Torque wrench
 

Good suggestions? I was looking for something that got as low as 7ft lbs. Just for DIY stuff.
Thanks
David

I have all three of the harbor freight ones (except for the 3/4 one) and they all work for what I use them for. If you have money burning a hole in your pocket then you can feel free to climb the price ladder.

7 ft lbs = 84 inch lbs; You get what you pay for with Harbor Freight. Having said that, I have a bunch of their tools in my collection. I have their 3/8 torque wrench and it works well. They claim +/- 4%.

1/4 in. Drive Click Type Torque Wrench

If you are looking at 7 ftlbs, I am guessing you are changing a waterpump.

Get a 1/4" one. 2 reasons. first, that is a low torque value and would be a the bottom of a 3/8" wrench and will not be very accurate at the low end of the range. 2nd, a 1/4" one will be a lot easier to fit in the area

the HF one is fine for occasional DIY stuff and if you search for coupons, they often are on sale for $10-$12

Yeah, the 3/8 will twist those bolts right off. You need the 1/4 for that low.

Yes, wAter pump and spark plugs. Harbor freight seems logical for the amounts I am using.

There is a craftsman at Sears 3/8 inch drive which I think was for 20-140lbs ( don't quote me on that) for $40. 1/2 price. Couldn't use on pump. Maybe I will buy thAt and get the smaller one at harbor freight.

Thanks
David

Got your priorities backwards on that!

I've got the Craftsman torque wrench and two HF torque wrenches, including the 1/4" in/pounds wrench. All still read within spec when I had them calibrated.

I have a $10 Harbor Freight 1/2" torque wrench. I only use (and trust) it for my lug nuts. For everything else, I use a recently calibrated Snap On 3/8" wrench.

Good for you, however not everyone can afford pro quality tools as a diy mechanic. The harbor freight torque wrenches are just fine for everything I've torqued on my boxster thus far.

I find the HF tools to be reasonable good and for my needs are great.
If I was a pro and used my tools all day every day, I would invest in the best I could find.

With a big difference in pricing between cheap and expensive torque wrenches, the average home mechanic can't really tell what's an acceptable quality just by looking.

I've always gone on accuracy when buying a torque wrench - but what is an accepted % accuracy of (say) a quality tool like Snap On vs a cheap Chinese or Indian wrench?
Is a 4% accuracy tool really acceptable especially on critical stuff?

Am I the only one shaking my head at people that would own a Porsche and then buy some cheap piece of crap torque wrench to use on it?

I'm not rolling in money (Mr. Lando would say I am poor), and I am by no means a professional mechanic, or even close, but I have three torque wrenches - 1/4, 3/8. and 1/2 - and they are all Snap-on. I bought them for very reasonable prices on Ebay and then had them checked and calibrated at a local shop. I know I can trust these tools, which is more than I can say for the junk they sell at places like HF or Princess Auto.

I also buy salvage parts and parts without Porsche logos on the box from time to time...eek!

If we want to keep this train running, how dare we own Porsches and touch them ourselves. After all, the doctor designed them to only be handled by the dealer service gods.

Yes, I own a 13 year old Boxster and I use a torque wrench I bought at harbor freight on it. I've used it on numerous jobs and I bet I got them done just as well as if I had used your snap on torque wrenches. We all choose our priorities differently.

I will never buy another Harbor Freight torque wrench. I had one malfunction when I was tightening a front brake rotor bolt on my Ducati Supersport, resulting in a stripped out hole. I had to install a Helicoil. I threw the torque wrench away.

1. I thought we had already stipulated for the court that most of us are trying to do this on the cheap.

2. Which is why we are driving +/- 15 year old cars that are prone to explode at the most inopportune moment leaving us with expensive German lawn ornaments.

3. I use to shake my head, but after I bought a Boxster, I just smile a lot.

4. I vow to never buy anything from Princess Auto. Mostly cause my local store is 1,260 miles north of here and I would need to renew my passport thus negating any potential savings.

In conclusion; will an off brand tool be worth the gamble? Right or wrong it appears that several members have made the decision to take that risk.:D

You would lose that bet.

