06-17-2015, 12:51 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Peoria IL
Posts: 529
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I had 90k on my '97 and I had the clunking. Then some bastard at a garage broke something when attempting an alignment causing my brand new rear tires to go bald in a couple thousand miles. I wasn't sure exactly what was broke, but I heard that at 100k it was time to replace the whole ball of wax...
So we dipped into the 401k and bought the upper and lower arms and the trailing arms. New bushings all around and shocks. I also bought new bearings, but the shop was going to charge me $500 per wheel and I didn't want to dip that deep into my reserves so I passed on that for now.
The difference is night and day. It still drove, what I thought was well, before I did all of this, but it is amazing now. It's been about 500 miles since I did it and I'm still getting used to how tight everything is. And no more clunking!
If you have the financial means, I vote yes.
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06-17-2015, 02:16 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: O.C. CA
Posts: 3,709
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You have to do it eventually & it saves alot of labor to do it all at the same time. Maybe just do the rear 1st.
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OE engine rebuilt,3.6 litre LN Engineering billet sleeves,triple row IMSB,LN rods. Deep sump oil pan with DT40 oil.
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06-17-2015, 02:25 PM
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#3
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I am my own mechanic....
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 3,432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BYprodriver
You have to do it eventually & it saves alot of labor to do it all at the same time. Maybe just do the rear 1st.
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Agree. When I did the clutch there was no way I was reinstalling old drop links and sway bar bushings or a clunking trailing arm. Didn't do control arms, no clunk.
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'04 Boxster S 50 Jahre 550 Spyder Anniversary Special Edition, 851 of 1953, 6-sp, IMS/RMS, GT Metallic silver, cocoa brown leather SOLD to member Broken Linkage.
'08 VW Touareg T-3 wife's car
'13 F150 Super Crew long bed 4x4 w/ Ego Boost
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06-17-2015, 03:35 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Pacific Grove, CA
Posts: 494
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I replaced my OEM suspension at 85K with the ROW M030 Sport suspension and it was like driving a different car. Bumps and ruts that wore my back out from not being absorbed by the suspension were no more. The car became a pleasure to drive again and handled much better.
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06-17-2015, 04:34 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BYprodriver
You have to do it eventually & it saves alot of labor to do it all at the same time. Maybe just do the rear 1st.
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Focusing on a single axle is a great idea and split your cost in two however, you will have to pay two alignments (unless they charge you 1/2 for a single axle)...
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06-17-2015, 05:05 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoBeerToad
The difference is night and day. It still drove, what I thought was well, before I did all of this, but it is amazing now. It's been about 500 miles since I did it and I'm still getting used to how tight everything is. And no more clunking!
If you have the financial means, I vote yes.
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Makes sense. I recently did the front engine mount, and the difference was night and day too. I was fine with/used to that little vibration in my back, but now I know it's not supposed to be there at all, and the car feels so much nicer.
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06-17-2015, 08:56 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hancock1701
Makes sense. I recently did the front engine mount, and the difference was night and day too. I was fine with/used to that little vibration in my back, but now I know it's not supposed to be there at all, and the car feels so much nicer.
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I changed the engine mount too, and I now miss that kick in the butt at every gear shift
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2003 2.7 Boxster - Tiptronic - Carrera wheels - OBC - Red calipers - Cat pipes - Modified muffler - Rear speakers - K&N - Litronics
2006 V6 Mustang
2008 ML 350
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06-18-2015, 03:44 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: S. New Jersey
Posts: 1,239
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With every replacement I have never felt that night and day difference
I'm suspecting that I'm doing it early enough before parts are completely worn
65k miles front engine mount - Old was cracked so it was going but notice no difference after
Front suspension 75k (Lower control arms, tie rods inners & outers, Drop links and Sway bar bushings)
Only really feel difference is at hard braking. I don't have that shutter that vibrates up to the steering wheel
My thoughts, waiting past 80-100k on these parts is past their prime
Ahh - sports cars and their sensitive nature
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2002 S - old school third pedal
Seal Grey
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