Installed Porsche side stripe and painted wheels...
 

Just bought back my 2003 Boxster that I bought new from the guy I sold it to ten years ago. Planning on several mods and have a Fabspeed Maxflo muffler on the way. I'm pretty excited to have my old car back in my garage!

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Nice! Congrats on having your car back. I've often wondered what happened (and how they were treated) to cars I've previously owned...now YOU'LL know. ;)

Installed my new Rennline pedal set. They look and drive great. No comparison to stock for heel and toe.

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question for old car guy
 

Just saw your post about Rennline pedals and I've been thinking about getting them because I've been frustrated trying to bend my foot, leg, ankle, and butt to heel and tow. Are the pedals a pain to install (in my hands a screwdriver is a blunt instrument).

Larry (The Bald Eagle)

I did only the Rennline gas pedal with the side extenders and the plate underneath the pedal that lets you adjust the pedal "depth" and angle. For that, I had to cut out a paper template and drill 2 holes in the plastic gas pedal. It was pretty simple, I didn't screw it up!

Thanks for the info... going to do this!

Wow! That looks Cool and Functional!

Haven't done the Rennline set, but did a few others which I'm sure are similar......

#1 Tip - START w/ the Brake pedal. Seems counterintuitive as it's the hardest - but it has the most obstructions on back you need to compensate for - plus it's hardened steel. However, b/c of this, you want to make it your 'set the level' pedal and then the other pedals will easily align off of. FYI - he other pedals are all plastic, drill out very easily and have very few backside obstructions.

#2 When drilling the brake pedal, use a center punch to prevent any 'bit wander'. Can use for others too but not 100% necessary as it is on brake.

#3 And speaking of bits... have a couple extra on hand as the brake pedal likely will require more than one (again, it's hardened and you'll get impatient push harder on the drill and promptly snap a bit... or three - so my friend says from experience ;) )

#3 Apply Loctite blue on the thread hardware when fastening if none pre-applied. Unlikely but doubt you want them coming loose while driving :eek:

Easy DIY, just be patient lining up and drilling the brake pedal - then the other 3 will go on in a snap.

Good luck :)

If you can wait until December, Rennline always has a sale for the entire month. I think it's 15% off everything.

True. I bought mine during their 4th of July sale (be sure to put the code in before you add the item to the cart). 4th of July sale is only 10% off however.

Hi Larry, +1 on everything Burg Boxster said. In addition, my brake pedal wasn’t totally flat, it had a high spot top to bottom down the center. I applied a strip of 3m VHB automotive tape on each side of center then made sure to alternate tighting the self locking nuts. This way I was able to ensure the pedal was level and tight.

The pedals look great but the true benefit is how easy it is to now heel and toe. Night and day difference from stock. My downshifts almost sound as good as my wife’s s5 DCS gearbox :eek: Also the Rennline are not as slick as my OEMs, my foot stays were I put it.

I’ve installed a few sets of these across the years, so I had prior experience. Take your time and ensure the alignment is the way you want it. Test fit and mark the mounting holes for drilling with a silver paint pen or marks-a-lot, then test fit again. Be sure the screw has enough clearance side to side on the rear of the pedal so you can correctly install the locking nut. The Rennline brake and clutch pedals are a little larger that the bare pad plates, so try to keep both sides with the same overlap. Some people like to brace the pedals from behind to keep them from depressing during the drilling.

That’s about all I can think of. All of these installs go a little differently, even on the same model car

Is there any functional advantage, other than cosmetic, to getting the brake and clutch pedals?

Larry (the Bald Eagle)

Went to Pittsburgh cars and coffee. It was on the edge of raining all morning but still a good turnout.

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For me there definitely was. The rubber dots are grippy so your foot stays where you put it, the pedal contour more naturally matches the pedal pivot when depressing the pedal, the pedal surface area is slightly larger and the pedal shape is better. YMMV because these are subjective things.

Also, just to note that these pedals (with the accelerator extensions) may not be suitable for drivers who do not have experience with closely spaced pedals. If others drive your car, be sure to point out the pedal configuration. We don’t want any cases of ‘unintended acceleration’ :eek:

Your comments are much appreciated oldcarguy (from another oldcarguy who first learned to heel and toe on my 1960 Austin Healy Sprite).

Larry (the Bald Eagle)

A 1960 Austin Healey Sprite was my first car and the one l learned to drive a manual on in 1973! My second car was a 1960 Austin Healey 3000. I still can’t heel and toe under anything close to maximum braking! But I double clutch out of habit!

Tracked down a brake dragging problem to front, passenger side caliper sticking and pistons hanging up. Ordered up seals, dustboots, and stainless brake line kit from Zeckhausen Racing.

This weekend I drove 1.5hrs top down in the sun to go sailing in RI. Then drove back in the rain, with a stop for new wipers.

In preparation for a weekend of fun with NASA at UMC, I installed my 2nd gear detent (thanks Erik!) And my UDP (thanks pedro! ). and i drained a 1/2 qt of oil. Haha.

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+1, details please.