I disagree. When it's 115 it's really nice to have a hardtop. Especially with the window tinted.

The key to your search will be patience. You will eventually find the right car. You will just have to sift through all of the unloved ones. When you find the right one, you will know. At least you will think you know. Make sure you get a PPI once you find the one! Even if you are going to wrench on it, you want to know what you are getting into. There are lots of gotchas on these cars and hopefully the PPI will allow you to buy a project car that is not too much of a project! There is a wealth of information on this forum so don't hesitate to ask. Good luck in your search and welcome to the forum! :cheers:

Take a look at the Los Angeles market. There are a ton of Boxsters for sale out here. Find one and I'll pick you up at the airport and take you to it. A fun 500 mile drive and you're home!

No true either. For the countless time...

Error codes showing bad O2 sensor(s) only mean value being reported from sensor is outside of norm. Period.

Before replacing ANY O2 sensor you need to find out WHY it/they caused error code. Could be MAF is bad but you won't know until after you've thrown many $100 at sensors and subsequently a couple more at a new MAF. Maybe mice chewed thru lead wire of one... you only need to replace that one, or for some odd reason one prematurely fails - no need to replace 3 others when they test fine. After all they're sold as 'eaches' for a reason and not pairs or sets like brake pads.

O2 sensors are easily tested w/ a multi-meter to find out if good or not. Only then should you replace bad one(s). Personally, I've had O2 sensors outlast others by more than 20,000 miles regardless of B / S positioning.

Should one replace all four tires and TPMS valve stems every time TPMS light illuminates - or just "in pairs" as you prescribe? ;)

Yeah I'm clear on how you diagnose an o2 sensor issue. I had the same advice when I had an issue with my pre cat o2 sensors. Took a lot of diagnosis. Finally my mechanic found an o2 sensor wasn't conforming and had quite high resistance. Offered to change both. I said just the bad one. A month later the other one went out. So yeah, if they are the same age and one has a confirmed issue, I think it makes sense to replace them in pairs. By your logic if all my tires are old but only one goes flat I should only replace the flat tire right? It's called preventative maintenance for a reason.

I'd ask old or worn out tires but that's moot b/c you wouldn't have any since you replace all every time the TPMS light came on ;)

I have an 02. No TPMS ;)

I will say I do see your point. Don't fix what ain't broke. My experience was that the o2 sensors in my car were like two old people that had been married 50 years. Once the one died the other one went soon after. Really a sad and poignant love story. For o2 sensors.

I have bought plenty of Boxsters for around $5k or less. I have not regretted one, but I consider it fun to take on the challenge of fixing them and learning about them.

First Boxster (Black '99) had a few cosmetic issues, but has been a great running car. Over 1-1/2 years, it didn't need anything other than normal maintenance. Just sold it for over $5k with 141k miles and running strong. Got well over my money's worth of fun driving it.

Second Boxster ('01) was water damaged salvage and had a non-repairable engine. On the road and running great for a 'net' of about $4K after buying a parts car for the engine and selling a few key parts.

Third Boxster (Silver '99) salvage from a front end collision. After fees and repairs, I'm in for about $5k again and I absolutely love the car.

It goes on, but you may get the idea. You CAN get a good Boxster for about $5k. It just involves risk assessment/mitigation, lots of DIY, some parts from Woody, and help and advice of the Forum members.

Perhaps I am riding on the ragged edge of Boxster ownership. I do not fear a 'Salvage' or 'Rebuilt' title if I clearly understand why it has that label. Many cars with unbranded titles may have worse damage hidden. I do my own PPI mostly to assess what my total loss will be if I have to scrap the car. If it's a gain at my price, it's a go.

I would have made an offer on the first car you posted. An offer low enough that I would expect it to be turned down. Heck, buy the worst one you can find for the lowest you can get it. Tear it apart. Find out what makes it tick ...and then buy one that isn't ticking quite so loudly.

Good luck, and have fun with it. :cheers:

I'm off tomorrow, so I am going to go down and take a look at it. I got access to an iCarsoft POR II (not debating it vs. Durametric, it was available to use for free) and I'm going to check to see what codes it is giving. I'll be looking for the obvious blown head, will watch the tach to maybe test for CPS while cranking it (if it doesn't throw a code), listen for the fuel pump and relay, and just look it over in general. If it looks good, I may take the risk. You saw that I am prepared to work on myself and learn the car. Any other apparent things you all can think to look for in a non runner? Thanks!

