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02 Boxster or 01 Boxster S
Hello everyone! I am in the search of finding my Boxster and I am completely confused as to which would be a better deal. Both have the same price
1) 2002 Boxster 2.7 with 53000 Miles 2) 2001 Boxster S 3.2 with 80000 Miles Both have good service records, and a 3 month warranty for the dealers but not sure which would be a better deal. I would appreciate any advice and I know every car is different but I would like to know if you were in my shoes which would you go for and why. Thanks everyone ! :-) |
Tough call! Did you drive them both, and if so, did one speak to you? Additionally, does one seem a bit more cared for than the other?
If you would be happy with the performance of the 2.7 with fewer miles and a year newer, then I'd lean towards the 2.7. Other than the obvious differences between an S and a baseline, there shouldn't be many differences between 2001 and 2002. IIRC, an in-dash cup holder was a first in 2002, not that that would make-or-break the deal. |
S S S S S S S S S S S S!!!!!!
To this day I am still mad at myself for not getting a S. Now I am very performance hungry so if you like to cruise around then go lower miles. if you feel the need for speed....... S |
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A bit of reading for you as you contemplate the difference Buying a Boxster If you haven't found exactly what you are searching for, then keep looking! Shopping is just as much fun as owning:cheers: |
I intentionally did not try an S as I felt the 2001 Boxster base had sufficient power and slightly better fuel consumption. Mine had 30k on it 2 years ago when I bought it so the components like water pump, coolant reservoir, etc had less miles on them.
As the above poster says try both. Make sure the one you want has the options u want like manual vs. tiptronic, heated seats, psm etc. Of course you should try several and for sure get a PPI on it before you commit. :)Enjoy the ride. |
I havent got a full test drive yet on both cars, that will be tomorrow but lots of 20-30MPH roads and top speed on motorways are 70mph here :-(
Unless I decide to take them out to Germany; to the Autobahn... :-) I am trying to be as cold as possible but I am sure I am just not going to be level headed with the test drive tomorrow. All I ever am going to be is excited, so I doubt its going to help. I will probably come out none the wiser from both drives. Just looking at the figures alone; what would be sound judgement? I know it sounds like a egg or chicken question, but I bet its a lot of fun for you guys who already own a boxster and know the pros/cons. Thanks for the replies guys.. its metallic blue (both) and tan interior.. loving the combination and.. each time I think of inclining towards the S, I get worried about the problems that could creep up due to mileage. Both are manual transmission. |
Both cars are fairly old in terms of years and will need to be maintained regardless of miles. Has the Base Boxster had its 60K service? Do either have an updated IMSB? Brake Pads, Clutch? brake fluid, how old are the tires. I recently replaced my front tires for the first time since owning the car. I was using the originals for a while.
Do either have any leaks, is there condensation on the trunk near the coolant cap, any white smoke after driving for half an hour, does the car make any noise at start up? I just spent $4500 doing preventative maintenance on my 2002 base boxster with 47K miles. If you are buying such an old boxster you will have to do maintainence. Make sure you get a good price. |
Good questions. For instance if you drive an MX5 Miata you get more time at the upper end of the revs. Compare the Box base vs. the Box s with the s it is harder to get revs up with high speed because of speed limits. That is one reason I like the Box base as I am less likely to get a speeding ticket than with an s.
30K more miles for the s puts u closer to clutch replacement. Of course ask for receipts for work done. It shows how well the car has been looked after . Has the clutch/ ims/rms been replaced already? Don't rush into this decision. It is a buyers' market here although I don't know about the UK. Let us know what you decide. Read all you can on these forums about the Boxster. Try also Pelican Parts forum /Boxster, Rennlist forums/Boxster , Pedros etc. |
Ckrikos: Thanks for the advice, I have been reading up as much as possible. I am building a check-list now for tomorrow based on points from the forum.
The price on both models are approx USD$10,500. recycledsixtie: Thanks for the advice, I was very concerned about the IMS issue and thats going on top of my list. |
I have sent u a private message:)
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Get the S!!!!! Nobody buys a Porsche for fuel economy. There is no such thing as sufficient power... in a few months you'll want more.
