Fronts have a large rectangular plate with two posts on each plate. Two per caliper. Those fit into the pistons of the caliper. DO NOT tear the dust boot. Pop those out, get everyone else's glue / pad grease out of there and go from there.

Rears have a round disc in each piston, so four per caliper. No need to change any of them unless damaged, but likely not.

Go ceramic. Almost zero brake dust, super quiet, rotor wears super slowly.

On mine (2000 S) I reused the front shims, I took them out and cleaned them with brake cleaner, and then put a little anti-squeal on the backs and put them.back in. When I went to do the backs the shims were missing. I did not get new ones and all is well. There is a really good tutorial on boxsterregister.org on brakes, probably the most comprehensive I have ever seen.

I use ebc redstuff too, quiet on the street, low dust, and handles track and autocross well. The red looks good right up until you drive then it gets covered in dust and grime :)

A couple of tips for brake jobs that you don't always see in the DIY's:

Really important - use only the best flare wrenches, like Snap-On or Mac. The rest are crap and will spread and round off your nipples if they are overly tight (oo, that sounds painful).

Brake fluid is one of the best paint removers you will find, Be careful not to spill it on any painted surfaces and if you do then wipe it up right away.

Have lots of clean rags handy and don't spare the brake cleaner. Compressed air is also very helpful. I believe that at least part of the reason that my brakes don't squeal is that the calipers were cleaned to operating room standards before painting and re-assembly.

A Motive power bleeder is worth every penny. Actually, it's worth twice that.

The clutch line comes out of the side of the reservoir, not the bottom like the brakes. Do not let the fluid level in the reservoir drop below the level of the clutch line outlet or you have just bought yourself a world of hassle. The clutch pedal needs to be wedged to the floor for bleeding. A piece of 2x4 works fine. Don't be tempted to skip bleeding the clutch even though it is a royal PITA to get at the bleeder.

The wear sensors are not actually required, Many people don't re-install them in the pads and instead just wire them up to the suspension somewhere out of the way. I did not do this. Also, judging by the extremely low resistance through the sensors, I think you can probably just short the plug they attach to and eliminate them together, but I stress that I have not actually tried this myself and am merely guessing.

While the brake job is very simple and easy on these cars, it is definitely possible to botch it up if you are not careful. Here's a link to Pedro's site:
DIY Projects: Do-it-Yourself Repair and Maintenance for your Porsche
His DIY's are well written with lots of pics.

Thus ends my unsolicited advice - good luck!

Thanks guys.

Yeah Timco I really want ceramic. I put a nice set of drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads on my daughters Eclipse GTS Spyder and her wheels have never looked so clean.

Wait....




let me get this straight....





More Krams???







http://s.mlkshk.com/r/R74D




:D

Not to throw another (@T in the blender, but every time I hear mention of drilled, dimpled, and slotted rotors I remember many old unresolved debates.

This thread was a good one: http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/52440-blank-vs-cross-drilled-vs-slotted-brake-rotors.html. You can find it in just about any performance car forum and to some people its like debating religion.

Sometimes you'll find quoted data supporting opposite views, but usually it's like using a butt-dyno to back up HP claims. After all the debates and flames I have read, I am convinced that good pads, such as the Redstuff are what really matter. For rotors, I expect material is more significant than blank vs drilled vs slot etc. My '99 is staying with blank rotors, the '01 is going to go slotted & drilled. All a matter of aesthetics to me.
:dance:

If you want to make this personal and bring ******************************** into this, then be my guest. I've agreed to not speak of or mention ******************************** and am trying hard to live up to my bargain. I'd love to comment about your ******************************** pic, but will withhold comment.

I've never liked ******************************** and think ******************************** should ******************************** themselves nicely while ******************************** just lives life.....is how I see it.

Have a nice day! :)

Did my front bakes today. The rotor almost wore through the wear indicator.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429581347.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429581398.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429581419.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429581535.jpg

They look a little better now.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429581577.jpg

Yahoo! :) :) :) :) :D

LMAO! Time for a beer!

:cheers:

So, the rotor really did cut through the wire after all????

And what proud Porsche owner lets their pads get to the wear sensor without compulsively messing with them way before that??? That is bad, and you should feel bad. Shame.

New setup looks tight. Very nice. I really wanted to go red calipers but the SE came with aluminum painted so I stayed silver. Nice look but not the flash of the red.

Err Hello... look how thin the pads have to get before it can even cut the sensor! :D

And this is on 'Jamesp S' not the OP's car

Thanks James. :D

Also note that the rotor isn't in horrible shape either, yet it cut into the sensor. :cool:

We still need to see what the op comes up with for his issue. ;)

On another note, I'm laughing my rear off at coreseller right now. :p

Yes there are. I have two daughters, the oldest has birthed two more. You're welcome. :p

The rotor didn't quite cut through the wire, but it was close. These are the rotors that came with the car, they have 126K on them. The brake pads were so thin the wear indicator holes only had a paper thin covering of friction material over them. The rotor had that nice lip in the photo to reach out and touch the sensor. After looking this over yesterday, really worn parts are required for this to happen, both rotors and pads. If the wiring is properly dressed on the caliper there is no way for the wires to touch the rotor. Just had to float this out there yesterday, thought folks would get a kick out of it. :D

KC??

So that puts you in your late 30's then, right? Maybe 40ish?

47 and retired as of April 10th, 2015. :)

These are recent pictures of me. I'm in good shape, full head of hair with no gray in it.

http://i60.tinypic.com/987ok0.jpg

http://i62.tinypic.com/vii6oi.jpg

Have all the time I need to research wrenching on my Boxster. Been a motor head all my life, rebuilding motors or what ever needed to be done.


.

kind of reminds me of...

https://33.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_l...cbtpo1_250.gif


lol

the problem is you often refuse to listen to what others are saying,
Case in point, your thread on changing the spoiler deployment speed and how it effects the aerodynamics of the car, MPG and drag, etc

Stop being so argumentative with everyone. If you ask for opinions, don't just argue with everyone who disagrees with you. Accept other opinions for what they are. Remember everyone has an opinion and they are like a-holes, some are smelly and stinky

I'm not a mean guy like Biff, so I won't be knocking you on the head.