If you find any water pump impeller plastic bits in your oil pan or valve covers, then you have already experience "catastrophic consequences" and should be shopping for a new motor. I don''t think this is a failure that even Jake has seen.

The oil bone is not connected to the coolent bone. But flushing the coolent system would be a good idea.

Even though my 2003S still has under 40,000kms on the clock, I've already purchased a replacement water pump and will install it later this year. It's not an expensive part and it's always best to do preventative maintenance on your own schedule than be forced into an emergency repair when you may not be in a good financial position to do so.

....and change the thermostat too. :cheers:

My water pump just failed. The actual pulley snapped off. The pump shaft cracked. I hope the bearing just seized and nothing went into the engine.

I just did the replacement on my 2000 S. It failed on I95 in Florida at about 85 mph. So had insurance tow it to my local mechanic (Porsche specialist) and he diagnosed it, then wanted almost $1400. So had it towed to the Air Force base I work at and used the auto hobby shop (a DIY garage with lifts and all tools you will ever need).

Did the work for less than $700 including towing, lift rental, initial mechanic diagnosis, and parts.

However, I'd like to say a HUGE THANK YOU to all of you in this forum for the help and advice you've posted over the years. I used the advice you provide to make all of the right choices. Like using the 90 degree knuckle for the ratchet, that was immensely helpful.
Also, a quick info on parts. I used the Petosin (spelling??) as it was recommended by my mechanic. The big caveat is to make sure you flush the system completely with distilled water. I used about 5 gallons of the distilled water to flush, then just over 4 when I filled at completion.

Again, this was immensely helpful when I attacked the water pump, thermostat and new belt.
Cheers!

thanks to all for the information. I changed the pump after it failed this weekend with minimal effort.
Cheers!:cheers:

When my water pump blew it made a loud clicking/thunking noise and I thought it was the IMS. Scary!

If you find the impeller blades have broken off, try to find all the missing pieces.
One place to look is the oil/water heat exchanger on the top of the engine. The debris will plug it. You will need 2 new pairs of "O" rings.The other place to look is in the large hoses near the w/p. If you can not match up and account for all the pieces ,check back with us for more suggestions.

You will need 4 "O" rings. 2 for oil side and 2 for water side. They are different sizes.

I have a thought on these failures. I store my vehicle most winters for some time. I am thinking I will be removing the serpentine belt during these periods - wondering if the tension exerted on the one side of the bearing is what causes some of the failure issue - Thoughts?

Steel bearings withstand 350,000 PSI and you belt may be tensioned to ~30 lbs exerting a pressure of perhaps 1000 lbs on a square inch of bearing.
No, removing the belt wont help the bearings at all.

In fact not having the belt on the engine will prevent you from starting the car up periodically, which is definitely good to help everything get some fresh lubrication throughout the winter.

You are much better off leaving the belt on and running the engine for a while (20+ minutes to allow the oil and radiator to get nice and hot) each month With the garage door wide open and your house door completely shut so you don't succumb to carbon monoxide poisoning.

High temp issues
 

Well, I spoke too soon it appears. I posted earlier about the waterpump/thermostat replacement and all of it going very well; until today. I had thought I bled the system the way it was intended as yesterday and this am the needle was solid steady between the 1 & 8 in 180. Then at 1230 today driving back from lunch the car goes up to the far side of the 0. Checked the coolant and all was in the allowable ranges but after sitting for 4 hours I was about 3/4 of a gallon low. The gauge went back to normal for a bit and then it won't stop climbing now.

Did I not bleed it enough? I've been reading as much as I possibly can to see if I need to keep bleeding and I've found very little. Some say one and done; others say run with bleeder valve open for 3 days or more.

Can any of you chime in here?
Thanks for any help as you guys & girls have some phenomenal advice.
Cheers.