Looks fantastic!



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Replaced front shocks. Need to do drop links

It took more than a day but it got me through the winter
 

I bought a low mileage S and fixed it, then i restored it. :)



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....... and yes, we forgot to paint the spoiler. It's on my to do list.

Before the upgrade, etc., “fun” got to drive a 2016 GT4 yesterday. Wow! It was sooo tight like a race car. Instantly one with it except the ceramic brakes are incredibly sensitive. Just got 2002 Boxster s. Started Koni active system struts. Volgtland lowering springs. Short shift kit. Used spoiler. Fixed broken support under drivers seat. Hydraulic fluids. Sparks and coils. Blackstone analysis...hoping good results. Convertible cable. Trunk shocks. Floor mats. Badge and center cap. Still lots more but got it 82k miles $5500. Engine and tranny and body clean. Needing some luck!!.

Drove 3 hours yesterday. Been about a month+ since I last drove it and that was in the salt beds of NJ. She just runs, really well. Sadly less and less drive time.

Emerald: I believe the GT4 is basically a race car and that thing will spoil you. Nice work on the Box and keeping it on the road.. You don't need luck, just faith that the folks in Finland had a good day when your Box came down the line.

Best of luck

Do you have pic of this installed or video of it. Looks great.

not the best picture, sorry no lighted pic, I was at work.

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I hit a nice mileage number on my way home from work yesterday. I've got almost 300 of my 1,500 break-in miles in already. (I don't usually snap pictures while driving.)

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Left Turn Signal
 

Going home from work, I drove for 7 miles with my left turn signal on. Got on the on-ramp signaling left, onto the highway screaming to 80mph and then proceeded to pass 10-12 cars, when I stopped at the light I looked down and saw the green light blinking. Laughed at myself and finally turned it off.

BTDT.....multiple times! The vaunted German engineers could have equipped the directionals with a louder sound or more visible indicator.....especially in a convertible [emoji849]


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Rear Drop Links installed. Seller gave me pair of Porsche rotors and parking brake shoes. Wayne (101 projects) was right; there will be cursing. Installing the shoes are a PITA.

I have to replace my expansion tank but also doing a couple fun upgrades with a new flat bottom and thicker steering wheel and a double DIN apple play stereo.

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Please tell me about that steering wheel - where to buy, it looks great!

High 70s in Seattle the past couple days... did my first real top down drive of the year. God, I love driving my Porsche!! (2001S)

DCT Motorsport

Porsche carbon alcantara sport leather steering wheels 996 997 986 987 955 Turbo S carrera

Thanks, if I do it I will go without the flat bottom and go to Chuck W's place in Poland. I always used to think the wheel in my Boxster was fine. Being without it for 8 months and driving a BMW with the M-Sport steering wheel which is super thick has started me thinking about this.

Found that my rear spoiler only moved up about an inch. Searching the forum I found the probable cause, disassembled the "system" and got lucky. Having anticipated a lack of teeth on the two gear racks, it was nice to see only a lack of grease - it had all been squeezed to the sides of each rack. After re-lubing the racks and the cable end internal slides (the grease on the slides was gritty).everything operates smoothly again. Really easy job.

I often wondered if the rear spoiler needed some kind of maintenance.

Winter Rabbit dropped a rear brake pad so the box comes out early. Drove a kid to gymnastics with it and possibly to work tomorrow.
Forgot how drastic an alignment I had put on her. Time to start thinking about adjustable rear toe arms to bring some balance back.

I’m wondering if i can take the relay out of my 2004 Audi A4 that flashes 3 times when it is nudged and put it in the Boxster. That should fix this issue.

Anyone have a fix for this?

I bought it on ebay... search: T96 Porsche

Also if you go on the company's website they also have a swap program which is "slightly" cheaper where they sell you the original round version of the steering wheel but it is thicker. The down side is they charge you a core and you need to send them your old steering wheel after you removed it to get the core deposit refunded.

I wanted the flat bottom as I find I drive bowl legged and wanted a bit more leg room. Hopefully I will install it tomorrow. It's snowing again here tonight so no test drive.

And, you can get this wheel with colored stitching, so to match your car's color scheme.

Highly recommended!


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Had a set of Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ installed. Finished installing Joe Toth's rear spoiler.

Those look great. If I do it I will keep a round steering wheel and look into getting one recovered and made thicker with a red or yellow strip at 12 o'clock. I remember Chuck W sent his to a place called CarsDream in Poland.

