Is getting under the car for an oil change hard?
 

OK, so I've done a few things myself like the belt, brakes, filters, etc.

I know doing the actual oil change process and it is pretty easy too.

My biggest issue is that since I don't have a lift, it is a bit hard to get under the car. I was thinking of using ramps for the back wheels. How hard is it to access the filter and oil area?

I can't exactly see where it is, so I am not sure if I can reach it. I am not the most flexible person in the world so I am not sure if I have to roll under there or what, not too much clearance even with the ramps.

Can anyone clarify this step for me, or have any tips on the best and easiest way to reach the filter and oil plug?

And could I do it without ramps, and perhaps just the factory jack? (Maybe a jack stand to hold it safely in place too)

I just jake it up and use jack stands but ramps can also work. Definitely no need for a lift (but very nice to have!). Easy to get underneath. The oil drain plug is right in the center of the bottom of the engine and the oil filter is right next to it. Easy breezy. If you were in LA, I'd come by and do it with you.

This DIY has lots of good pics: Pelican Technical Article: Boxster Oil Change - 986 / 987

I feel more secure stretched out under a car raised on a set of ramps than I do under jack stands. But, I have learned caution over the years.

I use jack stands for jobs that don't require me to go under the car such as brake pad and spark plug changes.

I bought a set of Rhino Ramps and a pair of hard rubber wheel chocks a long time ago and they have paid for themselves many times. With a Boxster, the savings on one oil change more than pays for the ramps.

Ramps for me, works.

Once on the jack stands, I use the jack and spare wheels stacked front and rear as insurance. You can never be too safe. :cheers:

I agree. Jack stands are safe, but I like your "belt and suspenders" approach.

Just did my first oil change on my 02 S. I used jack stands but also two floor jacks as security. It still scares the hell out of me under the car though it was stable as can be. I also replaced tranny mounts and its a bit unnerving when torquing real hard on a bolt when you are under there. I think I may buy some ramps just to feel a bit more secure. The oil change is a piece of cake, probably the easiest DIY other than a filter change. If you can get it in the air then you can definitely change the oil and filter.

The oil change is pretty easy to do IF the oil plug is not over-torqued. I had serious problems getting the thing out the first time I did an oil change.
Also make sure that you have the special tool to remove the plastic oil filter housing, it can break easily. Use a torque wrench to reinstall the oil plug (with a fresh crush ring) and the oil filter.

I put one side of the car on level jackstands, then the other side. This way the oil flows a bit better out of the sump. I also keep a 3-ton floorjack under the car as well. I only have used my Rhino Ramps on my E320 (and older cars), but not on my Boxster yet.

Does doing an oil change yourself really save money?

10 quarts of oil and a filter costs roughly $130. I haven't paid for one myself, but don't they usually run around $130-$150?

I remember when I first got my Boxster and took it to the dealer for an oil change and air filters.

The cost was almost $600.00 :eek:

So yes doing it yourself saves quite a bit over the life of your car.

Reference the cost of a do-it-yourself oil & filter change

1. I use Mobile 1. Usually 15W50 or 10W40 High Mileage.

2. I purchase the oil in the 5 quart jugs from Walmart at $25.00 a jug.

3. I purchase the filter & washer from Pelican parts (about .50 cents for the washer and about $11.00 for the filter).

4. Yes, it is significantly cheaper to do it yourself.

MNC-I

Fore me I prefer ramps. It's much easier than jack and jack stands.

I think most of us do it ourselves not just to save money but more of a satisfaction of knowing we're doing this right with care. At least this is why I do it.
Besides I really do not trust other doing it for me unless i'm there watching what they pour in to fill and how much oil they put in. One of our biggest problems is oil overfill which causes AOS to go out.

Do a survey to those that had this go out. I estimate half of them will say it's right after their oil change.

When I drain my oil i look at everything I have access to under the car. I also let the oil drain as long as needed. If I see oil still dripping I leave it alone and let it darin. Even if it takes more than 1 hr.

When I fill I use the same amount that came out, do a test drive and re-check my oil level before adding anymore.

