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Old 06-14-2015, 06:11 PM   #1
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Battery is brand new. And fully charged.
No, all the lights in the dashboard come on, but tach doesn't move. You're just hear the engine turning like it's "almost there", but the VRROOOOOM never comes.

I kept reading more posts here and found out that some people have a problem where they remove the key and the car still thinks the key is in the ignition. They changed the ignition switch and it solved. I have had this problem happen to me 3 or 4 times over the years. So, I bought the switch. It only costs $9 and Amazon should delivery on Tuesday.
Red flag. If tach does not even reflect the engine cranking, it's the CPS or the relay in the trunk drivers side. DME or something similar. It's in my book at the shop.
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Old 06-14-2015, 06:16 PM   #2
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Red flag. It's in my book at the shop.
OH NO!!!!!!! This could be trouble!!This has the potential to bring cats into play!!!:chicken:
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Old 06-14-2015, 06:18 PM   #3
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Call Kram, He moonlights as a marriage counselor..............As long as he has an active internet connection..............
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Old 06-15-2015, 07:20 AM   #4
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Call Kram, He moonlights as a marriage counselor..............As long as he has an active internet connection..............
Weak sauce, my friend. Too far of a stretch, kinda a personal attack. He's not even in here.
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Old 06-15-2015, 03:05 PM   #5
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Weak sauce, my friend. Too far of a stretch, kinda a personal attack. He's not even in here.
I'm out of the loop. What happened?
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Old 06-17-2015, 09:26 AM   #6
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Ok guys. Just a quick update.

I changed the ignition switch with the $9 URO from Amazon. It was easy enough. Maybe took 30 minutes due to position upside down under the steering wheel.

The car turned on 3 times in a row. A little "angrier" than normal. I will drive it to work today to see if it's gonna disappoint me.

This is probably just my mind playing tricks on me, but I feel like the key is smoother. I do remember having issues that the key would have to be force now and then to be turned. It had to be "just right" to turn. Now, it's going around much easier. Also in and out.

I will report back.
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Old 06-17-2015, 10:29 AM   #7
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This is probably just my mind playing tricks on me, but I feel like the key is smoother. I do remember having issues that the key would have to be force now and then to be turned. It had to be "just right" to turn. Now, it's going around much easier. Also in and out.
Another symptom of a bad switch.
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Old 06-17-2015, 09:17 PM   #8
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Ok. Drove to work and back today. 15 miles each way. Both of the times, the car turned on without any problem.

However, I think that every time the car didnt start it was hot. As in I drove for 20 minutes, stopped to eat or pump gas and then tried to start it. It never not worked when it was cold.
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Old 07-04-2015, 04:46 PM   #9
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Weak sauce, my friend. Too far of a stretch, kinda a personal attack. He's not even in here.
I do hear he watches Cannon and Mannix................
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Old 07-04-2015, 07:05 PM   #10
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I haven't had time yet, but I could get another video of the issue happening:

https://youtu.be/1Fyqh6slO6E

I will work on it tomorrow.
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Old 06-14-2015, 06:41 PM   #11
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Red flag. If tach does not even reflect the engine cranking, it's the CPS or the relay in the trunk drivers side. DME or something similar. It's in my book at the shop.
Yeah tach not moving = CPS; I'm not familiar with the other things that timco mentions, but that's probably because mine happened to be cps. Happened to with very similar symptoms. Sometimes would not crank and with me it would shut down while driving.
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