Got it out of storage today. Had the battery at home on a maintainer so had to install it, took the cover off, got in, put the key in the ignition, took a deep breath and turned the key... we have ignition!!! we have a running engine for the first time since the first Saturday in November. Took it to Discount Tire and returned tire pressure to 32F / 34 R, put the top down on the first sunny, warmish day (about 50 which is warmish for this time of year) with the windows up and the heater on remembering why I love this car.
Larry (the Bald Eagle)

Well the battery in my car is now 10 years old. It is an Interstate H7 85 month warranty battery. Whenever my car is in the garage it is connected to a CTEK 3300 maintainer. As my car was in the shop for over 8 months due to my engine rebuild saga, and I figured that I was going to need a new battery, but the shop said no, it was still good. Got my car home 2 weeks ago and the CTEK maintainer had the green light on and the yellow light blinking fast, couldn't get just the solid green light. This is with the cigarette lighter attachment for the CTEK. The CTEK manual says when there is a solid green light and blinking orange light, it is either due to a bad connection or the battery can no longer be de-sulfated. The car starts right up, the batttery cranks the starter without any hesitation., but since the battery is now 10 years old I figured it must be the latter, that it now has sulfate crystals too big to de-sulfate. Before going out to buy a new battery, I thought I would try attaching the CTEK wires that bolt directly to the battery terminals to rule out a bad connection. To my surprise I've had a solid green light without a blinking orange light for a couple of days now. So I am putting off a new battery for a little longer, but I have my eye on the Bosch AGM H7 battery at Pep Boys as it looks like the best deal around right now at $150.

Good luck making them last past 15k miles... On the 986 I got only 15k, on the Audi B7 less than 23k. Conti is a better daily driver tire...

Changed plugs and the oil pressure spring, don't let them other DIY fool you, I lost about a half quart of oil changing the spring and valve...
But the plugs don't look bad for who knows how many miles. Worn out, but clean.
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I replaced the original coolant cap ages ago. Still had condensation issues on the bottom of the trunk lid. Finally got around to replacing the two o-rings on the bleeder valve. Condensation issues are gone. Thanks Pelican Parts for the the supplies. 999-707-370-40 (large) $3.00 and 999-707-371-40 (small) $1.50.

Beautiful day today, about 55 degrees and sunny. Washed the car with Optimum No-Rinse - this stuff is pretty rad, you can wash your car in the garage! Then went for my extensive drive of the year on some nice back roads.

So now I have a clean car except for mud splatters, which looks kinda cool.

Changed the oil, then installed the LN adaptor that allows use of a spin-on oil filter. Next I applied the Leatherique rejuvenator oil and the prestine cleaner to my leather seats. Wow, great stuff. Finally I changed the cabin filter and changed the engine air filter.

So she is just about ready for Spring. It's going to be a beautiful day in the Athens, GA area today. I'll take her for a ride on some back roads

New car again
 

Broke the 100k mile mark, looking forward to the next.

Cat Delete Pipes
 

Finally dropped the second set of cats. (Thanks for the pipes NewArt.) This was actually one of the easiest modifications I've done. Shot a little PB Blaster on the old bolts and they came off no problem. The fit of the new pipes was almost a drop in replacement. Now I'm just burning off the smell of the exhaust wrap and high temp paint. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1553518292.jpg

Do you know of the brand of your replacement pipes?

Any notable performance changes observed yet?

DM

Did some cleaning! Still need to paint the calipers. I swear I'll do it this year.

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Cat Delete Pipes
 

Dave, that's a great question. As an engineer I was trained to ALWAYS speak with data. Any comment I offer now needs to be taken with a grain of salt. I deleted the cats primarily for weight loss. It's the best approach to achieve performance gains. I'm a cyclist as well and strength to weight ratio is everything. These engines are well tuned from the factory so "modifying" more horsepower into them without a tune or significant engine work, well...just doesn't work well. Ergo, lose some weight.

So to finally answer your question, there are three things that I "noticed". First, the sound is definitely different. Not significant but subtle, as in deeper. Not sure why that would be??? Second, it "seems" to be a little quicker. Take this comment with caution as I could be simple mashing the pedal a little harder or my mind is probably playing tricks. Lastly, there is MUCH more room underneath the car to get the things. It was amazing how much room it opened up. Those are my thoughts for now.

I agree with that these P cars are engineered almost perfect from the factory and making them fast is cheaper and more effectively done by dropping weight.
Questions: 1. Do you have issues with passing emissions from dropping the Cats? (2) what was the purpose of wrapping the exhaust and what wrapping used?

Jgkram, that wrap job looks great, I'll have to take mine off and re-do it.

I think I forgot Dave's original question, sorry Dave. They are Top Speed pipes. I very much liked the quality of them (good welds, nice clamps, and fit almost perfectly). Ciao, I have not tested the emissions but no CEL thrown. I live in NC so emissions is not as big apparently out here as in CA. Not due for an inspection until next January but will do a follow up here then. I wrapped the exhaust because if you look at where the pipes are routed, they are very close to the axle boots. I wanted some protection for them as well as heat transfer to the rest of the engine. It would be nice to be able to attach a heat shield like the original pipes but that is beyond my skill level. The wrapping took a couple of attempts for sure. Part of it is skill from wrapping miles of bike handle bars and the rest is patience. I did cover with a high temp exhaust paint as well to help keep the wrap fibers in check and provide a little "environmental" (i.e. water) resistance. I purchased two, 2" wide 15 ft. long Lava wraps from Summit Racing for a total of $35. I used stainless steel hose type clamps to secure.

I have the Top Speed pipes as well. There shouldn’t be any problem with passing emissions, I’ve had them for years with no problems. The weight loss plus a bit more free flow makes a little bit of difference.