![]() |
$59 short shift kit - looking for reviews
In the "bang for the buck" thread a few of you mentioned that you opted for the $59'ish short shift kit. I've been in the market as mine in my MY2000 base model has significant slop in it now so the time has come to go with something aftermarket. I tried to get interest by posting in the WTB area with no avail. So the question is to those who have purchase this kit.. "how happy are you with it"? If you have a B&M good for you, no need to justify why you spent the extra $$. There doesn't seem to be a big visual difference between the two so let's hear from those with this knock-off please thanks
Cheers, Steve |
Is there a link to this $59 kit?
|
I've got one from forum sponsor Top Speed Pro-1 and it's just fantastic.
|
Hi Steve.
I was one of the guys posting on the other thread, the recommendation for the Top Speed (AKA 59$) short shifter. I couldn’t see any justification for spending so much more $ over a similar product, that dose the same thing. I assume the other more expensive products are made from superior materials that will last longer. The TS shifter is very well machined, and fits perfectly to the original assembly, and i enjoy it very much. Maybe in 10 years I will replace it :D Just to be clear, when I had to replace the water pump, it was important for me to use the original pump (Porsche OEM) with the best gasket available and also replaced all bolts (just to be safe). So I’m not the cheep dude trying to save a buck on his car, but It doesn’t make any sense (at least to me) to spend so much money, to get so little (if at all) difference. Another good example is the FabSpeed cat delete pips that goes for 500$ :eek:, it is a ridicules price to pay for two pieces of bended pipes. And I don’t care how “high quality” the stainless still is. I got the ones for 160, and will replace them in 10-15 years if needed which i doubt. |
Got mine from Top Speed aswell. IMO it's a better deal than the B&M shifter; as it's $200 less. I think the only difference between the two shifters is brand name. They are both made out of high quality aluminum, so no fear of anything here.
Now- how happy am I with it? Very! The shift is crisp and well defined; my complaint with the stock shifter was sometimes I didn't know it were fully engaged and it was so long shifting from 4th to 5th. Such problems are eliminated in installing a short shift kit. The aftermarket short shift kit is perfect; my only small complaint is that is moves the stick to the left at a tilt so it looks less OEM but it is more comfortable that way. I suggest you park the car in reverse or 5th gear so the stick is perfectly centered in boot. (Not a flaw- just close to driver) |
Quote:
|
There's a lot of double branding that goes on with regard to short shifter kits. In fact, a majority of the top "tuners" that offer them, simply rebadge either a Schnell or a B&M and tack on huge prices . When I first started doing mods to my vehicle, the uber tuner 9FF tried to sell me their short shifter for something like $500. As it turned out, it was nothing more than a Schnell with some "Das Gucci" knob and logo on it .
|
Quote:
|
How has the installation been for people? Any DIY with pictures? What's the best brand that's out there? Anything Porsche offers exclusively for the 986?
|
Quote:
Instructions: http://bmracing.com/wp-bnmcont/uploads/45135.pdf Pelican Technical Article: Installing a Boxster Short Shift Kit (SSK) and Replacing Boxster Shift Bushings - 986 / 987 All brands I daresay are the same. Prices however, are not. You can find a short shift kit for $60, and the same one with a logo on it for $250+. Porsche does offer an exclusive OEM kit, and that is $300+. Hope that helped!;) |
Quote:
:cheers: |
Thanks guys, I went ahead and took the plunge.
For those wondering where it is, here you go... If there is a board issue with my posting this I'll take it down or wil rely on admin to do so. Thanks to all those who responded. |
I've had the TP shifter in my
car for about 3.5 years now. In the beginning it was very mechanical and "notchy" which I was fine with. The throws were noticeably shorter. It has over the past year gotten really sloppy with alot of side to side movement. I wound up having to rig some plastic shims to fill the gaps in the shift linkage which were causing the wobbling. That helped alot but it seems the part it three fold....some of the slop is in a slight gap between the shift lever and where it mounts to the short shifter base (bolt goes through it)....some of the slop is where the pivot ball mounts inside the square assembly the connects to the shift linkage....and some of the slop is in the shift linkage cable themselves as they can move slightly side to side. FWIW I think personally the B&M is pretty much the same shifter and would not spend the money to purchase one.
|
I just did mine last weekend. I bought it off ebay for 69 bucks. Looks just like the B & M. I used the pelican parts diagram and it went in no problem.
|
OK, so which way should the shift lever tilt, towards driver or passenger, to have it centered in the cage while driving?
|
It should be tilted towards the driver. I think you can unscrew the bolts to flip around the metal pole/stick but I prefer it tilted towards me. More comfortable IMO.
|
just done mine
Bought mine from ebay (Top Speed). It already had the tilt toward the driver (LHD). Installation was a breeze. Took about 2 hours (i'm guessing could be done quicker).
