Boxster won't start! My wife will leave me.

[Montesinnos]

Hi guys,
just like a couple other people here, my car doesn't start. I browsed through a bunch of posts here with similar problems, but I'd like to ask a second opinion before I start to replace parts that are fine.

1999 Boxster 120k miles

• Day 0 - Worked fine for 3 years
• Day 1 - Car didn't start. It "turns" but there's no start. It doesn't do the battery click either. All the lights, radio, electronics come on. After 20 tries in the period of 1 hour, it started.
• Day 2 - Drives fine
• Day 10 - Didn't start again. Tried around 20 times. I tried to jump start it with a battery charger and another car and nothing. But then, used my wife's A3 to jump it and it started right away.
• Day 11 - Bought a new battery (my old one was made in 2003). Car worked perfectly for 2 days.
• Day 13 - Doesn't start again with new battery. Tried jumping with another car and nothing. Push start also doesn't work. Took to Autozone where I bought the battery. They checked and said that the battery is fine and charged. However, their machine indicated Voltage Regular issue. After 30 tries, it worked. Drove home and left the car on for a while to grab some things, but the car shut off by itself.
• Day 13 - Checked it with Durametric cable. Zero issues. No faults detected.
• Day 14 - Managed to get it on again, and decided to put some new gas, being afraid that it might be it. Car didn't start after pumping gas. I tried to roll start it 5 times and nothing. It turned after 2 hours of tries. When I stopped at home, it shut off by itself again.
• Day 17 - Changed ignition switch (http://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-4A0-905-849B/dp/B0066SFYMO). Worked for a couple days
• Day 20 - Car stopped staying on. It would turn on and die in 2 seconds. Got this error on Durametric: P1602 Porsche fault code 108 - Power Supply - open circuit
• Day 21 - Car stopped turning on. Video of the issue: http://youtu.be/N5sAB14e2GY. Got this fault on Durametric: P0102 Mass air flow sensor short circuit/open circuit
• Day 22 - New video of issue: https://youtu.be/1Fyqh6slO6E
• Day 25 - I took the alternator out and brought it to Autozone and OReilleys. Both place tested and said that that the alternator is fine, and so is the Voltage Regulator. I put it back in.
• Day 25 - Since I was inside the car already, I changed the belt and the air filter. The belt wasn't so bad, but the filter was.
• Day 26 - I keep resetting the codes, and the MAF warnings keep coming back. I heard that it could be the battery being disconnected or some electrical problem somewhere else, but if the Durametric is to be believed, the MAF is bad.
• Day 29 - Used CRC Mass airflow cleaner. Car turns on and stay on. Very rought idle though.

Notes:

• I installed an aftermarket Bulldog keyless entry 1 year ago. It always worked
• When the car is on, it drives fine. I can get to highway speed without feeling loss of power.
• Already checked the fuses.

What I have to check/test:

• Alternator & Voltage Regulator
• CPS
• Fuel Pump & Relay
• Fuel pressure

What do you guys think?


Thanks in advance!

[Timco]

Picture of angry wife?

[Montesinnos]

Originally Posted by Timco

Picture of angry wife?

Any picture will do. She's always angry.

[Timco]

Originally Posted by Montesinnos

Any picture will do. She's always angry.

Any picture will do is our line! Maybe not getting the car started may be a better option?

Try the engine management modules and the crank position sensor. This could be 40+ things. Get the Bently book. Has many TS guides. Starting with good charged batt is #1.

Always cranks but sometimes no start? Tach always moves with these start attempts when it doesn't start? Try checking fuel pressure with a no start?

[RedTele58]

Originally Posted by Montesinnos

Any picture will do. She's always angry.

This is why I'm single.

[Timco]

Originally Posted by RedTele58

This is why I'm single.

I believe the proper term is "Deathtrap".

Had my car 3 years now. She's never driven it. Puts her window up. Does NOT like any spirited driving.

