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Old 07-02-2014, 06:41 AM   #1
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Only other idea is a failing ignition switch. These are known to cause all kinds of electrical gremlins. Easy and cheap fix. Can even buy a VW part and save a little $$$.
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:54 AM   #2
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Only other idea is a failing ignition switch. These are known to cause all kinds of electrical gremlins. Easy and cheap fix. Can even buy a VW part and save a little $$$.
Great to know, thanks! Do you know how I might test the ignition switch to see if it is the culprit in this instance?
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Old 07-02-2014, 10:42 AM   #3
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Great to know, thanks! Do you know how I might test the ignition switch to see if it is the culprit in this instance?
If it's not completely shot, you can put in your key, turn it to the on position, and push it in and out and wiggle it a bit and see if the windows magically start working again.

I had some electrical window issues when the microswitch in the center latch for the top was going out. Reseating the center latch by opening the top, sticking my finger up into the hole to actuate the microswitch, then re-locking the top worked for me.

The blowing fuse thing is bothersome though and I think you have a short somewhere, not one of the things above. Just an afterthought to pass along.

Let us know what the culprit was in the end. Others reading this thread in the future will stumble on a solution to their own blown fuse window problems.
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:51 AM   #4
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I did a complete check for shorts and found none. When I unplug the CLU, C3 fuse does not blow. As soon as I plug back in the CLU C3 blows. The Jack a&& prior owner left the CLU unmounted and dangling....seems to not be original either. He must have got a used one and stuck his hand under the seat to make the switch.. When I opened it I found no apparent moisture or corrosion on the circuit board. I guess I will get another and see if it does the trick after installation.

Do I need to have a code to install if I don't use my remote locking function from my keys?
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Old 08-11-2015, 04:39 AM   #5
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I did a complete check for shorts and found none. When I unplug the CLU, C3 fuse does not blow. As soon as I plug back in the CLU C3 blows. The Jack a&& prior owner left the CLU unmounted and dangling....seems to not be original either. He must have got a used one and stuck his hand under the seat to make the switch.. When I opened it I found no apparent moisture or corrosion on the circuit board. I guess I will get another and see if it does the trick after installation.

Do I need to have a code to install if I don't use my remote locking function from my keys?
I know this is an old post, but did you ever resolve this? I'm having the exact same problem. I hope you have the solution. I switched out the CLU with a re-programmed one and it's still blowing the fuse. I'm hoping the box is good and it's something else that's a minor repair. I paid $495.00 to have the box repaired or I should say replaced with a rebuilt one, but they did say may old circuit board was bad and non-repairable.
Joe

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Old 08-23-2015, 06:21 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Miata2Boxster View Post
I did a complete check for shorts and found none. When I unplug the CLU, C3 fuse does not blow. As soon as I plug back in the CLU C3 blows. The Jack a&& prior owner left the CLU unmounted and dangling....seems to not be original either. He must have got a used one and stuck his hand under the seat to make the switch.. When I opened it I found no apparent moisture or corrosion on the circuit board. I guess I will get another and see if it does the trick after installation.

Do I need to have a code to install if I don't use my remote locking function from my keys?
I would mount the CLU properly, might just be a bad ground connection. A bad ground causes all kinds of problems including blown fuses.
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Old 08-24-2015, 03:23 PM   #7
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I would mount the CLU properly, might just be a bad ground connection. A bad ground causes all kinds of problems including blown fuses.
Mine is mounted properly, I believe that was the original poster and never mentioned if he found the problem. You are correct though about a bad ground causing problems. I'm just thankful my windows are working again without having to pull the door panels off.
Thanks
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Old 09-18-2015, 03:35 PM   #8
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Hi guys,
I thought I had my window problem resolved but I guess not. It's better but not totally fixed. I replaced the micro switch in the center of the windshield because the windows were staying in the convertible mode when you release the handle to open the top. The reason I changed the switch was to see if that was the problem because I only heard the switch making one click not two. I'm able to close them using the key and holding it in the lock position for a few seconds and then they close like they should when using the console switch. Well now with the new switch installed the C3 fuse again is blowing when it gets to the second click. Something is shorting out, I checked the wiring where the connector is and cut off the rubber insulation. I thought maybe 2 wires were making contact and maybe they are they're pretty small gauge wires and the plug connectors look pretty close. I removed the seat to check the wires going to the immobilizer and they looked fine but who knows. I cleaned the connectors with electronic contact cleaner even though they looked fine. Any help is appreciated, I'm getting to closer to resolving this at least I have a general idea of where the problems stemming from. When I do resolve this I'll definitely post my findings so if someone in the future has the same issue they'll be able to repair it.

Last edited by joecal; 09-19-2015 at 02:53 PM.
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