Couple of points (for anyone planning to do it themselves). Check the type of gear knob you have. Mine was the type you just pull off. It's easier to do when it's still in the car before you remove the bolts that secure the housing. I did mine after and it was a little tricky (had to clamp in a vice). It's easier to snap the old bushing clips with a screwdriver. The utility knife part is not easy. I have a nice gash in my hand to proove it! I took it for a quick spin. Amazing difference. Glad I did the upgrade :-) |
Top Speed short shifter. Love it.
|
I just looked at Top Speeds web site and it appears they don't have theses shifters now. Their Ebay listing shows the same. I did look through Ebay and there are others with these shifters at similar prices. But, I like using vendors recommended by forum members.
These $59 units look like the B&M shifters, so I'm going to order one soon. |
Top Speed SSk is the way to go!
I did mine a couple months ago. Got a great price! Installation was simple but time-consuming. Take my word for it: MAKE SURE YOU MARK THE CABLES BEFORE YOU TAKE THE FACTORY SHIFTER OFF!! I marked mine in the wrong place so it was like not having it marked. I struggled by having to take everything out, put the cables at 100% rest (or in the middle) and start again. Test it BEFORE you start the car and go. Once you do start the car, engage the car in ALL gears, let clutch out to "biting point" to ensure all gears are good! It DID TAKE SOME TIME TO GET USED TO "TIGHT" GEARS. So give yourself a week. You will not look back. Even I wondered how I would ever get used to it….now I could not think of getting a Box and NOT ADDING IT, especially for $59! It DOES IMPROVE your gears shifting times, or times between gears without the engine engaged. In other words, IT IS MUCH QUICKER - LIKE TWICE AS FAST! Great upgrade….Top Speed's price makes it a no-brainer. Do it, if you have not already, and you will thank me later. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1349189576.jpg Think about this too. It is a Shifter Linkage and should be considered a complimentary upgrade to the SSK - didn't say it was FREE! It costs $45 OUCH! PM me if you need the supplier. It takes some of the SLOP out of the shifter cables and ensures the "cheap Factory plastic piece" will not give out when you need it most. It is made of Billet Aluminum and will further "refine" your SSK. It secures tightly around shifter cable. Most track guys do this mod because a blown shifter CAN RUIN your day! Here's a pic…. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1349189782.jpg |
Top Speed doesn't list their Short Shifter any longer..
|
They have it on Ebay now.
@Homeboy981, Mine are a little tight and I tried to loosen the side nuts and got some relief. Can you please explain how you made the adjustments, why and the resulting effect? I'm sure quite a few would find it useful including me. For me at least I'm not sure adjusting what does what to the mechanisms actually. :o |
Quote:
GREASE!!! The thing needs lots of grease in the right places BEFORE you install it and BEFORE it is torqued down. In other words, take it out (if you have not done it), loosen the bolts on the sides and the top and bottom. Poly Moly was what I had at hand. Grease it up, tighten hand tight OR LESS and wipe of all grease. Then, torque down the shifter nut using (?? wrench) on the sides so that it is "just right" (not too tight but not too loose either). Not sure of the ft/lbs needed. That will REMOVE side-to side slop. To relieve the "slop" on the ends (or more precisely at the end of your shift throw) you will tighten that down with an allen wrench AFTER you installed in it the shifter console. Again, I do NOT know the torque but it just enough. You will be able to tell how tight it is as more grease is replaced by tightening it down. It is plastic on the console so DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN. Having said that, it DOES require you to ensure the SSK is "bedded" by trying to physically "rock" the shifter after you tightened it. Rock it a little more and re-tighten. One other thing too…I installed the cable end out of billet Aluminum (see previous pic) and it "hits" the underside of the shifter console lightly when I put in reverse. DOES NOT EFFECT SHIFTING…but this will depend on your cable length. AND the Cable End Piece DOES NOT HAVE ANY SLOP IN IT WHEREAS THE STOCK PLASTIC PIECE THAT GOES ON THE END OF THE SHIFTER THAT CONNECTS THE FORWARD GEARS HAS A LOT OF "GIVE" IN IT! The plastic piece is junk…the replacement is almost the cost of the SSK. To me it is worth the price paid. And I KNOW the WHOLE SHIFTER IS SOLID NOW! Mine is rock-solid but is not too tight. If that makes any sense. Hope that helps! |
Thanks. I think I'll have to add some grease. Console is out for painting so would be the right time to do what you have described. :cheers:
|
That is when I did mine. There is NO HURRY! That console takes AT LEAST a week to cure, because it is plastic or something like that.