[Dgnarvs]

This happened to me twice in my 2 years of ownership. First time, it was the gear shift not engaging in P. I just jiggled it, put it in neutral then back to park. It finally started. An "isolated" case that happened a couple of times during a week. Never happened again since. Second time was a couple of weeks back and the culprit was the alternator. Had it serviced and all's well.

[KRAM36]

How long has it been since you changed the fuel filter?

[healthservices]

Maybe its time to change the wife?

[Montesinnos]

Originally Posted by Timco

Any picture will do is our line! Maybe not getting the car started may be a better option?

Try the engine management modules and the crank position sensor. This could be 40+ things. Get the Bently book. Has many TS guides. Starting with good charged batt is #1.

Always cranks but sometimes no start? Tach always moves with these start attempts when it doesn't start? Try checking fuel pressure with a no start?

Battery is brand new. And fully charged.
No, all the lights in the dashboard come on, but tach doesn't move. You're just hear the engine turning like it's "almost there", but the VRROOOOOM never comes.

I kept reading more posts here and found out that some people have a problem where they remove the key and the car still thinks the key is in the ignition. They changed the ignition switch and it solved. I have had this problem happen to me 3 or 4 times over the years. So, I bought the switch. It only costs $9 and Amazon should delivery on Tuesday.

[Montesinnos]

Originally Posted by RedTele58

This is why I'm single.

Hehe, she had to help me push it home for 2 miles at 1AM. Good times. It strengthened our relationship.

[Montesinnos]

Originally Posted by healthservices

Maybe its time to change the wife?

Way past time.
She would take half the Boxster though. Maybe she can take the part that doesnt work.

[Montesinnos]

Originally Posted by KRAM36

How long has it been since you changed the fuel filter?

Maybe never? I haven't. I will check some paperwork to see if the previous owner did.
Thanks for the hint.

[healthservices]

Tell her she needs to pay to fix it first otherwise it's only worth $500 for scrap. Lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

[Montesinnos]

Originally Posted by Dgnarvs

This happened to me twice in my 2 years of ownership. First time, it was the gear shift not engaging in P. I just jiggled it, put it in neutral then back to park. It finally started. An "isolated" case that happened a couple of times during a week. Never happened again since. Second time was a couple of weeks back and the culprit was the alternator. Had it serviced and all's well.

I have a manual one.

The alternator will be second thing I'll change. I need to read a little more, but the voltage regulator is somehow attached to/inside of it. That's what the machine at Autozone is failing.
My durametric doesn't say anything though.

[Timco]

Originally Posted by Montesinnos

Battery is brand new. And fully charged.
No, all the lights in the dashboard come on, but tach doesn't move. You're just hear the engine turning like it's "almost there", but the VRROOOOOM never comes.

I kept reading more posts here and found out that some people have a problem where they remove the key and the car still thinks the key is in the ignition. They changed the ignition switch and it solved. I have had this problem happen to me 3 or 4 times over the years. So, I bought the switch. It only costs $9 and Amazon should delivery on Tuesday.

Red flag. If tach does not even reflect the engine cranking, it's the CPS or the relay in the trunk drivers side. DME or something similar. It's in my book at the shop.

[911monty]

Originally Posted by Timco

Red flag. It's in my book at the shop.

OH NO!!!!!!! This could be trouble!!This has the potential to bring cats into play!!!:chicken:

[coreseller]

Call Kram, He moonlights as a marriage counselor..............As long as he has an active internet connection..............

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by Timco

Red flag. If tach does not even reflect the engine cranking, it's the CPS or the relay in the trunk drivers side. DME or something similar. It's in my book at the shop.

Yeah tach not moving = CPS; I'm not familiar with the other things that timco mentions, but that's probably because mine happened to be cps. Happened to with very similar symptoms. Sometimes would not crank and with me it would shut down while driving.

[Mark_T]

Just a thought, rather than throwing parts at it, it may well be cheaper in the long run to take it in and let the pro's have a go at it. Certainly less frustrating.

Hehe, I saw your heading and it made me think of, "I got bad news and I've got good news..."

I've been separated for a little over a year now, and it's been the best year of my life. I highly recommend it.