Water Pump Failure Process
 

What is the warning process if a water pump fails on an early (2000) Boxster? Are there sensors for a failure or does the engine have to reach a certain temperature? If so, what is that temp - is it measured via oil or water - or something else? Are there audible alarms or just dash blinky lights?

Thanks.

the signs for failing water pump will be noise and/or water leak from the pump.
you can inspect the pump by removing the belt, and spinning it with your hand.
the pulley should spin freely, with no play or noise.

Thanks! How about during vehicle operation - if it were to fail while driving?

Mine just went on my 99. It was cold out so I had a lot of smoke coming out of the rear where the coolant was smoking off of the engine's headers. If you've lost all of your coolant the engine temp will also start to rise very quickly - if this happens STOP! and turn off the car and get a tow. It is an easy replacement to do on your own (a way to lift the car up is very useful though)

Early warning indicators:

• Coolent weeping from water pump (may or may not drip)
• Small drops of coolent under engine
• Smell of coolant from outside car or from passenger side engine compartment vent
• Coolent repeatedly slightly low and needing "topping up"
• Water pump bearing noise
• Engine temp running slightly hotter than typical

When the water pump actually fails, you can expect one or more of the following;

• Lots of coolent on ground
• Clouds of smoke/steam from coolent burning off on engine
• Heavy smell of coolent from outside car or from passenger side engine compartment vent
• Engine temp going to max
• Engine temp warning light turning on indicating max temp reached
• Engine temp warning light flashing indicating need to shut down engine immediately

let me make it easier for you.
look at your odometer. if it reads over 70K, do yourself a favor and replace the pump.
70K is 10K more then the recommended on the Porsche service book. the damage that can be caused by a failing pump doesn't worth it.
beside the risk of over heating, the pump impeller is made of plastic.
when the pump files, small pieces of plastic can go on the coolant circuit, and can clog
small coolant passages.
i know you didn't ask (yet), but yes, go with a new OEM pump.

When it's going out, you will smell antifreeze. But you don't have much time left at that point because antifreeze is streaming out.

By engine temp being at max, does that mean the light only comes on when the needle hits the red at 250 degreees?

The car I'm buying has 46k miles - so not quite up there yet in mileage. But something I will be considered if I have or do any work on it. And of course it can fail at anytime - just wanting to know what to look for!

No two failures are the same. Impellers can fail and bearings can fail, then impellers can begin to spin on the shafts. Being reactive is when things get expensive.

I have a 2000S and it is on its third water pump. I changed it out strictly as a precautionary step to avoid any future issues. There were absolutely no outward signs of failure, but after removing it, there were three failed impeller blades. The cost of replacing the water pump is relatively low compared to the cost of a repairing the motor if serious damage happens from a cooling system failure. If your car is on its original water pump, I would put it on the list of things to address in the near future. Waiting for it to fail is playing Russian roulette with your engine.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1360031686.jpg

Did the three pieces of broken impellor blade come out in the flush, or are there still pieces of plastic floating (possible clogging pipes) around inside the motor?

Original water pump failed @ 32,000 mi. 1st replacement pump failed @ 68,000 mi. 2nd replacement pump failed @ 95,000 mi.

So, I'm on pump #4 @ 98,600 mi. 3 FAILURES in 95,000 mi. I'm 2nd owner, bought car just prior to failure @ 68,000. Thought it must be a fluke. Now I know better.

R & R pump every 30,000 mi.

2000 986 base.

I replaced mine with a Beck Arnley 131-2307 Water Pump which came with a metal impeller as opposed to the oem's plastic, I am hoping that if nothing else, the fins won't break off and cause more damage.

Metal impellers are a no no. They can damage the block when they break. Why do you think Porsche uses the plastic. My 2000S with TIP, 78,000 miles with the original water pump and original coolant. Now, if you live in a cold climate and it freezes a lot this may cause the plastic to weaken, I live in Florida. Just my opinion.

Calendar time is the killer for impellers, not mileage.

When the bearings start to wear, and shaft begins to wobble (as all water pump shafts do over time), those metal impeller blades can make contact with the engine case and do some damage.

Mine just failed catastrophically. When I left the garage no noise, no drips on the floor, no smell. The pump had been replaced 1.5 years ago and the coolant level had not moved more than an ounce or two since then. The old pump was flawless and spun smooth and all that. All of a sudden near Sonoma the 308 that was behind me started to hang back a ways. A mile or so later along with clouds of steam the low coolant light came on and 5 gallons of coolant was on the road in minutes. I have yet to pull it apart again, but I can see where the pulley has hit the pump and any water that goes into the car comes strait back out.