Bunch of tool snobs

Lets just forget the pissing contest of who's got the most expensive tool, and decide what is the expected % accuracy Vs cost of a good torque wrench.

I've just been on the Australian Snap-On website and their "standard" TW's start off at over $US250 each with a 4% accuracy - that's damned expensive (but that's Aussie for you) for something I'm only going to use every 6 months or so.
HOWEVER if I was building up a crankshaft that requires great accuracy, I wouldn't use any TR with an accuracy of only 4% - Snap-On or otherwise.... Torqueing up your wheels or suspension fasteners @ 4% is one thing .......
Snap-On's better stuff (2% repeatable) starts at $US750 plus here and your going to require at least 3 sized drives if your serious. It is probably different cost wise in the US & Canada, but even so, that's a lot of money invested for a non pro hobby!!

Ouch. I guess you get taxed heavily for living down under!
A little like the extra cost to live in San Diego.

I did a little searching on the web and a few sites that did testing said the HF digital TW adaptor is very accurate and can be used to check the accuracy of another TW. Foe $30 its probably a good investment regardless if you spend $10 or $1000 on a TW.

I guess you could set your TW to what you want and then check and adjust with the digital adaptor. That way each time you use it, you can set it to the correct torque regardless of what the handle says.

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-digital-torque-adapter-68283.html

I think as an DIY hobbiiest it's a good idea to not buy the cheapest tools, because you for shure buy them twice. That is ny personal experience.

When i was young and startet working on my cars i only had very cheap tools. Allways had broken tools and bloody tools. Especially on old, rusty bikes and cars.

Then there came a time where i was able to afford tools in a mid price range. And to buy them was a good decision. Because it is more fun to work with tools that do not brake or ruin anything if you use them with mind. Also it's about your own safety.

I have 3 torque wrenches i own 20 years now. Bougth them used, but in very good condition. They work in different torque ranges and they work good for me. I know they should be calibrated from year to year. Maybe that is also an aspect.

If i need special torque wrenches - for example for the central wheel nut (460 Nm) i lend one.

Personally i would prefer to go with an used good quality torque wrench that has an actual calibration instead of buying a new 20 USD no name torque wrench.

I would recommend to always buy the maximum quality you can afford. I know that not everybody can afford high quality tools. And that is absolutely OK. But if you like to work on stuff yourself it will be worth it. Also i would recommend to look for used tools in good condition.

Regards from Germany
Markus

Bolts are springs. Torque is used a crude measure of bolt stretch. The intent is to stretch them all the same length. Other less tangible items such as the surface finish of the threads, contamination or oil on the threads, and whether the bolt has been previously torqued have a greater effect on the final bolt stretch than installation torque. That is why bolt stretch is directly measured on high performance applications such as connecting rod caps where possible. It is also why you don't re use flywheel or rod end cap bolts. Arguing over 2% versus 4% is silly. Make sure the threads are clean, or cleaned and oiled for wet torquing. Pick a torque wrench so you are torquing near the middle of the range on the wrench and have at it.

And all of my torque wrenches have gold inlay - that makes them better.

I have HF torque wrenches and they work fine. Can they break? I suppose so, but I think I'll know it if they do. As our friend Pedro has said, most of this stuff is common sense: with a little experience and knowing the size of the nut and the length of the lever arm (wrench) you're working with should pretty much tell you how hard to crank on the thing. I get the distinct impression he hardly ever uses a torque wrench. IIRC, he's even said as much.

A torque wrench is a measuring device, and measuring is usually important for most applications. A Harbor Fright hammer is fine but I would not use their torque wrenches. I'm a retired pro and have electronic snap on torque wrenches that get calibrated. They calibrate to +/- 1/2% so they are very accurate. I would not use a torque wrench on the water pump. If you have no feel for "tight" then use one, otherwise, use a small ratchet and save your money up for a good wrench. Tools are your freinds, buy good ones when you can.

Sorry to create such a fire storm. It's funny how with so many things, there are so many varying answers. I will not be tearing apart a motor anytime soon where the accuracy might be more important. For spark plugs, would it make a big difference if I torqued to 21 or 23 instead of 22? Same with the water pump, 6 or 8 lbs versus the desired 7?

