New Porsche Owner - some questions - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

waynes986 · 05-04-2011, 11:27 PM

If you don't mind telling... How much for the car? You may need a new remote which will run about $300 with programming...

rdougan · 05-04-2011, 11:55 PM

@schoir

Thanks, I will post in the morning when I get the code.

@waynes986

$11k

Frodo · 05-05-2011, 03:25 AM

I won't be much help, sorry, but a couple of points:

One, if you remove the seat(s), keep in mind that if/when you disconnect the electrical harness under them your airbag check engine light will come on. Unless you have the (pricey) Durametric diagnostic tool, you'll have to go to a dealership or shop that does to reset it. (I did that, and the local dealership charged me $95 to "check airbags" and reset the CEL.) Apparently you can avoid this problem by disconnecting the battery before disconnecting the harness.

Two, yes, the clutch job will be pricier than one on pretty much ANY Japanese vehicle. AND yes, you should probably do the IMS since they'll be right there anyway. There's lots of IMS info on this forum...just Search.

waynes986 · 05-05-2011, 07:52 AM

Did you get a pre purchase inspection on the car? Sometimes the good deals cost more in the end because the cost to fix something on the Porsche is so much more expensive than on a regular make not German. The clutch and ims will probably run you close go $2500...

rdougan · 05-05-2011, 08:13 AM

Thanks for the replies.

I'll keep in mind to disconnect the battery when removing the seat.

And @waynes986, nope, I did not. But Unfortunately I can't go back on it now.. so fixing it up is the only way to go.

manolo · 05-05-2011, 08:18 AM

A cheap fix that may help some of your electrical problems is a new ignition switch. I had similar electrical gremlins that turned out to be the switch. When it goes, it causes all types of weird things in the electrical system (my low beams didnt work but highs did, windows didnt work, locks, top etc.) I bought an $11 switch and it fixed it all. Another telltale sign is that the key becomes difficult to go in/out of the ignition switch.
I'm in the East Bay and might be able to help you with the switch or loan you the tool I made, depending on my work load.

rdougan · 05-05-2011, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by manolo

A cheap fix that may help some of your electrical problems is a new ignition switch. I had similar electrical gremlins that turned out to be the switch. When it goes, it causes all types of weird things in the electrical system (my low beams didnt work but highs did, windows didnt work, locks, top etc.) I bought an $11 switch and it fixed it all. Another telltale sign is that the key becomes difficult to go in/out of the ignition switch.
I'm in the East Bay and might be able to help you with the switch or loan you the tool I made, depending on my work load.

Cool, thanks.

Does it *need* to be difficult to insert and remove the key for this to cause a problem?

stateofidleness · 05-05-2011, 07:31 PM

not necessarily. a good indicator is when you pull the key out, do you hear the "clunk" sound of the tumbler (correct word?) resetting?

the switch is cheap and easy enough to replace to mark it off the list. it causes all kinds of weird things to happen (mine was making my headlights act funny). usually the key would go in just fine, but pulling it out would "not feel right" and the clunk sound was missing. If you turn the car off and you're able to turn the key counter-clockwise and feel it "spring back", it might indicate a broken switch.