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If I were to do it all over again..I would buy an S. I love my base 2.5 dont get me wrong but..always longing for a little more umph and a 6sp gear box would be great
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If I could do it again, I'd get the S as well. Spent many months looking for a black Boxster but only found one in a base model.
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+1 on the "S" as well as long as there are no existing issues. I have a base and as others of said you'll be very happy with it, but after the "Newness" wears off, you'll start to think about the "What if's" about the "S". I know I did.
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:-(
Just got news from the dealer that the S was gone. I was inclining towards the S model, it was also in my favourite combination, but oh well.. This narrows it down to the base model 2002, 2.7 with 53000 miles. I either wait it off or get this as my entry Porsche and when I do find the S model in the combination I like, do a part exchange etc.. |
Sorry to hear....but trust us that "S" or no "S" you will LOVE the Box regardless!!! Good luck with your purchase!!!
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kris, that is a fairly significant difference in mileage - depending upon how you plan on using it, I would think it would be another couple or more years of driving before the base hits the mileage of the S. That being said, the S is a 2001 and may have the dual-row bearings (check the engine serial numbers that are listed elsewhere, even though they are not full-proof after the early 2000's). That would certainly be a factor in favour of the S, even though it has higher mileage. Remember, even with an LN upgraded bearing (or the solution, which is for single-row bearings), you can only replace a single row with a single row. Remember also that the failure rate on the double rows is less than 1% (even though the double-row equipeed cars are older) as opposed to 8-10% for the single rows.
Not sure of the options (or even standard equipment) on the British cars, but if the base is equipped with the optional 17 inch turbo twist rims and tires (equivalent to the S), the handling will be very close - turn in as not quite as precise, but also without quite as harsh a ride. Acceleration/top speed with be noticeably better with the S, however many (including me) find the base to be more than adequate (and more than enough to get me into trouble). Certainly it is a significant improvement (especially in terms of flexibility) over the 2.5. As others have said, maintenance records and frequent oil changes are hugely important. I'm betting that the base has had oil changes yearly - and with only 53,000 miles, depending upon delivery date, that would be only about 5,000 miles a year. Much better than Porsche's original recommendation, but in line with what people (inlcuding LN Engineering) are now recommending. Once you decided which you prefer, get a PPI with an oil change and have the mechanic cut open the oil filter for you to inspect for particles. Good luck! Brad |
Sorry Kris, as I was posting my reply you advised that the S was sold. If you really prefer the S, then don't settle for a base. There will be others. Who knows, you may find an early 2000 S with the dual row bearing, lower mileage, oil changes every 5000 miles and with the combination (I assume that means of options, as I gather the colour scheme was the same) that you prefer.
Brad |
Thanks for the advice guys..
I will be looking at another S tomorrow but the mileage on the base model is very attractive. I think it would take another 3-4 years before I get to the mileage of the S and suppose once I am used to actually 'owning' a Porsche, I could go for better S model or maybe even a 911. 30,000 miles difference after the 50K mark is definitely a substantial difference. Its a good 2-3 years of pushing that Porsche. What I understand from the dealer about the 2.7 Porsche was it was weekend/garage car that was very gently used. To me its good news to hear because I can probably get a lot more out of the Porsche at this rate then one at 80,000 miles. I guess at some point I will have to draw the line of contention and make a reasonable purchase. Just one question, was the 2002 fitted with a single/double row bearing? Thanks I wasn't sure. |
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I will give it a few days and if its meant to be, it will be. I am excited and disappointed and confused.. all the emotions you probably have before having to wear that proud Porsche badge. I guess it must be a sensation that everyone in this forum must have had at some point when they are prepping to be in that 1st Porsche and call it their own. Looking forward to any advice I can receive and I have to say, kudos to the Admin and everyone on this forum as it seems to be the most comprehensive boxster 'guide' there is on the internet. Cheers everyone ! |
FWIW, I too will chime in on if you buy a base you'll want an S later. Or do really silly things like spend more money than it is worth putting a larger engine in it. :) I bought a low milage (67K) 99 base before I knew more about the 986 line. Had I ov known more, I'd have bought an S.
