99 vs 00 and their Values

[pothole]

Originally Posted by BerneseMtnDog

I think the 2.5 L engine generally had more problems with it so I'd keep looking for a 2.7L if you want a base car.

The only problem I know of that was unique to the 2.5 was the porous block issue. Any car running today with 50k+ on the clock almost definitely won't have that problem.

I'd say the early 2.5 and 2.7 lumps are about as solid as these engines get. Relatively low power and unstressed.

Re the 2.5 v 2.7 performance, there's very, very little in it. The main reason to go for a 2.7 is because you may end up with a slightly fresher car. But as someone mentioned above, I'd be choosing based on condition. I'd take a pin sharp 2.5 over a slightly tired 2.7 any day. If you can find a great 2.7, then you're really winning.

I'd also say a PPI is pretty pointless on these cars, assuming you generally know what you are doing when buying cars in general. It won't tell you if the IMS is about to go or if one of the heads is going to crack three months down the road.

[fivepointnine]

Originally Posted by pothole

The only problem I know of that was unique to the 2.5 was the porous block issue. Any car running today with 50k+ on the clock almost definitely won't have that problem.

I'd say the early 2.5 and 2.7 lumps are about as solid as these engines get. Relatively low power and unstressed.

Re the 2.5 v 2.7 performance, there's very, very little in it. The main reason to go for a 2.7 is because you may end up with a slightly fresher car. But as someone mentioned above, I'd be choosing based on condition. I'd take a pin sharp 2.5 over a slightly tired 2.7 any day. If you can find a great 2.7, then you're really winning.

I'd also say a PPI is pretty pointless on these cars, assuming you generally know what you are doing when buying cars in general. It won't tell you if the IMS is about to go or if one of the heads is going to crack three months down the road.

I agree with the PPI you pointed out, if you educate yourself on what to look for and what goes wrong you can take the time and decide for yourself.

drive several so you know what is "normal" and not, I drove about 5 of them before settling on mine.

[Ghostrider 310]

I skipped the PPI after talking to my friend of more than thirty years, a direct manufacturer's representative. A PPI is only as good as the mechanic doing it, if a selling dealer says they did one it means very little and is as variable as dealer service in general. The mileage you're shopping in PPI money can be used as preventative maintenance on what you already know should be replaced at 100K. Everything else on that car has 100K on it, springs, shocks, depending on how fussy you are making the car feel 100% might cost more than reaching up a little higher on the front end and paying a bit more monthly.

[recycledsixtie]

Yes Speaklow all the other posters make sense. I had a PPI done on my 2001 Boxster Base as I did not know much about P cars. Also check before u start the engine, turn the ignition on to illuminate all the lites on the dash. Make sure they all illuminate especially the check engine lite. Any significant burned out bulbs, then I would walk. Make sure you drive lots of Boxsters with different trim levels. Is PSM significant for you? How about leather seats? Mine is very basic, I think it has vinyl seats, no remote key entry and no psm. Yes the Boxster I bought had all the service history from the previous two owners. The PPI showed minor oil leak at rear of the engine and I got $2k off the asking price for that. Look at as many as u can and drive as many too. I bought the 2.7 litre for a bit more power. It was adequate but I am sure the 2.5 is good too. There should be lots out there. Take your time looking and enjoy!

[Perfectlap]

Originally Posted by Ghostrider 310

A PPI is only as good as the mechanic doing it

Very true but the PPI is hardly a good indicator of what you would most likely face.
as Don Rumsfeld said:

There are known knowns; there are things we know we know.

We also know there are known unknowns; what we don't have answers for.

But there are also unknown unknowns - things we don't have questions or answers for yet.




I would budget a lot more than the standard $2K a year for a 2.5 or high mileage car. If the car was driven in or will be driven in cold weather than I'd say $3,500 a year wouldn't be out of the question. Virtually all of the Porsches I've heard of having low history of needed repairs were cars from Southern California or one of those that was repatriated to a cold weather state as garage queen -- a car not purchased for daily, year round driving. Winters and rough roads are very harsh on finely-tuned sports cars.
There really is no such thing as a $10K Porsche no matter the year or mileage. You could easily have two or three simultaneous repairs that account for 20% of the purchase price. Cost of repairs do not scale down with the lower price of entry.

[ProjectM96]

I have driven the 98' 2.5 and bought my 00' 2.7 in October 2010 for $9700 with 77,000 miles. Only changed water pump and a few light bulbs and a tie rod so far. Less than $800 in repairs total.

There is a pretty BIG difference in top speed and acceleration. But in normal every day driving, they pretty much feel the same and sound the same.

[Perfectlap]

Originally Posted by ProjectM96

I have driven the 98' 2.5 and bought my 00' 2.7 in October 2010 for $9700 with 77,000 miles. Only changed water pump and a few light bulbs and a tie rod so far. Less than $800 in repairs total.

There is a pretty BIG difference in top speed and acceleration. But in normal every day driving, they pretty much feel the same and sound the same.

To the OP, this is handy in merging with traffic on highway on ramps and passing mini vans packing v6 power get in front of you in the fast lane.
And under braking, acceleration is a totally different feeling. But bear in mind that the 2.5 was a much lighter car than the later Boxsters.

[thstone]

Originally Posted by Perfectlap

There really is no such thing as a $10K Porsche no matter the year or mileage. You could easily have two or three simultaneous repairs that account for 20% of the purchase price. Cost of repairs do not scale down with the lower price of entry.

+1 Very, very true. This is probably the most under-estimated aspect of buying an older Boxster.