member has to be replaced.
Regards, Markus
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09-20-2016, 04:51 AM
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#8
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Motorist & Coffee Drinker
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 3,940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallblock454
Ah, OK, i thought you'd have problems to get the aluminium brace in. See picture attached.
Where the bolts marked green and yellow in general don't make any problems, but the bots marked red can make problems to fit to the aluminium brace.
I'm not shure if all bolts are in one line. If they are and it is only a problem to get the 2 bolts on the red arrows side in line with the aluminium brace, this could easliy corrected with a ratched strap.
If the bolts are not in line on one side, this cross member has to be replaced.
Regards, Markus
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I don't disagree with Markus and Woody, but also not sure I totally understand the issue. If I understand the problem correctly, you are trying to get the two right rear bolts to line up. Try using the strap on the mounting point for the stabilizer bar brackets.
__________________
I am not an attorney, mechanic, or member of the clergy. Following any advice given in my posts is done at your own peril.
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09-20-2016, 09:14 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Bastrop, Tx
Posts: 2,644
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His car was in an accident at some point in it's life before the OP took ownership of it. His boxster has had body work done in front of the right rear tire. He texted me pictures of his car and the right rear subframe is off a 97 boxster. I'm guessing that the car took a hard hit that broke the original subframe and bent the cross member. Whoever fixed it put the wrong subframe on and I'm guessing didn't replace the cross member either. I'm thinking the cross member is causing the subframe to tilt at angle and not letting the op to put the brace back on. He said he's wanting to take it to a body shop and that's a good idea.
__________________
Woody
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09-20-2016, 06:03 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: SE Ma
Posts: 261
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You could also try loosening the bolts that hold the aluminum bracket to the chassis, get all studs to line up and then tighten all nuts & bolts to spec. Strongly recommend an alignment after this as this may change your rear toe.
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09-20-2016, 08:48 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: LB, Germany
Posts: 1,515
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Hello,
if the aluminium brace doesn't fit you have bolt everything together without. Maybe its a good idea to fabricate a brace made of plywood that fits between the both side sections so they can't twist. Or use a lower brace like the Ernie/Pedro one that connects the side sections.
Very important: don't drive or trailer/tow it behind another car the car without that brace.
Regards, Markus
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09-21-2016, 07:40 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: LB, Germany
Posts: 1,515
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Hi,
if you enlarge the holes to fit the bolts, you'll have a problem, because under driving conditions the bolt can move over time and also you wont have the correct position if you install a new side member later on. That means the geometry of the rear axle might not be 100% correct or might not be staying 100% correct over time.
If you say OK, i'll buy a new aluminium brace anyway, you can widen the holes. But i wouldn't because these brace is expensive. So i would go with a interim solution self built kind of brace made of plywood or something else to connect the side sections, so that i can transport the car to the shop without having danger to twist or damage the good side section / cross member or anything else. Or i would use a Ernie/Pedro brace which will connect the section members and you could also use it later on if the car is repaired as an additional stabilizer.
Hope you've got the idea behind that interim solution brace.
Regards, Markus
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09-22-2016, 03:42 AM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: LB, Germany
Posts: 1,515
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My preferred tools are:
- big rubber mallet
- long crowbar
- strong strap with ratched
- pneumatic screwdriver
- propane torch
Regards, Markus
Last edited by Smallblock454; 09-22-2016 at 03:51 AM.
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09-26-2016, 05:23 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: SATX
Posts: 41
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Future Refernce
With the wheels and tires on, place a speed jack under the muffler to tranny mount. Slowly jack the trans up. The bolts will line up. The weight of the tires will cause the suspension to settle inward and line up the bolts.
__________________
2001 Base with 2002 3.2 DIY swap 97 "short shift" tip "Joe Toth" aerodynamics, Z top, painted headlights.
2001 Boxster 5 speed
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09-27-2016, 10:33 PM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: LB, Germany
Posts: 1,515
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You should be able to login via phone and post pictures via phone. Aren't you?
Or you can upload your photos to a could service like dropbox or photo bucket … and link them to your post.
If you have an iphone, make shure the image type is .jpg and not .jpeg. .jpeg doesn't work.
Regards, Markus
Last edited by Smallblock454; 09-27-2016 at 11:05 PM.
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09-30-2016, 04:46 AM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Scituate MA
Posts: 929
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Attached is the final result.
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09-30-2016, 05:41 AM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: FL
Posts: 4,144
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Looks great!
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