Convertible Top Inoperable

[greenerob]

Ok, so this actually happened about 3 months ago and I planned to fix it over the winter. Well, I didn't and today it is getting warm.

Here is what happened.

-I lowered my top and I heard a pretty loud pop when the top was fully lowered.
-Then I raised it and it only made it roughly half way closed.
-I manually pulled it closed and latched it.

Here is what is does now.

-The convertible top indicator light stays on.
-When I press the button, nothing happens except maybe a little (very slight) dimming of the dash lights.

What should I look for here?

1998 Boxster
Rob

[greenerob]

Update.

I just undid the latch. I pushed the button and nothing worked. I manually pushed the top as far back as I could. The motor engaged and the body raised and the top went all the way down.

Then I wanted to raise the top when I parked it. This time, only the body raised and the top didn't move.

Are there to separate motors working together?

I have searched and found that it might be a broken cable.

Any suggestions?

[schoir]

Originally Posted by greenerob

Update.

I just undid the latch. I pushed the button and nothing worked. I manually pushed the top as far back as I could. The motor engaged and the body raised and the top went all the way down.

Then I wanted to raise the top when I parked it. This time, only the body raised and the top didn't move.

Are there to separate motors working together?

I have searched and found that it might be a broken cable.

Any suggestions?

Rob:

The fact that you were getting a slight dimming of the lights means that the various conditions necessary for getting electrical power to the top are all there (parking brake pulled up with idiot light for parking brake illuminated, fuses B6 and D3 okay, one of two microswitches in the latch receptacle okay). The dimming is the result of the motor trying to spin the cables and the two transmissions, but running into greater than normal resistance. In answer to your question, there is only one electric motor, but two top transmissions.

The fact that the clamshell raised by itself the second time, with no matching movement from the canvas part of the top means that the rear, black "hydraulic" pushrods are connected to the V-levers and are intact, and that the front pushrods have either both popped off their respective steel balls, that the plastic ball cups on the ends of those pushrods have broken apart, or that the front pushrods have separated at the bolted joint, or that the steel ball on the end of each V-lever has loosened off or broken off the V-lever.

The most likely scenario (especially if your plastic ball cups are original and red) is that the ball cups have popped off or broken apart.

The loud pop that you heard needs a better description from you:
If it was a "pop", that's the plastic ball cup popping off or breaking apart;
If it was a loud "thwack" or metallic noise, it was the half-moon gear inside one (or both) of the transmissions going past the 50th tooth and being pulled sharply back by the "hydraulic" pushrod on that side. This only applies if you have a '97 to '99 and still have the "A Version" transmissions installed.

If you can move the canvas top manually, your front pushrods are disconnected or broken apart as described above.

The fact that the clamshell operates normally means that the cables are probably okay and that they are being properly driven by the electric motor (just in front of the third brake light, in the convertible top well on the rear firewall).

Take a look at Mike Focke's pages for a general idea of what the parts look like, where they are located, and how they operate, here: http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/installinga'03-'04glasstopandframeona'97
Specifically take a look at the photos at pages 17, 19 and 31 of the Part II PDF.

Regards, Maurice.

[greenerob]

Schoir,

Thanks for the details. I should be able to figure it out now.

Regarding the noise I heard. It definitely sounded more like something separating from its mount or a cable breaking. There was no metallic grinding etc.

[schoir]

Originally Posted by greenerob

Schoir,

Thanks for the details. I should be able to figure it out now.

Regarding the noise I heard. It definitely sounded more like something separating from its mount or a cable breaking. There was no metallic grinding etc.

Rob:

Keep us posted with any progress.

Regards, Maurice.

[greenerob]

Well, I found the culprit. It turned out to be the plastic ball cup joints.

I little more background was that for a long time the passenger side of the top moved very solidly while the driverside seemed a little limp.

When I got into the car I found that the driverside ball cup joint was completely broken in half. The passenger side was just off. The pop I heard must have been that coming off.

The rubber bushings on the arm at the other end from the ball cup socket are shot.

I need to find a place to get this stuff on the cheap.

Any suggestions?

[schoir]

Originally Posted by greenerob

Well, I found the culprit. It turned out to be the plastic ball cup joints.

I little more background was that for a long time the passenger side of the top moved very solidly while the driverside seemed a little limp.

When I got into the car I found that the driverside ball cup joint was completely broken in half. The passenger side was just off. The pop I heard must have been that coming off.

The rubber bushings on the arm at the other end from the ball cup socket are shot.

I need to find a place to get this stuff on the cheap.

Any suggestions?

Rob:

The top will operate as you describe with only one pushrod connected, i.e., the other side will lag behind on the way up and lurch on the way down (because it's disconnected on that side).

The rubber bushes are part number 986.561.881.00 and list for about $4.00 each. You can get the parts for a good price at Sunset, Suncoast or Pelican Parts.

Porsche does not sell the plastic ball cups separately from the pushrod assembly. That part number (same for both sides) is 986.561.279.02 and lists for about $67 each.

Some have used the pushrod assembly from a 987 with success (Part # 987.561.279.00), because it lists for about $41. IIRC, the 987 pushrod does not require a rubber bush.

If your plastic ball cups are red, you should replace both of them and keep the one that is still intact as a spare. The red ones are more brittle and less durable than the later white ones.

If you want to buy just the plastic ball cups from a guy who has them manufactured in Europe, send me a PM and I'll send you the info.

Regards, Maurice.

[greenerob]

Thanks Maurice.

I just ordered the rod and bushing from pelican.

I popped the good one back on so I am good to go until the shipment.

[schoir]

Sounds good.

See if you can mark the point where the base of the plastic ball cup ends up on the threads of the forward end of the pushrod so that you can maintain the same overall length as the original.

The overall length of the pushrod has an effect on how that side of the leading edge of the convertible top mates up with the top horizontal part of the windshield frame.

Regards, Maurice.

[Olivier]

Hello,

Not sure to whom I'm addressing this, but I have an 03 Boxster S and one day the top just stopped working. It's in the up position, I checked the fuse for the top, it seems intact. There is no sound or anything when I press the open button.

Please help,

Olivier