If you still feel shifting is the least bit sloppy, it may be due to the Shifter Linkage, Schnell makes the ones I found, they seem to be the least expensive, here's the link: Boxster 996 Shifter Linkage Upgrade By Schnell: Shifter Pedal Assembly & Shifter Assembly Related Happy Shifting! :D |
Quote:
|
do not use this product.
the small Allen screws that supposed to attach it to the cable, are a joke. the inner diameter of the part, is not even close to the size of the cable. in my case the end of the cable was plastic, so adding the part ruin the thread. it is almost impossible to adjust after installed. i'm replacing my transmission cables this week, putting back the plastic part that was perfectly good when removed. ill replace it in 10 years if needed. that was one of the most stupid things i did on my car, "while i was in there" doing the short shiftier. homeboy, do you have it installed in your car? |
Quote:
before you throw those away would you mind sending them to me? i'll cover shipping, etc. i'd like to look at them and see what can be done to make them actually work. no wonky allen screws. is the boxster shifter cable actually cable or is it flexible rod? thanks. brad |
Quote:
i will ship it to you as soon as i get them of the car. it is not that complicated to build a nice sifter linkage. the only thing they needed to do, is to make the hole in the same size of the shiftier cable rod, withe matching thread. in that case you will only have to screw it on, instead using the Allen screws. the cable it self is flexible, and at is end, it has metal rod with plastic tread. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1349301459.jpg the hole in the linkage was too small to go over the plastic tread, and too big when the plastic part was shaved. maybe it will work fine with the "all metal" version of the cable. in the replacement cable i have, the tread is part of the rod, and made of metal. on top of that, the socket it self (i don't have another word to describe the part in the linkage that hose the sifter ball) is very stiff, and you can feel it when moving the shiftier. once mounted, it is very hard to remove for fine tuning of the shiftier. PM me your address, and i let you know the shipping costs by the end of the week. hope to start working on it today. |
Quote:
1). If you place the linkage OVER the plastic and use the allen bolts to "lock down" on the cable - THERE IS NO WAY IT CAN MOVE. I took it a step further and added BLUE LOCTITE to the Allen bolts BEFORE I installed it. Thought I was just being prudent. Apparently that was the difference between success for me and failure on your end. But PM me and I can give some other "tricks" to get you shifting again. I LOVE the shifting in my car. Will re-check that piece - just to be certain, again. Have checked it twice (when I was re-doing console) and it was STILL SOLIDLY IN PLACE AND SECURE AS IF IT WERE FROM THE FACTORY - WITHOUT ANY SLOP! Good luck! |
@Meir,
One other thing is that the linkage DOES HAVE AN ADJUSTMENT (once OVER the threads) of about 2" of adjustment to the cable length using the threaded end piece. It has a lock nut - which I hit with Blue Loctite too! I DID NOT have to shave bits off the Shifter Cable, just hit with a little WD! My shifter, with the TS Short Shift Kit AND LINKAGE is TIGHT! No Play in ANY of it. Doubtful that could EVER BE SAID about the Factory plastic. Sounds like you know that. Got pic of YOUR DESIGN? |
Didn't see one on ebay? Anyone with direct links? I'd love to pick up a sts for the box!
|
Quote:
|
The GT2 / GT3 parts are manufactured out of sintered alloy instead of plastic...
You can buy them as a direct replacement for the standard 986 / 987 part - but at a cost. |
This should settle any concerns on the issue of short shifters.
FVD Brombacher Online Shop - FVD424040 - Multi Adjustable Short Throw Shifter for 996, 986, 997 and 987 (all models) 99'-2012 - INTERIOR |
Quote:
yes, i am ewer of the adjustment screw. what i'm saying is you cannot adjust it when the linkage is connected to the cable on one side, and to the shifter on the other. one of them needs to be connected. it is very hard to disconnect the linkage from the shifter, and messing with the Allen screws was a nightmare. don't get me wrong, i got it to work, and i'm driving the car almost a year now with that setup. (ill post some pics of the design soon) i just think i can get better results with the OEM linkage, but will see about that. BTW, once i decided i want to go back, i needed new shifter cables (destroyed the plastic tread on the original cable). i found a set on eBay for 40$. now check this out...the cable i got from eBay is identical to mine, except the fact the tread at the end of the cable is made of metal (i will post a pic of that too). |
Brad, i replied to your PM.
by the way from all the talking about the linkage, i forgot to mention that the SS kit is awesome. only regrets i have, is not installing it sooner. |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
and the shipping is free :dance: |
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:14 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website