Switched Fuse Slot

[ttmedical]

Hi everyone, I wanted to share some things I learned when trying to hardwire a dashcam into the car. I suppose this will also work for a radar detector, laser detector, and maybe a low caliber electrically operated turret hahah! Anyway, there are plenty of guides for how to access the space in the headliner and the A pillar (which required more force than I thought) to run the wire to the fuse box on the driver's side.

What the guides don't mention is where you can find a switched fuse space that I could add to using the "Add-a-circuit" product. I discovered that D10 is for accessories but it is an “always on”, at least for 20 minutes after I removed the key, closed the door, and locked the car, so no go there. I found that E8 worked for me (it's for the optional phone). Funnily enough, E6 is as well (E8 is listed as Terminal 15 and E6 as Terminal 30, maybe someone can elucidate what that means). E8 provides ample power to the dashcam (mine is a Rexing V1) but it switches off when you move the key to the car off position instead of when you remove the key. I may tinker with some more mods so I can get the cam to activate when it senses motion but I really don’t want to accidentally drain the battery. I hope this helps anyone about to do any hardwiring project!

[stelan]

Cool, good info

[oldskool73]

I could be wrong, but I think the terminal 15/30 refer to this:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_72552

15 : battery+ through ignition switch
30 : from battery+ direct

[ttmedical]

Originally Posted by oldskool73

I could be wrong, but I think the terminal 15/30 refer to this:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_72552

15 : battery+ through ignition switch
30 : from battery+ direct

Huh, maybe! I tried the E8 slot first and when it seemed to work I didn't bother trying the other one. Good to know that E6 is direct and most likely constant. I was getting sweaty and frustrated with finding a ground for the dash cam wire so I called it a day.

On a related note, DO NOT hardwire a dashcam or radar detector straight into any fuse slot. They are all 12V and your device most likely will be needing 5V. The cigarette lighter charger does this conversion for you so I had to buy a female cigarette lighter socket, add that to the "add-a-circuit" and plug all of that into the fuse box. I found a ground hole at the top left of the fuse box if you face it but access is difficult and you'll be in a position similar to changing the ignition switch. You'll need a screw and a nut to tighten any wire with a ring connector onto it.

Conversely, I believe you can find a guide that details how to add a 12V -> 5V converter and put that in line to the add-a-circuit. It will be less wires but I went with the cheapest option that'll get the job done.

Even though I've been a member of this forum for nearly 3 years, I haven't had the opportunity to contribute much since everyone posts so much information. This is my chance to hopefully add something to the plethora of knowledge!

[kjc2050]

Thanks for the post. I too had a bear of a time finding a grounding point beneath the driver's side dash.

[Gelbster]

I used one of these.Some are just $5!
https://www.amazon.com/Arpenkin-Dashboard-Camera-Dashcam-Recorder/dp/B013AVE6T6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1471384127&sr=8-4-fkmr0&keywords=dashcam+willgo+hardwire+kit
DO NOT USE 12V on a 5V device.

[Mark_T]

Originally Posted by ttmedical

...and maybe a low caliber electrically operated turret hahah!

Timco... sounds like your kind of project!

[Pdwight]

Originally Posted by kjc2050

Thanks for the post. I too had a bear of a time finding a grounding point beneath the driver's side dash.

There is a 10 mm nut right behind the instrument cluster

[ttmedical]

Originally Posted by Pdwight

There is a 10 mm nut right behind the instrument cluster

Damn it Pdwight, where the hell were you when I was tearing my rotator cuff!?