04-26-2015, 04:05 AM
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#1
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Need For Speed
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Funville
Posts: 2,114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Wayne
Definately. Get a full set !!The older design bolts were hex heads, which of course can round out, the newer version is a large torx head.
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Roger that, full set will be ordered.
Thanks for the info!
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2003 Boxster S
| 987 Air Box | K&N Air Filter | 76mm Intake Pipe| 996 76mm TB | 997 Distribution T | Secondary Cat Delete Pipes | Borla Muffler | NHP 200 Cell Exhaust Headers |
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04-26-2015, 07:22 AM
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#2
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98 Arctic silver 986
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 1,452
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Well I'm ready to go back at it. I'm first going to run to the hardware store for some nuts (for the 2 nut method). I filled up the hole in the back of the bolt with PB blaster around 5pm so by the time i get the wheel back off it will be around 18 hours. I'll see if there is any progress before i go with heat. I'll report back, wish me luck.
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04-26-2015, 07:38 AM
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#3
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I am my own mechanic....
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 3,432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy583
Well I'm ready to go back at it. I'm first going to run to the hardware store for some nuts (for the 2 nut method). I filled up the hole in the back of the bolt with PB blaster around 5pm so by the time i get the wheel back off it will be around 18 hours. I'll see if there is any progress before i go with heat. I'll report back, wish me luck.
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Luck!!!!!!!!
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'04 Boxster S 50 Jahre 550 Spyder Anniversary Special Edition, 851 of 1953, 6-sp, IMS/RMS, GT Metallic silver, cocoa brown leather SOLD to member Broken Linkage.
'08 VW Touareg T-3 wife's car
'13 F150 Super Crew long bed 4x4 w/ Ego Boost
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04-27-2015, 11:49 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Fort Collins, Co.
Posts: 74
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I did the brakes on my 01S not too long ago. The car had come from back east and all four top Caliper bolts had buggered threads on the very end. And all four came out very slowly and with great difficultly. I had to then chase the threads, put some anti seize on them and re-install. Not sure why this happens to the top bolts. The bottom bolts all around were fine. The fronts were particularly bad and I had to go back and forth, back and forth all the way out and was convinced they were going to break any second. What an incredible pain in the A## that was.
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04-27-2015, 12:48 PM
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#5
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Track rat
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Southern ID
Posts: 3,701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwillia080261
I did the brakes on my 01S not too long ago. The car had come from back east and all four top Caliper bolts had buggered threads on the very end. And all four came out very slowly and with great difficultly. I had to then chase the threads, put some anti seize on them and re-install. Not sure why this happens to the top bolts. The bottom bolts all around were fine. The fronts were particularly bad and I had to go back and forth, back and forth all the way out and was convinced they were going to break any second. What an incredible pain in the A## that was.
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Yep, the top bolts terminate into a little well that has no drainage. It captures moisture and road salt over time which works into the threads causing galvanic corrosion. A small drain hole or simply filling the well with silicone after installation might help solve this. The bottom bolts gravity drain so not nearly such a problem. I always use a high temp thread lube on caliper bolts to help with removal next time.
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2009 Cayman 2.9L PDK (with a few tweaks)
PCA-GPX Chief Driving Instructor-Ret.
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05-05-2015, 03:34 PM
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#6
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98 Arctic silver 986
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 1,452
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Well my mechanic had a go at getting the bolt out. He wasn't successful. He also wasn't comfortable trying to put in a helicoil with brake mount / hub on the car. So since he was going to take it off anyway I purchased a new (used) one from our good friend Woody. I also had him try to get the bolts out of the rest of the calipers while he had it there. It turns out the drivers side top bolt is frozen as well as one of the rear top bolts. So I guess I will need to address the other hubs before I will be able to fit new rotors on the car. It's funny how a simple brake job has turned into this mess. On the bright side maybe the new (used) hubs i purchase will have newer wheel bearings in them.
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05-05-2015, 04:05 PM
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#7
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Beginner
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,659
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I took my calipers off and the top bolts did not budge at all pulling on them. A 3 lb. sledge hammer on a breaker bar did the trick. I did not have to deal with salt water dribbling into the well near the bolt however.
How to bust a bolt loose with a sledge and a breaker bar: Get the socket wrench (six point or Allen in my case) well engaged on the bolt. Load the breaker bar as much as you can with one hand. Strike the end of the breaker bar with the hammer. Loading the breaker bar before striking is imperative, as is using a heavy hammer. Using a sixteen ounce carpenter hammer, or striking an unloaded breaker bar is wasting your time.
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2003 S manual
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04-26-2015, 08:31 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy583
Well I'm ready to go back at it. I'm first going to run to the hardware store for some nuts (for the 2 nut method). I filled up the hole in the back of the bolt with PB blaster around 5pm so by the time i get the wheel back off it will be around 18 hours. I'll see if there is any progress before i go with heat. I'll report back, wish me luck.
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Good Luck
__________________
986 x2 6sp
2x Range Rover Vogue 4.6
2004 MX5 Sport 6speed Strato Blue (wifelet)
2x Range Rover Classic & CSK
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04-26-2015, 09:35 AM
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#9
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98 Arctic silver 986
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Upstate, NY
Posts: 1,452
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Well it's still stuck in there. Should i put the nuts towards the hub or on the end of the bolt?
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