But doesn't matter if you get a base or an S, a Boxster is a fun car to drive. |
Considering the overwhelming advice.. I think I will wait on the right S model instead of settling for the base.
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There are lots of them out there. I drove bases and S models. It really came down to the one that felt right. That includes service history, options, mileage, and how the test drive felt. Patience(something I am not good at) is a virtue:cheers:
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I actually think the S is underpowered...but given the choice the S is the only way I'd go. I've drive many different Pcars, and I don't think the base models had adequate power until the 997.2 was released. Just my humble opinion.
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I spent weeks trolling the usual places and ended up sending a friend to look at one near Windsor(London) i live in Scotland. He said it was mint and it was, Black with Red leather plus a pair of speedster humps!. One owner, FPSH etc. It was a 2.7 with 56k and for me plenty fast enough. These cars are not about max speed, it's the handling where they are so much fun and 220hp is enough I think. Got mine out of storage today, got it MOT'd, taxed and took it for a blast, they are brilliant. Get the 2.7 if you like the look of it. I paid £8k for mine, I think £7k would buy the same car today. |
Hi Guys,
Thank you for all the input and advice. Here is the update.. Went for 2 test drives today, one with the 2.7 (50000 miles) and 3.2 (39000 miles). Both beautiful lapis blue with savannah leather, manual transmission. The test differences were very apparent. 3.2 had the extra horses and you could feel it. I have never driven a Porsche before and driving both gave me a good feel of both cars/engines. The mileage was also crucial, the 3.2 at 39000 miles felt a lot 'tighter' ;-) Handling was just amazing. It made me feel like an 'F1' driver taking corners with ease and not throwing myself or the passenger about in the car. It felt harmonious to say the least. And guys.. I finally got it.. yes that smile you get when you are behind the wheel of a Boxster. So I have paid the downpayment on the 3.2 S and looking to collect it on Thursday. Excited, (buyer's remorse might set in soon, probably till Thursday) Thanks again for all the advice, will post pics once I get the new addition to the family. Cheers everyone ! |
Congrats!!! Awesome choice my friend :cheers:
Can't wait to see the pics. |
Hi Kris,
I sent u a pm. Presumably you are going for a PPI? Whatever is wrong with it if you deem it acceptable then deduct the estimate on repairs from the asking price! Be aggressive with the haggling as you may need the $$$ later. Cheers, G.:dance: |
Congrats! And Lapis Blue to boot:D No buyer's remorse with the Boxster! A PPI is still a good idea. Are you still getting a 3 month warranty? I agree with recycledsixtie, use the PPI info to haggle. Post pics when you get it.
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We should start a survey though; how many of you have had buyers remorse after pulling the trigger and at what point did it set in? |
Congrats kris07...either base or S, there is no going wrong. Just drive the p*ss out of the car now and u won't be able to wipe that smile off of ur face!
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Hi Guys, I need some advice on this.
This is where it my purchase is at the moment. 2000 Boxster S, Manual 39000 miles (8 stamps on service history, porsche dealer/specialist stamps only, last at 38290 miles). So approx 1200 miles unaccounted for. I have paid a very small downpayment. The car is in impeccable cosmetic condition. Tomorrow I am supposed to collect the car with MOT and pre delivery inspection done, 12 months warranty from Customer Protect Gold policy (which I think is useless, companies never honour these things) Porsche dealership have said earliest that they can do the PPI and I can get the results would be on Monday. I spoke to the dealer, he said I didnt know you wanted to do a PPI but I wish I knew and I wouldnt have taken the deposit. The reason he said is, he has other buyers and could easily sell off the car over the weekend. I understand this as well, the car for the price could easily go and I have had a few cars with almost double the miles snatched up in a matter of 1-2 days after being on Autotrader. I will be paying $13,281 for the car. It also comes with the hardtop match color for winter. It has Porsche manuals and all repair records, MOTs and invoices. For this price I get the 12 month warranty as well. What should I do? Insist on PPI? :confused: |
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1) the car has all the records, and you have the warranty. In my opinion (which is worth nothing mind you) is that you should be ok. Get the PPI, after purchase and if they discover something terribly wrong you have the warranty cover it, or... 2) you have the PPI, find a problem you don't want to deal with, then you could put it on Autotrader and have it "snatched up" in a matter of 1-2 days. You could even sell it for enough to cover expenses. OR, after the PPI you find the car is in as good of condition as you thought and you got a good deal on a S. Then you get to experience the joy of "perma-grin" |
I agree... if it runs smooth, starts well when cold and hot and everything feels ok... I would buy it for that price. With the hard top for that price at that mileage its a good deal; Especially knowing all the services are up to date to 1200 miles ago...
