What is the best for removing the pins from this connector?
I need to take some of the pins out of this connector without damaging them:
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1424023661.jpg I'm thinking that a pin extraction tool for a female molex might work, but I would like to be certain before I order a tool. Here are a couple that look promising: Molex Extractor for Male Female 0 093" 0 062" Pins | eBay Molex Type Pin Extractor for 093" Size Pins Plunger Type Pin Remover | eBay I've read some on line reviews of other products and it appears there are some cheap tools out there that break before they can complete the job. Any suggestions and recommendations are appreciated. |
Cut wire, crimp on new pin?
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Thanks for the suggestion.
That would work, but I want to transfer some of the pins to another connector as part of this project: http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/55840-can-you-endure-one-more-litronic-thread-me.html I could take the route you suggest, but I'd only want to do that if I cannot think of another way. |
Here's a picture of the connector attached to the ECU for the litronics system. There is a slide that locks it in place. If I pop that off, maybe I can see a way to take the connector apart.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1424027312.jpg |
dunno if it will help, or has anything to do with this, but i have spares for the two connectors that plug into the back of the litronic headlights. i got mine used, and once installed you can't remove the wiring harness without cutting these connectors off. so, i had to replace mine. it was a HUGE search for me to find them online, but i did and they sent a couple of extras.
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Quote:
I purchased my litronics used as well. I installed the harness and wiring to activate the low-beam rotation feature. Now, I have the bright idea of installing the dynamic leveling system. (You can read about it here: http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/55840-can-you-endure-one-more-litronic-thread-me.html) If I can move 6 pins from the connector I showed in the picture to the one installed in my car, I can simplify the wiring considerably. The other option is to remove what I already put in and build a wiring loom that attaches to the salvaged harness that I bought. However, as you indicate in your post, the connectors that attach to the lights are too big to fit through the holes in the front trunk. I was wondering if this might be the pin that they used in the connector: http://www.repairconnector.com/deutsch-female-open-barrel-replacement-terminal-16-18-ga-5-pack/ If it is, I could just insert them into my existing connector. |
dunno; at the other end (the light) its something similar to these:
http://www.smart-stuff.co.uk/ekmps/s...kit-4117-p.jpg |
I decided to give this tool a try:
Lisle Pin Extraction Tool Wire Terminal Steel Natural Aluminum Handle Each | eBay I'll report on its effectiveness. |
Try this
The locking pin is right there sticking up, slide something flat and thin along the top and it will push the locking arm down....then extract it out of the back
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It turns out that you need to carefully pry the sliding part off. Then, you can slide out a locking piece of plastic that runs through the center of the connector. This allows you to gently lift some plastic locking piece and remove the pins.
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Hi,
so you've found a solution. I had some problems unlocking connections a while ago. So i bought a set of unlocking tools. BGS Auspinwerkzeug, Entriegelungswerkzeug, Lösewerkzeug universal, 12-teil. | eBay A bit ecpensive, but works very well on most car connectors. Regards Markus |
2 Attachment(s)
Here's a picture of the connector with the sliding lock device removed and the part that locks the pins in place partly out of the connector:
Attachment 19170 To remove the pins, use a small screwdriver to bend back the flaps of black plastic holding the pins in place and pull them out. Here's a picture of the pins that were in the connector. They don't have locking pins that could be compressed with the tool I bought. Attachment 19171 |
If the diameter is 2.5 mm (it's a Germsn car, so metric) then ...
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