I guarantee you that no shop will do this for an oil change. Time is money for them.

vs. going to my independent mechanic, I don't find it all that cheaper to DIY since I'm not buying Mobil 1 and stopped doing so once the car hit 50K miles.
And going forward as the engine gets older, I'll be protecting it with more expensive fill (Motul, Redline, JG, etc.). I'll also be adding the spin on filter which they don't give away for free with every 5 quart jug. My mechanic doesn't make money on the oil/filter, I usually provide. So I'm paying $20-$30 for the convenience, and generally I have the oil changed when other things are being worked on in their shop.

I'd say the advantage to DIY is that you can drain the oil overnight and get out all the old stuff.
The dealer or mechanic will only let it drain for an hour or so.

Can you fit two sets of ramps under the car, or do you need one set of ramps and one set of stands to do the job?

Anyone ever use an oil extractor? Feedback?
If they work, it would be a lot cleaner.

Motive Products Power Extractor Allows Easy Evacuation of Engine Oil, Transmission Fluid, Brake Fluid and other Fluids : Amazon.com : Automotive

Amazon.com: Mityvac (MITMV7400) 7.3 Liter Fluid Evacuator: Automotive

I'm sure there's good use for this but for normal oil changes I would prefer to drain the oil. If I overfilled the oil this will be a good clean method to bring the oil level down.

This method will extract the oil but it will leave more used oil in the system than draining the oil. I'm sure most will not be satisfied with this.

You can only fit one pair of ramps since you really can't fit another set of ramps on the front wheels under the car.

When using a ramp, I back it in. My driveway has a slight incline to the street.

I back in to the ramp and I also use a piece of 2x4 for the front wheel.

Where in So Cal are you?
I also do oil changes for my Son In-Law 03 S so i bought a cheap ramp from Pep boys. Works perfectly fine.

I'm in the Cochella Valley - Palm Springs, Palm Desert, Indio area.

I thought there wasn't room for two sets of ramps, but wanted to be sure when I saw the word "ramps" I wasn't sure. In the past, I've found the same thing. One set of low ramps and one set of stands will usually get it in the right spot. But if I could have just used two sets of ramps that would have made it a LOT easier. I'm looking to do my first oil change in the next couple of weeks.

Oil extractor does not work.

To answer your original question,

It is not hard if you do it like this:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8214/8...e1d46355_z.jpg
Disclaimer: That jack stand shown under rear suspension is not holding up any weight of the car. It is there just in case the main jacks on the jack points fail.

I have always changed my own oil & filter to insure the most old oil gets out & pre fill the new filter with new oil to minimize time for new oil to circulate. This prevents oil light from coming on during initial startup.

not hard for me, I bought a lift. Best investment you can make.

Dig a hole in your yard, about 2 feet wide. Park over it.:D

My 5,000 mile oil change (Castrol Full Synthetic) is coming up, so exactly how deep should the hole be?

And will the city inspector require a permit to be pulled.

ByProDriver,

How is the plenum upgrade going?

PM me or call (714) 213-9911, so we can hook up, I'm very interested in the extra 'S' intake manifold.

I live in OC

Really? How did you come to this conclusion? Folks can debate the merits of vacuuming oil vs a traditional drain, but I assure it works, even on a 986 (though I'd not recommend it as there is the potential for getting the hose stuck).

I will say it has worked great on my other cars. I do it hot and suck it out. Can change the oil & filter in a suit in the current BMW as the filter is on top of the engine. I have 3 different sized lines for my extractor, but will go the manual method before I even try it and inspect afterwords. Also, don't use a crappy extractor..it won't work on cars it is meant for, either. On the BMW, it leaves it bone dry. I pulled the plug and not a drop. I think the key is that the oil HAS to be hot. I wouldn't expect the same results from cooler oil. That being said, I'm not going to risk it for now....

I love my Rhinos. Had 'em for years.
My driveway has just enough slope that the Boxster sits level with the rear of the car backed up on the ramps. Yeah, it's a little cozier than working under my Accord DD, but it's not like I'm camping out under the car, just spinning off the filter housing and unscrewing the drain plug and buttoning it back up.
It would be great if I could convince the wife I really need a 4-post lift, but I've got a feeling it would be a tough sell...