And just think... you will have perma-grin before the weekend... H |
Kris, do you also get the invoices for the work that was done, or just the stamps in the warranty book? If not, I'd be somewhat worried - i.e., the previoius owner has the car in at the Porsche dealership at 38.000 miles for (?????) and then sells it (or trades it) 1000 miles later..... Like you, I wouldn't have much faith in the warranty (check the company out on the net and read the fine print, but I can't believe that it would cover pre-exisitng problems at the time of purchase).
I really do think that a PPI is important in these cars as it is not difficult to get up into the thousands in repairs. Is it a dual-row IMS bearing (did you check the engine serial number)? If not, it is not exceptioinally rare even for low-mileage versions to have IMS bearing failures. Have you tried other mechanics for the PPI - it doesn't have to be a Porsche dealer. At minimum, I would want someone to get it on a lift, check for leaks from the coolant expansion tank, check for leaks from the water pump (when dried, you'll see white powder), check for oil leaks, check to see what shape the suspension components are in and at that point, if all looks good, have the spark plugs removed and have a compression test done (and maybe a drip down test). If all still looks good, I would pay for an oil change. Once the filter is removed, have it cut in half and inspect for particles (should be nil, or virtually nil, if the last change was 1200 miles ago). If that is good, you will sleep much better. Brad |
I know many here talk about the importance of the PPI and I agree it's a good idea, but that said I didn't get one on my 03S when I bought it. The car had a full service history and drove like a sweetheart. Owned it for 2 years now and have almost doubled its mileage with no issues so far, so I'd have to say go for it!
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Hey all things aside... you gotta remember this thing is 13yrs old... and it doesn't matter what you buy at that age you'll likely have to put some money into it; especially if you're picky about your car. Porsche ownership doesn't come cheap (at least not as cheap as a regular cars) and as long as you remember that and are willing to pay the price, you should be ok buying it.
Too many people buy them and then complain that they had to spend 2-3K in the first year of ownership, or just neglect to do the maintenance because its too expensive... eventually you will pay for it :D |
Since you are buying from a Porsche Dealership AND you are getting a 12 month warranty, then I say go for it. Generally speaking, a dealership will only sell a car if they feel it is good, if not, it goes to auction. Seems like a good price.
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Hi Guys,
Here is the update, its not from a Porsche dealership. Its from a private car sales company however the last servicing was done at Porsche specialist at 38000 miles which leaves me with approx 1200 unwarranted miles. So I have spoken to the dealer and he said, I would rather return the deposit then to wait for a PPI for another week. I see his point and he has stressed on the warranty and the MOT inspection included pump, oil leaks under the ramp. So the way I look at it, I will probably do a PPI next week and include that as a clause that if there was anything major we agree at a buyback value and I limit my losses to perhaps 1000-2000USD. Thats the risk I am willing to take and I think I just have to be fair as well. Yesterday on my way home after the dealer with the Citroen C5 that I was on broke down after the motorway and needed a new clutch and fork that cost me close to USD500. Its got me exceptionally worried about warranties but thats a 80,000 mile car. Nevertheless major alarm bells started ringing. Of course I have to be objective here but you can't help but wonder. I am still a little worried, anything can go wrong after you drive off, these things happen but then again anything can happen whilst you sleep or sit on the couch, have a heartache etc. Thats life. Somewhere along the line, something will give way to wear and tear and there's just no 2 ways about it. Its good to worry but worrying too much is just not good. I used to certify fighter planes fit for flight daily, you always wondered if your plane would drop off the skies. LOL! Somehow insurance and warranties didn't stop me from worrying. Thats the worst it can get I suppose, I will certainly be a lot more confident behind a Boxster wheel :-) |
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