986 S problem at idle, engine won't rev and shakes, battery disconnected

[Meir]

Originally Posted by Gorthaur

Hi Meir and thanks for asking.

Unfortunately, I've not checked the cluster yet, I'm going to work on it on sunday.

I'll surely let you all know.

I know it would sound like a weird coincidence, but what about bad fuel? A few days before the cluster job I put 30 liters in...

WOW!
that changes the whole picture.
based on your sound clip, it could defiantly be the cause.
start with checking the cluster (easiest step).
if you still have a problem replace the fuel, and fuel filter.
this way or the other, i hope its one of the two. (because it a cheap fix ).
good luck my friend.

[Gorthaur]

Originally Posted by Meir

WOW!
that changes the whole picture.
based on your sound clip, it could defiantly be the cause.
start with checking the cluster (easiest step).
if you still have a problem replace the fuel, and fuel filter.
this way or the other, i hope its one of the two. (because it a cheap fix ).
good luck my friend.

Dear Meir, when someone on a board asks for news and he's not the one who started the thread, it means the board has really fulfilled its purpose. I really look forward to be solving this issue and reporting back to you as soon as possible! By the way, how many liters do you suggest to put in?

[Meir]

Originally Posted by Gorthaur

Dear Meir, when someone on a board asks for news and he's not the one who started the thread, it means the board has really fulfilled its purpose. I really look forward to be solving this issue and reporting back to you as soon as possible! By the way, how many liters do you suggest to put in?

if to be honest, i never had to deal with something like that.
my common sense say, its not about how much you will put back in, but how much you will be able to take out.
assuming bad fuel is the issue, you would like to take out as much as you can.
hope this tread to help you out:
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/37968-drain-gas-tank.html
i think 10 liters will be enough to get you started.
keep the "old" fuel until you are sure it is bad. especially with the gas prices in Europe

as for the forum.
you will find a lot of great guys here willing to help. in the year and a half i learned so much from this forum, then i could learn anywhere ells. mostly about cars, but not only (anyone mentioned JD ? )
like others, i believe helping another member, is basically helping myself.
could be in the future, i will encounter the same problems my self, and your experiences can save me a lot of time and money.
you cannot imagine how much money, time, and most important -aggravation, i saved myself just buy learning from others mistakes and experiences.

[Gorthaur]

Thinking again about your statement:

Originally Posted by Meir

WOW!
that changes the whole picture.
based on your sound clip, it could defiantly be the cause.

there's one missing point... how the hell she ran fine after the mechanic did "something fine" to her? Remember I drove it for 30 minutes and everything was perfectly ok. Then on the very next restart, the problems got back again... If it were for dirty fuel or water in it, it should not have ran fine, not once. Am I wrong?

The only thing I can think of - dealing with the bad fuel explanation - is that while the car is sitting what's wrong in the fuel tank definetely goes deeper, but fuel should ALWAYS come from the deepest point of the tank...

still a mistery to me... hope to shed some light on the matter.

[Meir]

Originally Posted by Gorthaur

Thinking again about your statement:



there's one missing point... how the hell she ran fine after the mechanic did "something fine" to her? Remember I drove it for 30 minutes and everything was perfectly ok. Then on the very next restart, the problems got back again... If it were for dirty fuel or water in it, it should not have ran fine, not once. Am I wrong?

The only thing I can think of - dealing with the bad fuel explanation - is that while the car is sitting what's wrong in the fuel tank definetely goes deeper, but fuel should ALWAYS come from the deepest point of the tank...

still a mistery to me... hope to shed some light on the matter.

now i'm really confused.
based on your first post i was sure you did the job yourself, and problem started right after that (at first startup after job was done).
some quotes from your first post:

1."Recently I had my cluster bulbs replaced thanks to the good DIY guides found over here"
2."I previously disconnected the negative cable of the battery while leaving the ignition key on position 2 as read on the board in order to avoid the siren to scream (is this correct, BTW?)."
3."Two days later I picked the car up but the engine was really strange at idle. No fault lights on the cluster but no power at all, it hardly reached 1600 – 1900 RPM with the aircon switched off even if I floored the pedal."

my English is not perfect as well so, i could be missing something?
beside that, your theory is right. if contaminated fuel was added to the tank, you will see the symptoms right away. especially if the tank was close to empty prior to refueling.

[tony_fury]

Not certain if it's the fuel or not, without back tracking to the dash, I would not start with other probable causes.

Water is heavier than fuel and will drop to the bottom of a tank.

This whole symptom started with a simple bulb replacement, which required removing the dash.
There were three connectors that have to be seated and locked into place.
There was another member that did the stalk mod and had a loose dash connector causing weird problems.

I would go back to square one and verify the connectors on the dash are not cocked or loose.
Then see if the problem persist after that.
Then maybe suspect bad fuel or other problems.

Gorthaur:
Until you can positively eliminate the dash connectors as a cause or not, there are too many unknown variables.
It's hard to analyze without elimination.

I see you will get to that on Sunday, let us know your findings.

Thanks
T