Engine Mount & Cornering/Handling

[stateofidleness]

ouch.. good to know. I'll definitely mark it! I'm assuming you did this without a lift? the only part that has kept me from doing this so far is the "lowering the engine" requirement. maybe i'm scarred from the 914

I'm thinking i should be ok if I have the rear on ramps. I can then use my only floor jack for the engine part. where did you end up buying your mount from?

[Mark_T]

I thought this job was relatively easy, but I have a good selection of flex sockets, extensions, ratcheting wrenches, etc. access wasn't a problem. I used Pedro's DIY, which has excellent instructions and pictures. I always go to Pedro's site first as I think he has the best tutorials.

The studs usually come out with the nuts, which is no problem as long as you don't put them back in that way. You need to separate them and put the studs back in with 48 ft-lbs torque, and then install the nuts with 34 ft-lbs, otherwise they can apparently come loose. Not all DIY's make this clear.

Lowering the engine is no big deal. I used a scissor jack with a block of wood on top of it, lowered it until the engine hung free, and cranked the jack back up a couple of turns just so it was supported. I put the car, all four corners, up on jack stands to do the job - gave me about 17" clearance under the car, which was more than adequate.

I found the same surprising difference in how smooth and tight the car handled afterwards.

My thoughts on hydraulic jacks - they are for lifting only. I would never trust one to support something heavy without a jack stand or other mechanical support for any length of time.

[Ghostrider 310]

My dad had a shop for 42 years, don't trust any jacks, always use multiple stands, one of our friends had a jack drop on his chest at his shop, he was lucky to survive it. As for lowering the engine, remember it's still connected on the drive end and you are not really lowering it much at all.