Yeah, I noticed that. Sorry.

Any tips on how to resize them?

I even tried to delete them, but I don't see a way to do so.

I actually haven't had it up to speed yet, where I imagine it would make the most difference. It looks cool, however. :cool:

Resize the originals before you upload them. The only way to fix the above is to go in and delete the big ones posted and replace with smaller ones. I usually resize to a medium 480x800 reso. Seems to work for just about any display.

Thank you, I tried to delete the existing ones, but I cannot find a delete button. I'd be glad to delete the entire post, if I could.

Edit: Never mind, I figured out how to delete them. Thanks!

Today I drove mine to work. I went through a pothole slowly as I turned left from a stop sign and a small stone got thrown up and became lodged between the passenger side brake disk and its dust shield. It made a hell of a scraping racket until I got up to highway speed and it dislodged itself. I stopped by my indy on the way and they took a look and confirmed it was a rock that was now gone and there was no real damage. Glad it was nothing more as tonight is tech inspection for an upcoming HPDE on 5/31 and 6/1.

Oil Change time. Hard to believe I have put 5k miles on it. Time flies when you're having fun.

So this time I installed the LN filter adapter and Wix filter. Refilled with 5w40 this time around. I live in central CA and it NEVER drops to below freezing.

Just curious, what pushed you to go with the adapter? I know a lot of people do that, but I don't know why. Am I missing something?

I personally like the cartridges because they're easy to cut open and inspect for metal and stuff.

Better filtration and a higher micron rating. It will take a A LOT of oil changes for the adapter to pay for itsef, but eventually it will. And I work at a dealership, I get Wix filters really cheap. We also have a very nice filter cutter here. Plus several companies for oil analysis if I really want to go that far.

Good to know. Thanks.

It was just a great marketing scheme that got people to do this. Stick with the canister type and checking your filter as normal. You do need to change the actual canister every now and then as there is a little valve at the bottom that can go bad over time. The last time I bought the canister it was around $25 shipped and comes with a filter.

Well they raised the price a bit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Porsche-911-Boxster-Cayenne-Cayman-Oil-Filter-Cover-Cap-Genuine-99610702055/362475763649?epid=1222075725&hash=item54653d37c1:g :lAMAAOSwI7Fb2tBX

This seller has it cheaper.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911-Boxster-Cayenne-Cayman-Oil-Filter-Cover-Cap-GENUINE-996-107-020-55/371447966767?epid=1630250591&hash=item567c062c2f:g :a0IAAOSwQN5acX1s

Thank you as well.

Food for thought either way, but I'm leaning towards keeping the canister, at least for now.

Our forum sponsor sells it for <$21.50.

Unfortunately if you only buy this and don't spend $100 to get free shipping it will cost you $33.25 which is still cheaper then the first link I gave.

I bought a lightly wrecked base 99 manual 5spd last year and proceeded to repair it.
Early this year I replaced brake rotors, pads, sensors and every suspension wear component. I painted the calipers red and replaced the flexible brake lines (poseur alert).

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1558992246.jpg

Enjoyed it for a few months until one day pulling away from stoplight, it popped the driver side CV joint. I decided to go all in and fix all the "while you're in there" items since the car had no maintenance records and 120k miles. Sooooo.....new CV joints, new rear wheel bearings, new AOS, RMS, IMS bearing (LN ceramic), coolant expansion tank, spark plugs, all fluids and all filters, flywheel/clutch/TO bearing, motor and transmission mounts, water pump/Tstat, coolant hoses, serpentine belt. This car should be good for another 50k miles :cheers: In my haste to get things back together, I forgot to take pics of the new LN bearing. DOH!


new RMS; about to pull the old IMS bearing
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1558992494.jpg


Old IMS bearing
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1558992387.jpg


old water pump with metal impeller
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1558992626.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1558992906.jpg


Look how bad the motor mount was failing. You can see it split right through.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1558993108.jpg

Very common for the motor mount. Mine fell apart when I removed it. 02S with 60k. I really think, for anyone just buying a Boxster that doesn’t have record of a new motor mount, just get it done. Absolutely worth it.

Pulled the starter... to grease it up and quiet it down. Didn't have to. Pulled on the the starter gear and immediately it retracted. So... I'm chalking up the cold start sound to the chains rattling over the guides pre-oil. All that work for nothing.

On another note... was slipping on a new hose over the two inches of hose sticking from the power steering reservoir... and it broke flush with the reservoir. No sticking on a new hose. Is that a big deal? The power steering reservoir hose (coming from the top side) hasn't been leaking. It had a kink that would have prevented any overflow from dribbling out... I cut it off... went to slip on a new hose (over the existing remaining 2 inches) and it snapped of flush. Big deal?

Thanks.

https://pp.userapi.com/c851024/v8510...bHL7KTVoUY.jpg

And we're lighter by nearly two kilos! Yeeehaw!
With all seriousness, I STRONGLY recommend everyone to get rid of the rods for the electric roof and use it manually:
- it's FASTER (about 3 times!)
- it's elegant and silent (no loud motor buzzing)
- it's SAFE (if you had.... problems.... before - you know. Torn roof material, bent/broken roof lid, torn water trays, etc.)

The roof lid does not open or flap on bumps and/or high speed. In fact, it's shut tight under the weight of the downforce when you're cruising. The ONLY inconvenience you may experience is this: if you raise the lid after you close the doors (i.e. a passer by fuc*ing with your parked car? ouch!), the alarm will come off.
I'm feeling fantastic that I solved the roof question FOREVER.

I got a new set of tires today. Michelin Pilot Sport 4S from Costco. They currently have $70 off a set of 4 tires plus a $60 Costco gift card on top of their already low prices which also include a 5 year road hazard warranty. And they fill the tires with pure nitrogen instead of air which is only 70% nitrogen :cheers:! I've bought tires from Costco before for my other cars and they've always done a great job, but never bought tires for the Boxster from them. I was a little concerned since I just had my wheels refinished but they didn't nick them at all so I'm very happy. Total cost including NJ sales tax was $946 for the 4 18 inch tires and will be $886 when I receive my $60 Costco card in 4-6 weeks.

care to elaborate on what exactly you have done here? are you saying that the entire hood has to now be put up and down by hand, including lifting up the back hood cover metal thing?
i'm guessing its not very elegant as you say, its hardly going to be MX5 type of speed and ease to hood up and down?
or am i missing what you have done here...?

I removed all push rods, V-levers, and ball-end rods. Back lid and convertible top are now manual. The whole operation is a lot faster than with an electric motor. You unlatch the roof, get out of the car, raise the lid, lower the roof (neither of them is any heavier than a briefcase), lower the lid and that's it. 10sec maybe, and not minutes like the automatic mode. Observing the damage done to the V-rods... I can safely say this mechanism can not work well. It uses excessive force, applying it to a super fragile soft top. If it's working on your car, good - but it's only a matter of time till the electric motor breaks your roof, bringing a very costly $1000ish repair. Yes, that also usually happens... when rain starts.