Again, I have TMI:

Search for how to jump the fuel relay. *Consider that suddenly making the car run, may be bad for negotiations.

Aside from why it doesn't run:

Have a way to jack the car up.

It is easy to pull the oil filter and get a look at the oil and filter. It takes a 76mm 14 flute filter wrench. Have a pan or papers to catch the drips, but no oil should run out as long as it's fairly level. Bring a magnet. A few aluminum sparkles and very tiny bits of plastic or sealant may be okay.

Put the top in the service position. Pull the storage compartment, and engine cover. Leaks? Cracked plastic? Does anything not look 'factory'? Has the owner messed with anything trying to fix it?

Don't laser focus on just the engine.

Look over the undercarriage. Are the plastic belly pans intact. Leaks? Hoses straight and secured? Jacking points damaged? Brakes, brake hoses? Heavy tire wear on the inside? Rubber boots, bushings, links...

Do all the proper dash lights come on with the key turned? Windows function properly? HVAC controls work/LCDs good? Headlights - good clear surface, no cracks in corner pieces, burned inner lens?

Frunk: All the plastic covers intact? GOOD spare tire with tools and jack?

Trunk: Clean, no evidence of leaks? Draw some coolant out. Clear? Yellow/green/pink? Non-Porsche coolant can be okay. Mixing coolant types is not okay.

Every little part that you need will cost 3x more than it would for a Ford/Honda....

I saw the ad. Looks clean and cared for in the pics anyway. 4-stalk with OBC. I'd be strong at $3k for a buy as a roller and inch my way up from there if everything else looks good.

Thank you so much for the advice. No, I don't want to make it run in front of the owner, that would drive the price higher. I just want to get a general idea of the condition. I'll take your list with me and work through it.

I think 78F350's advice is excellent. Consider it a roller and buy it as such. If you can't get it running, you can either resell it intact as a roller or part it out, depending on how much time you have.

Well, I bought it. I checked it out. No blown head gasket. No IMS failure. No CEL. Just wouldn't start. I put the icarsoft on it and found no codes being thrown. Just a low battery voltage indicator. The oil and filter looked good. Radiator coolant was clean. Underbelly had all parts. Engine cover was there unmolested. Even had the windscreens. Paid $4k. Having it flat bedded right now. Got it to start after the owner left by jump starting it. It will idle but barely. Really sounding rough.

Congrats! We need pictures though or it didn't happen, forum rules;):D Good luck with it, hopefully it will be an easy fix:cheers:

Welcome to the dark side
I hope it's tune up stuff
Maybe you can make a TV show out of it - call it "Wheeler Dealers"

Congrats! If it was as good as the pictures in the ad and the engine is generally intact, it's a great deal and should be a fun project.

I've been working on my most recent project today. I replaced the AOS and ran it a bit. It ran terrible. Misfires on 5 & 6 (p0300, p0305, p0306). My mind quickly went to some expensive worst case scenarios.

...It was just spark plugs. Two Spark Plugs.

Ok, here are some of the first pics, including a video of it starting.

Here it is getting loaded up:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1455932323.jpg

Here it is getting delivered:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1455932432.jpg

Only real body damage I can find:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1455932476.jpg

I've got some video of it starting, and subsequently dying upon application of fuel, but I don't know how to post videos here.

Here's the video:

Looks like in the video you have a slow blinking light on the temp gauge when it is running - Low coolant level. Just get some DISTILLED Water for now to top it off.

After you get it running well, I'd recommend a coolant flush and replace the water pump, unless you know it was done. I think replacement every 3-5 years is the recommended interval. (search it)

Check your coolant cap in the trunk for a leak. Make sure you have the new style cap. (search it)

Again, congrats! :cheers:

Thanks! I'll work on the coolant level tomorrow. As for the stumbling, I'll start checking out the plugs and coil packs, and clean the MAF. And charge or replace the battery. It was unable to even turn over shortly after the video without a jump.