I would vote for the middle ground, you don't have to pop for Snap-On, but I wouldn't use harbor Freight either. I have a 3/8" Craftsman and a mid-priced 1/2" Proto.

IMO no, you can have a llarge variance in actual applied torque by having dirty threads, oil, or anti-seize vs. dry threads.

I don't think the price savings justifies skipping the Craftsman. On other things for sure since its just a matter of removing something, holding something or putting something back on, etc. But any measuring tool used on the cooling system should be at least Craftsman quality. I haven't been in Sears in a while (have they gone under yet?) but they generally stand by their tools for years. Harbor Freight will probably give you a new tool on the spot too, but only because there are only two people working the whole store.

Craftsman tools no longer have lifetime warranties on most tools which is why when I went to buy my socket set I opted for another brand. A lot of my tools are kobalt from lowes which I've read several places are actually designed by snap on. I broke an extension on a lug nut and they swapped it out with zero paperwork.

I don't use torque wrenches. I go by feel.

They call me the Torque Whisperer. Or maybe the Nut Whisperer, I can't remember which.

Yeah, my buddy thinks I am nuts worrying about torquing the spark plugs. I'll probably get the craftsman and be done with it though. Middle ground. They were 80, on sale for 40 so the price seems doable. Won't take care of my water pump issue, but reading Pedro last night, seems like changing it might be a waste of money at this point.
Thanks again everyone, always interesting.
David

Good point. I totally forgot about the Lowe's Snap-On thing...which is usually where I go because it's closer than Sears.
Even the Kobalt basic hand tools very well made for DIY applications. I purchased this ratcheting screw driver last week with interchangeable metric bits stored in the handle and was impressed with the sturdy feel and precise ratcheting action.

With a low use tool like a torque wrench, warranty isn't what you need to concerned with. Accuracy and repeatability is what's needed. If the mechanism that measures and indicates torque goes off you won't know it until you are breaking stuff or have stuff leaking or falling off. That's why it's important to buy a good one that you have confidence in the maker and treat it right. The cheaper and most dependable are the old beam type that really have no moving parts. The clicker types and springs and cams and the electro is, well they have electrons that can get out.

I no longer work on cars professionally and haven't for a while, but bolted connections are very important. Luckily designers have good knowledge of how the joint will work and design around the ability for it to be done right.

We use only one brand, Snap-On; I personally have six different capacity units ranging from a 5-35 inch pound torque driver, up to a rather large click style wrench that can accurately read at 600 ft. Lbs. While not cheap, every year they are tested for calibration and not one of them has ever needed adjustment, including the 40 year old unit I purchased new and which is used every day. Don't cheap out on quality and accuracy.

No offense but some of us can't buy tools that would cost 1/10 of the cost of our car. Also, not being a shop, I can not first of all deduct from my income taxes (likely knocking at least 25% off cost) and secondly, recoupe from my customers. Nothing wrong with any of that, I just can't do it. Yeah we would all love to have the best of tools but sometimes it just isn't wise money. Sometimes we have to cross our fingers and just hope for the best. Based on everything posted here, ideally I would want a snap on tool but it appears for my purposes, something cheaper seems more logical. I will then cross my fingers and pray often to "Ferdinand". Forgot who the boxster designer was.

Amazon reviews can be helpful, there's bound to be someone with extensive use of a tool doing a review. This clicker sold by Lowe's for $45 but Amazon has it for just under $40 with free shipping if you've got Prime. The HF 1/4" is $22.

TEKTON 24320 1/4-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench, 20-200-Inch/Pound - - Amazon.com

store the torque wrench at the lowest setting to preserve accuracy...

There are lots of snap on and Mac tools for sale on Craig's List. These can be usually bought for half price and then be calibrated. Take a look.

A friend of a friend at diner the other night (this guy is in upper management at Lowed corporate) told me that Lowe's had purchased the rights to the Craftsman tool line....where this is going ???

Bringing torque wrench back. After trying to do my spark plugs, size of wrench should definitely be considered. I had to tighten one click at a time due to space. Stunk.

No easy way around that. Extensions and angle.