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Old 10-07-2005, 04:24 PM   #1
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How to do an oil-change on 99 Boxster?

How do I perform an oil-change on 99 Boxster? I ended up with a $300 service bill the last time. Please advice and thanks in advance.

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Old 10-07-2005, 05:38 PM   #2
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http://www.theschillings.com Click on the Boxster then Maintenance DIY. I don't have the torque values for the drain plug or the filter can so if somebody has them please let me know so I can add them.

When you do the oil change, you should also check the joints on in the convertible top and lube them with white lithium grease (use a Q-tip to apply the grease).
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Old 10-07-2005, 07:10 PM   #3
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Thanks for that.. I am doinf mine in the next few weeks and would have forgotten about the oil cooler

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Old 10-08-2005, 04:28 PM   #4
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I was on the phone the other day with a fellow box owner and he mentioned lubricating the top linkage as well. I didn't see anything about this in the service book. Is this a must for trouble free top operation? You would think the top would have self-lubricating bushings or something because all of them don't seem easily accessable.
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Old 10-08-2005, 06:26 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam
I was on the phone the other day with a fellow box owner and he mentioned lubricating the top linkage as well. I didn't see anything about this in the service book. Is this a must for trouble free top operation? You would think the top would have self-lubricating bushings or something because all of them don't seem easily accessable.
It's a "just in case". I always lube the joints in the top, the slider for the rear cover (aka batwing), the joints in the rear cover and the other visible moving parts. That was what my dealer said made my $300 oil change worth the extra $$$ and the top has been trouble free so far at 68k miles.
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Old 10-09-2005, 10:17 AM   #6
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Is it really necassary to drain the oil cooler during a oil change?
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Old 10-09-2005, 02:39 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blinkwatt
Is it really necassary to drain the oil cooler during a oil change?
I don't think it's required, but I like starting with all new oil each change so there's a true clean starting part.

Btw, just updated my site with pics for the oil change with the oil cooler.
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Last edited by deliriousga; 10-09-2005 at 03:04 PM.
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Old 10-09-2005, 03:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deliriousga
It's a "just in case". I always lube the joints in the top, the slider for the rear cover (aka batwing), the joints in the rear cover and the other visible moving parts. That was what my dealer said made my $300 oil change worth the extra $$$ and the top has been trouble free so far at 68k miles.
Could you please share with us what lubricant you use on the top joints and rear cover, and photos of where they get applied, if possible.

Thanks, appreciate your advice and assistance!
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Old 10-09-2005, 03:15 PM   #9
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Thank you all!

Thanks all for the advice!
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Old 10-10-2005, 06:33 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grease
Could you please share with us what lubricant you use on the top joints and rear cover, and photos of where they get applied, if possible.

Thanks, appreciate your advice and assistance!
I will try to get some photos this weekend of the lubrication points and post them on my website and here. I'm fixing my clutch in the 928 so that's taking precedence right now (tired of driving the Intrepid ). Hopefully I will have that finished in the next few days (parts to arrive tomorrow ) so I can do some nuisance fix-it on the Boxster over the weekend and take some pics.

For the lubricant, I use white lithium paste on all of the metal joints. A Q-tip is my applicator. I use plumber's grease (available at Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.) where the plastic parts meet. Using the plumber's grease on the plastic joint areas has stopped the cracking sounds in the top. Plumber's grease is safe for plastic and I don't think white lithium is so that's why I use two different greases.

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