Recycled,

Go with the low-temp thermostat, and do the work yourself, it's too easy not to DIY.
I too was on the fence about doing the work you're about to undertake. I had no receipts from the PO regarding replacement, so I assumed, correctly as it turns out, that I was still running the original pump.
Coolant was also changed, as it was 14 years in the vehicle, and I went with a LN 160F thermostat.
For working on jackstands and only with hand tools, I got 'er apart, drained and back together in 4 3/4 hours. I had to add another half hour for the borrowed vacuum fill tool and I was all finished.
Asides from the under-vehicle access, it really was an easy DIY.
I had no 1/4" drive torque wrench, so the water pump bolts got snugged down and another quarter turn. No leaks after 2 months, so I'm not expecting any.

Harbor Freight has Torque Wrenches on sale all the time for around $12
I picked up 1/2 and 1/4 since they were low cost

I do a web search for their club coupons and find great deals

I wouldn't call a HF torque wrench a good deal if they paid me to take it. Somehow I don't think I'd trust a torque wrench that's worth less than the bolt I'm using it to tighten. It's just one of those tools I wouldn't cheap out on. Using that torque spec of "a 1/4 turn shy of stripped" hasn't always worked out so well either.

I have three torque wrenches (40-200 in-lbs, 5-75 ft-lbs, 50-200 ft-lbs), all Snap-On and all recently calibrated. Got them all from Ebay for less than a 1/3 of their retail value, and then spent an extra $40 on a fresh calibration, so for a total investment of about $350 I have top-notch tools that I can trust.

FWIW, I used a Harbor Freight torque wrench (Taiwanese, not Chinese) when I replaced the cylinder head on my E320. No issues. Although HF does have a rep. for cheapness, their torque wrenches seem to be fairly accurate.

I don't know, I checked them against my buddies Snap-on ones and they were good.

I spent $25 and you spent $350

If i was a pro mechanic, I would probably go with pro tools, as a DIY.....and a reasonably accurate one is better than none at all

When it comes to water-cooling i.e. critical engine parts I leave it to the experts.
And most DIY's dont have airlift to vac fill. Air bubles can be stubborn. Many repeated cycles to make sure you're not baking up some hot pockets. At least invest in your own airlift.

After having placed my order in for a water pump and thermostat I am now thinking I should have ordered hoses as the associated ones would be 13 years old.

When any of you replaced or had replaced the water pump did you replace any hoses?
If so which ones?

Thanks, Guy.

No...
 

I didn't replace any hoses.
Mine are still pliable & uncracked. They crushed flat very nicely under Airlift vacuum.
I check all of them annually anyway when the car goes in for winter hibernation.

I ordered the conposite non factory one from Pelican last weekend. They called Tuesday (Monday was a Holiday) to let me know it was out of stock. Later telling me it could be August before they were back in stock.

The one I just took out was non factory. I put in a factory pump. Factory pump weighs about a pound more. Feels more robust & seems to be better molded.

Ok, not to be cheerleading for the dealer again, but these cars have lifetime coolant...any objective evidence this is not the case?

I ordered the Porsche water pump from Pelican Parts as the oem/composite one was out of stock.

Suncoast Parts had a composite one but I figured I would get the higher end one from Pelican. It gives me piece of mind. Plus I have dealt with Pelican before and they have a good reputation. G.


PS Thanks for above re hoses being okay. Kind of like renovating a house, where does it end......

Unfortunately, "lifetime" is a relative term. Depending upon your annual mileage, after about 4-5 years the additives will start to break down in the coolant, reducing its effectiveness against corrosion, etc. You can test your coolant (pH, freeze point, clarity, etc.) and actually see the coolant dying off over time.

DIY is the way to go with these water pumps. Don't expect original Porsche to last long either.

http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/49670-water-pump-way-out.html

Except for the PITA of dealing with coolant, the actual WP change is relatively easy. All bolts except for one can actually be reached with a torque wrench, too.

I invested in the Airlift vacuum system; well worth the bucks IMHO. My compressor is only 4 gallon (they say you need a 10 minimum) and works perfectly. I've heard of others that have even smaller ones and it's worked ok too.

What is easiest way to remove the really stuck on hoses that are connected to the water pump and thermostat? Mine are really stuck on and I am at stand still with this. Is there a penetrating lube or tool someone can recommend?
Thanks

Use a rad hose pick. Poke it in between the hose and the nipple and work it around the outside. The hose will pop right off.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/OBJECTS/47000/46951.JPG

Where did you find the tool? I tried oriellys and auto zone, they are both near my home, but neither had them.

I just used a flat blade screwdriver, taking my time to work around the hoses to break the bond to the metal. I had to add a little extra to the cuss-box, but it finally broke the hoses free.

Yet another Harbor Freight cheapie: $3. http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-radiator-hose-pick-96572.html

Flag down a Snap-on or Mac guy. Or Ebay