Brake Fluid Flush! DIY or Dealer??

[donv]

IMO, you'll still end up doing your last caliper with the "friend pumps" method. Why? The Motive keeps the fluid reservoir filled to the absolute top - you'll want to drain it down a bit so it falls at the max fill line. Easiest way to do this is to pull the Motive when doing the last side of the last caliper.

One other caution - take off the pressure from the bleeder if you are doing a pads change at the same time or for any reason you feel the urge to swing the caliper off the disc. There is no way to stop the caliper from traveling too far with just human hands (or the tools you will have at your side) once you notice it happening under the pressure from the Motive bleeder. Ask me how I know...

[jeff740]

LOts of excellent and helpful tips in this forum related to the brake flush....A couple of gents have recommended bleeding the clutch as well as it is apparently supplied by the same reservoir. I actually had no idea that this was the case and I am wondering now what is involved in bleeding the clutch??? Where is the bleeder port and how should I work this is with the 4 wheel brake bleeders?? Once again, I consider myself decently handy around the vehicle...however I've never done a clutch fluid flush and most definitely wanna keep out of the stealership for this one!

Thanks.

Jeff.

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by jeff740

LOts of excellent and helpful tips in this forum related to the brake flush....A couple of gents have recommended bleeding the clutch as well as it is apparently supplied by the same reservoir. I actually had no idea that this was the case and I am wondering now what is involved in bleeding the clutch??? Where is the bleeder port and how should I work this is with the 4 wheel brake bleeders?? Once again, I consider myself decently handy around the vehicle...however I've never done a clutch fluid flush and most definitely wanna keep out of the stealership for this one!

Thanks.

Jeff.

Jeff,

Here is a copy of a post I made the other day to answer this very same question from Adam. Hope it helps...

Hi,

It's simple and if Flushing/Bleeding the Brakes, you're already halfway there. The Slave Cylinder (at the upper left of the Tranny) has the same type of Bleed Nipple as the Brake Calipers do.

First, you want to raise the Car securely. Then fill the Reservoir to the MAX line with fresh Brake Fluid (DOT4), fill and attach the Brake Bleeder.

Now, you press the Clutch Pedal to the Floor and hold it in place with a Stick, Sno-Scraper (sorry Ronzi - couldn't resist) or anything which will hold the Pedal to the Floor, and then pump up the Power Bleeder to no more than 22 psi (I recommend 15-18 psi for an older Car as too much pressure can hurt the seals).

Then go under the Car and attach a piece of plastic tubing to the Bleed Nipple on the Slave Cylinder which is at the upper left side of the Transmission and into a catch bottle. Be sure to immerse the Tube end in fluid in the catch bottle to prevent drawing any air into the system.

Then you open the Bleeder Nipple and allow the Fluid to run out into the Bottle until it is clean and clear of any bubbles. Then close the Nipple, release the Pedal and de-pressurize the Bleeder and remove it, reinstall the Reservoir Cap - you're done.

If you're Flushing/Bleeding the Brakes, there's no need to do anything except push the Pedal to the Floor and swing over to the Slave Cylinder Bleed Nipple as your last task. Will add maybe 5-10 min. to the Brake Bleed/Flush, you already have the Power Bleeder out and filled with Fluid, etc., so it's worth it.

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[Tony W]

Jim99, I have just purchased a power Bleeder because the clutch bleed without it is sooo difficult. You need the the arms and hands of an Orangatang!
I havent used it yet so I was surprised by your comment that it was necessary to hold the clutch peddle to the floor. Why is this?

Tony W

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

Jeff,

Here is a copy of a post I made the other day to answer this very same question from Adam. Hope it helps...

Hi,

It's simple and if Flushing/Bleeding the Brakes, you're already halfway there. The Slave Cylinder (at the upper left of the Tranny) has the same type of Bleed Nipple as the Brake Calipers do.

First, you want to raise the Car securely. Then fill the Reservoir to the MAX line with fresh Brake Fluid (DOT4), fill and attach the Brake Bleeder.

Now, you press the Clutch Pedal to the Floor and hold it in place with a Stick, Sno-Scraper (sorry Ronzi - couldn't resist) or anything which will hold the Pedal to the Floor, and then pump up the Power Bleeder to no more than 22 psi (I recommend 15-18 psi for an older Car as too much pressure can hurt the seals).

Then go under the Car and attach a piece of plastic tubing to the Bleed Nipple on the Slave Cylinder which is at the upper left side of the Transmission and into a catch bottle. Be sure to immerse the Tube end in fluid in the catch bottle to prevent drawing any air into the system.

Then you open the Bleeder Nipple and allow the Fluid to run out into the Bottle until it is clean and clear of any bubbles. Then close the Nipple, release the Pedal and de-pressurize the Bleeder and remove it, reinstall the Reservoir Cap - you're done.

If you're Flushing/Bleeding the Brakes, there's no need to do anything except push the Pedal to the Floor and swing over to the Slave Cylinder Bleed Nipple as your last task. Will add maybe 5-10 min. to the Brake Bleed/Flush, you already have the Power Bleeder out and filled with Fluid, etc., so it's worth it.

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by Tony W

Jim99, I have just purchased a power Bleeder because the clutch bleed without it is sooo difficult. You need the the arms and hands of an Orangatang!
I havent used it yet so I was surprised by your comment that it was necessary to hold the clutch peddle to the floor. Why is this?

Tony W

Hi,

Because the Clutch Master Cylinder does not have it's own reservoir, it needs to have the pedal depressed in order to draw from the one shared with the Brakes. Also, putting pressure behind the Master when connecting the Power Bleeder will cause the Clutch pedal to be moved by this pressure possibly damaging the Clutch Master. Here is a Quote straight from the Dealer Service Manual :

• " Before the system is Filled, or Bled, the Clutch Pedal must be in the " Pedal Fully Depressed" Position.
  IMPORTANT: Because there is no System Pressure, servo kinematic effects will cause the Clutch Pedal to move forward abruptly. In order to avoid damage, the Pedal must be guided manually. "

Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99