Oh, that’s pretty poor measuring there. I can’t imagine there would be much, if any, variation to the width of those holes. I’d probably just ream one side out a bit to fit.

Yeah.... but that kinda sucks, don't it? When you pay a premium price to buy a "premium" product from the company that's supposedly the best (that's what all the zealots would have us believe), you shouldn't have to "ream" anything, should you?

LN strikes again.

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Wait..... can I say that, without this thread getting deleted?

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That thought crossed my mind 4 yrs ago when I had to do so much customizing to my EBS baffle. But I was glad I did it as I wanted it to fit precisely on it's own, not something that was shoved in there and slammed in place by a deformed sump plate.

Absolutely agree. The difference in my mind being that I bought the EBS unit 'cuz it was the cheapest one I could find that looked like it would work. I sort of expect some of that when I buy that way. Hahaha


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The horror! :eek:

After trying the EBS “deep” version baffle along with the .5qt sump extension, I decided to switch to the FVD .6qt bespoke oil pan and their x51 style baffle. The FVD oil exchange windows are smaller than the EBS, use rubber flaps and are positioned higher in the baffle. The FDV edge seals are rubber wipes rather than the EBS wraparound rubber. No clue whether the design differences are good, bad or a wash but a friend of mine has been running the FVD in HPDE for several seasons with no problems (in a 996). The FVD was a perfect fit out of the box.

Like others on this thread I had to make minor mods to the upper and rubber edges of the EBS to make it fit to my satisfaction. Additionally I was glad to eliminate the double row of flange sealant. I applied the SI5900 using a regular caulk gun with no problems.

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That is pretty slick! :cheers:

That FVD is a sweet looking unit.

Always interested in the flappers and how they're made. Factory and FVD use rubber doors, the EBS uses a metal hinged door. Rubber ages and will crack. Not good. The metal hinge seems could get debris in it and freeze open. Not good. It's probably my paranoid nature with something this important, but each method appears to have potential issues.

However, still no issues with my EBS after 4.5 yrs.

I agree, good points all. One of the doors on my EBS unit was binding on the edge of the mounting bracket when tilted certain directions. I was able to grind a little off the edge of the door to fix this. When fitted into the engine that same door was binding a little at its hinge due to a slight torque on the unit due to the fit. I scoped the EBS after installation and an oil fill/drain (luckily it was the drivers side flap which I could see with the scope). The door was still binding a little so I decided to go with the FVD rather than continue with fitting mods on the EBS.

At 109,000 miles / 15 years the oil flaps, mounting tabs and baffle still looked like new on my original pan and baffle. No deformation or cracks of the flaps, flaps still very pliable. I realize this is not the case for everyone however. I think the EBS would have been fine if I had went ahead and resolved the minor binding issue. I did confirm with Rhonda at FVD that their rubber flap compound was spec’d for this app.

that silicone application is WAY WAY WAY too thick on the left side of the pic. You likely have a bunch of that silicone floating around now or will shortly.

The right side is much closer to what you are looking for.

also no need to silicone on the outside of the bolt holes since the pan gets sealed on the lip to the inside of the holes

thnx QC. Because it’s on the left side I should be able to lift the flap with a pick and check with the scope to see how much went to the inside. It will not take much to reseal it if necessary (I haven’t put oil in in yet).

Scoped the pan and was surprised at the size of the silicone bead on the inside versus the outside. After I pulled the pan I saw what was going on. The FVD pan flange is much wider than the engine case edge. For this reason, it’s hard to know where to lay down a (very) narrow bead of flange sealant on the pan flange.

I can’t work on the car again before Monday but at that time I’ll clean everything up and attempt to lay a very narrow bead of sealant down centered directly on the engine case. That way I’ll ensure alignment between the engine case and the pan flange. Then I’ll try bolt everything up before the bead drops.

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Can you put the silicone on the engine rather than the sump? That way you know it will be sealed when the sump goes back on.

That’s my next move. Don’t see any reason I should have a problem if I get the bead ‘just right’ :-)

[QUOTE=Oldcarguy;589087]That’s my next move. Don’t see any reason I should have a problem if I get the bead ‘just right’ :-)[/QUOTE



It seals easily with just about any name brand sealant, no need to use Drie Bond. Permatex European is what I use.

Thnx ByP. I had plenty of SI5900 left so I took the time to clean up the surfaces and reseal it this morn. Used an extremely narrow bead going to the inside of all bolt holes (didn’t surround the bolt holes) on the engine casing. It held fine, plenty of time to fit the pan. Nominal to no seepage to the outside when torqued down (7 ft/lb). Didn’t have a chance to scope it but I’ll do it Monday morn. I think I’ll be in good shape now (if it doesn’t leak).

With this mod, how is the oil level checked? Does the same oil dip stick work for accurate measurement? How about the digital gauge on the instrument panel?

I have run many deep sumps in every thing from air cooled VWs to big block 455 Olds. The dipstick stays the same. if you changed the mark or extended the dipstick to compensate that would defeat the purpose of the deep sump. :cheers:

also the same for the digital gauge. Both work as before.