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Old 09-26-2005, 05:43 AM   #1
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Storing car question?

Well for some of us winter is approaching. argg...

So I am storing my car, and have a question about oil? When should I change it. Before going into storage? after it comes out of storage or both?


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Old 09-26-2005, 05:58 AM   #2
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99-Boxster- MK:

I asked this question a couple weeks ago, and got some excellent advice. You should search "winter storage" and the old threads should pop-up or just look-up my old postings. Good luck!
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Old 09-26-2005, 07:10 AM   #3
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Several weeks ago, I posted the Winter Storage Procedure I have followed for nearly 30 years. Never let me down and I even still own the car I originally started using this procedure with - a 1-owner, Pristine, '71 Datsun 240Z w/ 20k mi.

Also, for your amusement and berusement, I'll post the Storage advice from the Boxster Owners Manual. Not surprisingly, there are several similarities. Hope this helps...


Here is a copy of some good Winter Storage Tips I posted a few weeks back. Hope it helps...

The best way to store any car for the winter is to do the following:

1. Change the oil just prior to storage. Oil absorbes moisture (a natural byproduct of combustion) and if old oil is left in the motor, moisture will evaporate out of the oil and condense on the engine internals causing corrosion. Also, oil becomes acidic with use and should be changed for this reason also. Change oil, start engine and run just long enough for the oil to circulate, then shut off for the season to prevent a buildup of moisture. If planning to change the tranny fluid in the coming season, it's also a good idea to do this now for basically the same reason.

2. Loosen the spark plugs and shoot either fogger oil (aerosol - NOT WD-40!) or a squirt of motor oil from a can into the sparkplug holes - about 1 tsp. This will prevent the rings from corroding and seizing to the cylinder walls over the winter. Upon initial startup in spring, oil will burn off in the 1st few minutes. I have seen piston rings seize to the Cylinder walls and tear-up on initial start-up requiring a rebuild to correct it, so I always follow this step.

3. Increase tire pressures to 50PSI. This will prevent flatspotting and leaks. The tire pressure will drop with ambient temp. Some will say to put the car on blocks, but with modern independent suspension, it's not good to leave it 'unsprung' for long periods. If you want to get really anal, fill the tires with Nitrogen. This is a Dry Gas and will prevent Dry Rot. Nitrogen can be obtained from any welding supply.

4. Store desiccants in the car. These can be purchased and laid on the floor front/back. This prevents mildew from growing and keeps leather from deteriorating due to accumulated moisture. Also, consider spraying some 'Fabreeze' in the Carpet, thisa will aid in keeping things fresh smelling. The 'Car Cacoons' currently being sold are very good for long term storage and use only a couple bucks electricity the entire season, also reduces door dings and the like. Absent this, use a quality car Cover.

5. Wash the car - don't allow pollution, Tree Sap etc. to work on the paint through the winter.

6. Remove battery from the car and put on a maintainer, preferably inside where it's warm. Be sure to allow plenty of ventilation to prevent Hydrogen Gas buildup.

7. Place the car on a sheet of Vinyl laid out on the garage floor. Make sure the vinyl extends 2 feet from any edge of the car. Garage floors seep moisture through the winter which can condense on the underside of the car, suspension, etc. causing corrosion.

8. Fill Gas Tank with Fresh, Premium fuel. A partial tank will corrode from moist air. Plus, it'll probably be cheaper than filling it next season. You can also add a stabilizer if you wish, won't harm and may help. Just be sure to run the car sufficiently that the stabilizer circulates through the entire fule system.

9. Check Anti-freeze to be sure sufficient for temps anticipated - not relevent to an A/C Flat 6.

10. Leave the car out of gear and with the Handbrake Off. If your garage is not level, place a brick under the front tire to prevent the car from rolling. Emergency Brake system and Calipers have been known to seize over a season of non-use. If they are engaged, it can be very difficult to dis-engage them (you may need to disassemble the caliper or mechanism to free it). On the other hand, if they are dis-engaged and seize, the hydraulic pressure and/or mechanical advantage of a cable/lever system is often enough to loosen them up again.

11 It may also help to place a couple of Mouse Traps strategically under the car, such as where the exhaust outlet(s), Frame openings, etc. are located. This can prevent something from Moving In to your car over the season. Mice will eat Plastic, Leather and Rubber, in addition to making a mess in general.

Now, from the Porsche Owners Manual

Storing Your Porsche

If you intend to store your Porsche for a prolonged period, please consult your Authorized Porsche dealer. The staff will be glad to advise you on the most suitable and necessary methods.

Clean your vehicle thoroughly inside and outside. Clean the engine compartment. The undercarriage and chassis components should be free of duirt and salt deposits.

Fill up the Fuel Tank.

Increase the tire pressure to 58PSI (4bar). It is not recommended to lift the vehicle, due to the possibility of corrosion on shock absorber piston shafts and potential bending of suspension components.

The vehicle should be moved approximately every four weeks to prevent flat spot on the tires.

Climate Control

The air conditioning system should be in good working condition and fully charged.

Change the Oil and Oil Filter, run the engine for several minutes.

Windshield/Headlight Washer

Check and correct antifreeze/cleaning solution level as necessary.

Electrical System

The battery should be removed from the vehicle and stored in a cool, dry, place, not on a cement floor.

When battery is disconected, the alarm system is deactivated.

Recahrge the battery every 3 months. If the battery remains in the vehicle with cables connected, it is necessary to check, remove and recharge the battery every 2-3 weeks.

Do not fast charge the battery

Follow the instructions in the battery chapter.

Vehicle Interior

The interior must be dry, especially in the area of the floor carpets. The use of drying agents (silica-Gel) is recommended in vehicles with Leather Interior and in areas with high humidity. The recommeded amount is 3 fabric bagsm of 1.1lbs. (500 grams) each placed on the floor carpets.

Windows, doors. lids and top must be closed. On cars with manual heating/ventilation systems, air flaps should be opened.

You'll need to undo several of these steps on Spring Start-up, add the battery and if stored longer than 3-4 months, it's a good idea to rotate the engine without starting it.

You can do this in one of two ways. First, if a Manual, put the car in Neutral and push it back a few feet. Then, place the gearshift in 5th gear and push the car forward, this will rotate the engine. If you run out of room, say in a garage, go to neutral again and repeat procedure so you're sure one complete revolution of the engine has occured. This will loosen any frozen engine parts (such as rings, chains, etc.), without the extreme torque of the starter motor. This torque is so great that it can tear rings or do other damage. If you have a TipS car, take a large socket on a breaker bar and turn the crankshaft pulley bolt clockwise to rotate the engine.

I live in Mpls./St. Paul - similar winter conditions. This is how I store each of my cars - Boxster, Lotus Esprit, 240Z, Formula Vee. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Last edited by MNBoxster; 08-25-2006 at 07:41 AM.
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Old 09-26-2005, 09:18 AM   #4
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Do you change the oil again in the spring? or is the oil fine?

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Old 09-26-2005, 11:56 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by 99-Boxster-MK
Do you change the oil again in the spring? or is the oil fine?


No need to change the oil in the Spring, you're good to go for the whole season or 10-15k mi. which ever comes first.

Happy Motoring!...Jim'99

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