The first time the Boxster has seen a flatbed....

-Greg

Here's the link to the original post.
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/35434-go-ahead-procrastinate-like-i-did.html

I would just like to point out the irony of me making this thread then my water pump failed after 4 days of ownership.

I'm never making a thread asking about a failure process again!

This has probably been said here before but I would think that if the impeller blades fail, one should dump the oil pan and valve cowers to look for plastic bits before they clog some passages with catastrophic consequences?

If you find any water pump impeller plastic bits in your oil pan or valve covers, then you have already experience "catastrophic consequences" and should be shopping for a new motor. I don''t think this is a failure that even Jake has seen.

The oil bone is not connected to the coolent bone. But flushing the coolent system would be a good idea.

Even though my 2003S still has under 40,000kms on the clock, I've already purchased a replacement water pump and will install it later this year. It's not an expensive part and it's always best to do preventative maintenance on your own schedule than be forced into an emergency repair when you may not be in a good financial position to do so.

....and change the thermostat too. :cheers:

My water pump just failed. The actual pulley snapped off. The pump shaft cracked. I hope the bearing just seized and nothing went into the engine.

I just did the replacement on my 2000 S. It failed on I95 in Florida at about 85 mph. So had insurance tow it to my local mechanic (Porsche specialist) and he diagnosed it, then wanted almost $1400. So had it towed to the Air Force base I work at and used the auto hobby shop (a DIY garage with lifts and all tools you will ever need).

Did the work for less than $700 including towing, lift rental, initial mechanic diagnosis, and parts.

However, I'd like to say a HUGE THANK YOU to all of you in this forum for the help and advice you've posted over the years. I used the advice you provide to make all of the right choices. Like using the 90 degree knuckle for the ratchet, that was immensely helpful.
Also, a quick info on parts. I used the Petosin (spelling??) as it was recommended by my mechanic. The big caveat is to make sure you flush the system completely with distilled water. I used about 5 gallons of the distilled water to flush, then just over 4 when I filled at completion.

Again, this was immensely helpful when I attacked the water pump, thermostat and new belt.
Cheers!

thanks to all for the information. I changed the pump after it failed this weekend with minimal effort.
Cheers!:cheers:

When my water pump blew it made a loud clicking/thunking noise and I thought it was the IMS. Scary!

If you find the impeller blades have broken off, try to find all the missing pieces.
One place to look is the oil/water heat exchanger on the top of the engine. The debris will plug it. You will need 2 new pairs of "O" rings.The other place to look is in the large hoses near the w/p. If you can not match up and account for all the pieces ,check back with us for more suggestions.

You will need 4 "O" rings. 2 for oil side and 2 for water side. They are different sizes.

I have a thought on these failures. I store my vehicle most winters for some time. I am thinking I will be removing the serpentine belt during these periods - wondering if the tension exerted on the one side of the bearing is what causes some of the failure issue - Thoughts?

Steel bearings withstand 350,000 PSI and you belt may be tensioned to ~30 lbs exerting a pressure of perhaps 1000 lbs on a square inch of bearing.
No, removing the belt wont help the bearings at all.

In fact not having the belt on the engine will prevent you from starting the car up periodically, which is definitely good to help everything get some fresh lubrication throughout the winter.

You are much better off leaving the belt on and running the engine for a while (20+ minutes to allow the oil and radiator to get nice and hot) each month With the garage door wide open and your house door completely shut so you don't succumb to carbon monoxide poisoning.

High temp issues
 

Well, I spoke too soon it appears. I posted earlier about the waterpump/thermostat replacement and all of it going very well; until today. I had thought I bled the system the way it was intended as yesterday and this am the needle was solid steady between the 1 & 8 in 180. Then at 1230 today driving back from lunch the car goes up to the far side of the 0. Checked the coolant and all was in the allowable ranges but after sitting for 4 hours I was about 3/4 of a gallon low. The gauge went back to normal for a bit and then it won't stop climbing now.

Did I not bleed it enough? I've been reading as much as I possibly can to see if I need to keep bleeding and I've found very little. Some say one and done; others say run with bleeder valve open for 3 days or more.

Can any of you chime in here?
Thanks for any help as you guys & girls have some phenomenal advice.
Cheers.