Convertible top won't close - searched - please help!

[schoir]

Originally Posted by stateofidleness

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Well I had one of these delivered today as well and am in the middle of the swap. I'm at the point where I have the new one in, but the V-lever is in a different spot than my original was. I guess this is the "syncing" I see a lot of DIY's reference. I'm not understanding the drill approach. I put my drill on the cable end of the new transmission, give it a few presses, but I don't see the V-lever side move at all. Is that supposed to happen?

What is the other option to get the V-levers lined up? disconnect the passenger side (original and working) and then use the car's switch to make it rotate? Do I keep the incorrect V-lever side cable connected or disconnected during this?

Because there is a slot at the rear of the V-levers there are two possible ways to install them...the correct position and 180 degrees off. So, first check to see if you may have re-installed that V-lever upside down.

More likely, the new transmission was at a different point in the rotation cycle than the one that you removed. For the drill approach, disconnect the drive cable from the electric motor on that side and insert the inner metal cable into the chuck of a cordless drill, set on the LOWEST torque setting. When you turn on the drill, it will spin the inner cable which will turn the worm gear at the rear of the transmission and that will then rotate the big gear and the V-lever will then start to rotate.

Make sure that you put a little pressure on the end of the inner metal cable by pushing the drill towards the transmission. It is sometimes possible to just pull out the inner metal cable from its metal sheath, so make sure that it is engaged.

The drill will spin quickly but the V-lever will rotate slowly.

If the lever does not rotate at all, the inner metal cable may be split or frayed, or the worm gear may not be completely secured in its place because the black plastic housing cover may be slightly deformed.

If you want to try the other option, just keep in mind that pressing the button will only turn the V-lever if the electric motor is spinning with the drive cable properly engaged both at the electric motor side and at the transmission side.

You have to have the "original and working side" disconnected so that the other side can "catch up".

If you want a good starting point for synchronizing the transmissions, take a look at the photo on page 39 and the text at the bottom of page 38 on the Part III PDF at this link: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/installinga'03-'04glasstopandframeona'97

Regards, Maurice.

[opus69]

Looks like you have gotten excellent advice thus far. Just went through a similar issue with my 2002S. Right side drive cable was broken. That was not the cause of failure. The problem you had with ball pin stuck in the black spring push-rod is what caused mine to fail. Forced the upper pin of the black push-rod out (under tension & big pop). The bat wing Vee bar was so tight I don't think I could have loosened it with a box wrench. I used a socket and breaker bar (long pipe on handle of 1/2 inch drive). Not good for your tools but one click at the time it finally came loose. The rear bolt to top push-rod was fairly easy
Then to the vise to pry black push-rod off ball pin. Corrosion of this socket caused failure. Cleaned and lubed socket and now working. Had to use the vise to press ball back into socket. Replacements on order. I hate to cut any parts. As Maurice said you have to spin the cable a lot for very little movement. If you are certain the drive cable is good and you are certain the transmission is not moving, there is a plastic gear in the trans mission that can break. Not totally convinced a corroded socket caused failure I did open the transmission. Fortunately all was fine inside. Transmissions are very expensive so you don't want to go there. If you do open the transmission do so very carefully. There are alignment marks on case. If the plastic gear is bad I think you have to buy the whole transmission. I would be very certain it doesn't move before tearing into it. If you think the cable is bad you can pull the inner core out to make sure it is intact. Good Luck.

[stateofidleness]

To provide closure, I got this all sorted!

After installing the new (used) driver's side transmission, the drill "trick" and even hooking it up to the motor never turned the v-lever... I was exhausted, but knew it was most likely the cable not being "seated" in the metal roller on the transmission side (I figured this as I disassembled the removed one to see what the internals looked like).

So back apart it came... reseated the cable, and glued it in as well. Also glued the cable itself to the 3 clips on the transmission body to keep it from pulling out also.

After re-install, the drill trick started to work! got it close to the other side and then used the motor/switch method. Used the door "gap" and a tape measure to get both sides even. Worked like a charm. Top opens and closes perfectly now (even more flush than before the failure!!)

So... the reason for the failure was the white plastic gear inside the transmission housing. For kicks, I checked the "new" one (from an '03) and it also had hairline cracks in the plastic gear. So only a matter of time I suppose.

Appreciate all the support!