repair quote
 

hey guys,
finally got my car in to my local indy mechanic for inspection, as i was getting some clutch chatter and slip. he reported back that it needs a new clutch kit, flywheel, and im going to do LN ims upgrade while its apart my factory bearing is leaking at the seal, the quote is for 3700 parts and labor. is this online with what you guys paid when you went through this common procedure? the mechanic is going to send some photos of all the old parts ill post when i get them he said 2 of the fingers on the pressure plate were cracked and the throw out bearing was pretty bad..

All of that for $3700 sounds like a pretty good deal. :cheers:

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here are some photos of the disaster sandwiched between my transmission and engine-so glad i took it in today. that ims leak doesnt look too good. 2002 S with 88,000 miles- original clutch-he said rms had been updated previously and is not leaking-he also brought to my attention the 2 fingers in the 3 oclock position on my pressure plate were cracked

Right in the ballpark. I'd say that clutch chatter saved your motor. Your IMS was at stage 4 failure.

Wow... no RMS leak.

Should I replace that RMS anyway? It's apart and the seal is cheap enough

Looks like it was already updated.
Not only that you, also have the updated case bolts.
With that said, they are already there, and the part is cheap. Replace it.

Updated case bolts? I've never read about that, can you briefly enlighten me:)

sure.
apparently these engines tend to leak from the case bolts.
it is recommended in the Bentley book, the shop manual and the LN bearing installation guide, to replace the bolts with encapsulated ones.
these are the same bolts that also come with the LN IMSB kit for the IMS cover (only longer).
the old bolts are regular hex head, the new ones are torx with sealing material on the thread.
you can view the procedure here:
Porsche 911 Carrera (996) 1999-2005 - Rear Main Seal DIY, how to replace - YouTube

i can also tell you have the updated RMS (that's why its not leaking Jager :D) since the old one has circled imprints on it, and installed almost flush with the case.

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the new RMS has rectangular imprints and seats 3mm inside the case (13mm from the tip of the crank)

thanks meir! i love this forum im learning so much-and because of this forum i bought a car i could really afford to maintain, and set aside the proper funds for such an event so there were no surprises at all.

My indie in northern CA quoted about $3000 for a similar job. Parts are roughly $1900. So your quote leaves $1800 for labor. In my neck of the woods that's about 14 hours. I'm told its a 10 hour job or less.

• Clutch kit ~ $500
• Flywheel ~ $750
• LN bearing ~ $620
• RMS ~ $20

PS: you dodged a bullet with that leaking IMSB.

Thom, are you buying the parts yourself, or it's a general quote you got from your mechanic?

When I did mine almost 3 years back, parts without flywheel were right at $1k; LN Bearing Kit ~$600, Sachs Clutch, PP, TOB $330 Ebay, RMS $20, Assorted sealants / stuff ~ $50. Here is my write-up:

PLEASE NOTE: LOCK THE CAMS

IMS, RMS, Tranny R & R Tips - 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S) - RennTech.org Forums

He got me good on the parts then I paid 900 for the flywheel and 875 for the clutch kit-but he is using oem parts

No intention to make you feel bad, just to save some $ for others.
I did the job myself, so no cost for labor.
Flywheel made in Germany by LUK - 530$ shipped.
Clutch kit made in Germany by SACHS - 330$ shipped.
Both companies are OEM. The parts I got looks exactly the same, minus the printed Porsche part number.
add 100$ for bolts, RMS, cam plugs and the "special" grease, and you end up with enough money for beer.
I spend some money on tools. But they stay.

I'm fine with the cost, especially since I most likely just saved my engine from going boom, and the peace of mind and enjoyment I will now have with the car.

My numbers reflect what Pelican offers the parts for.

There can be huge differences in price between between OEM parts and OEM parts with Porsche stamped on the box. The most outrageous example I've seen is the AC housing including the evaporator: OEM is about $625; OEM from Porsche is between $1300 and $1800 depending on what dealershp you're talking to.

So it not a big surprise that your indie quoted $3700 if he's charging you top dollar for parts.

Give the mechanics a break! They need to make a buck or two same as we all have to.

If you were self employed you would try to make as much as you can, right? Same for "stealerships", they have a so much high overhead and our German friends tell them in detail what they can do and what not, including to invest a lot of money into building upgrades etc.

Having said that above quote is fair. Live and let live.

I was quoted $4400 for the much the same thing here in Canada. We pay more for everything here. I even got the manager's okay to check on work while it is being done at the indy shop.....

I think the quote was fair. :)Mind u have not had it done yet. Delaying the inevitable.

I second the "Replace It" it's easy to do and good preventative maintenance.

Thanks guys! Feeling good about the decision I made not to wait any longer for some reason I was thinking my ims would be fine, I thought wrong-way wrong!

Good catch! Hate to see it go bad.

+1 on that. Didn't have any intention disrespecting the mechanics among us.
Just like most of the guys here, I think oc was fairly Quoted.
Was under the impression Thom is buying the parts himself.

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shiny new parts

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nice.
i always like to see new parts :D
you gonna love your car even more with the new clutch on.
i almost made a hole in the floor, when i pressed the clutch pedal for the first time.

Do let us know the condition of the old bearing. I see that the IMS cover is leaking, as much as others suggest that it's a definite IMS failure, the only thing that's definite from your photos is IMS cover failure...keep us posted!

Thanks!

Will do, picking it up tomorrow morning I'm interested in the condition of the bearing too

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My mechanic just sent me these photos-without speaking to him I'm assuming the first two are of the original bearing and the third is of the new one installed.

Well, the bearing looks intact.
Once you have it in your hand, you will be able to check for play.

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One last picture as it goes back together

Got my car and old parts back. I can't even describe the difference it's like a brand new car to me-I haven't broken the old bearing open but there is a lot of play in the center shaft and it sounds like a bag of marbles if I shake it

Looks like you dodged a bullet on the IMSB. How many miles on it?

88,000 I bought it a year ago with 82,000 miles-

There goes the theory of "high miles, the Bering is fine".
Happy for you that you cought it on time.
A question that I always wanted to ask.
Did you hear any nois coming from the engine, that now is gone?
And did you get a chance to read the cam deviation values before the retrofit?

Did not get any cam deviation info, but a big difference I have noticed-before when I would turn the car off I would get a definite shake down chain sounding rattle, that sound is completely gone now..like others that I have read about I had no start up rattle at all just when I shut it
Off